In Good Taste

A Mouth Party at the GRAMMYs

Suzanne Loudermilk — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 22:40:55 +0000

A taste of Baltimore will be represented at the GRAMMYs on Sunday night. Baltimore’s Mouth Party caramels will be included in the official gift bags and in the backstage gift lounge.

Lucky performers. They are delicious candies.

A Valentine Partnership

Suzanne Loudermilk — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 22:01:11 +0000

Italian or Geman cuisine? You can have both on Valentine’s Day. The new Calle’s Cucina in Charles Village and Cafe Einstein in Fells Point are teaming up to present both cuisines at Calle’s that evening.

Calle’s chef/owner Carl Vahl is a lawyer turned chef who studied cooking in Parma, Italy. Einstein’s kitchen wizard is Claudia Phillips, who prepares dishes she learned from her mother in her hometown Ulm, Germany, the birthplace of Albert Einstein—hence, her restaurant’s name.

On Tuesday, the duo will be offering a menu featuring entrees like sauerbraten with red cabbage and German spaetzle, osso buco, seafood risotto, and much more.

Desserts will include homemade Black Forest cake, panna cotta, and one of Claudia’s specialties, strawberry-caramel cake.

You may remember Claudia from the short-lived The Diner in Little Italy, where she was preparing German cuisine. A year ago, she started cooking again in a charming space on Eastern Avenue, where Teavolve was once located.

She’s already looking for a larger place with a kitchen for Cafe Einstein. Now, she makes everything with one convection oven.

Carl and Claudia often share their creations at each other’s restaurants. Carl carries Claudia’s desserts, and he occasionally provides appetizers for hers.

Calle’s is BYOB, and if you purchase your libation of choice at Charles Village Discount Liquors, across the street, you will receive a 10 percent discount, according to Calle’s website.

Sounds like there will be a good vibe at the restaurant on Valentine’s Day with Carl and Claudia running the kitchen.

Photo of one of Claudia’s desserts

Hollywood Diner remains open

Suzanne Loudermilk — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 20:35:58 +0000

The Hollywood Diner, which was used in Barry Levinson’s acclaimed film Diner, is alive and well despite reports last fall that it was closing.

I talked to Cheryl Townsend, owner of Red Springs Cafe and Catering, which is running the food operation at the diner, and she said, “We restructured and brought in a better working staff.”

They’ve added some new menu items, too, she said, but you’ll still find her signature Southern cuisine and diner favorites. The diner is now open from 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun. It’s closed on Saturdays.

And starting next month, the diner, at 400 E. Saratoga St., will have a dessert happy hour from 4-5:30 p.m. on Wednesdays.

In addition to its starring role in other movies like Tin Man and Liberty Heights, the diner has been a vocational training ground for students through the Chesapeake Center for Youth Development. The building was donated to the city by Barry Levinson after the filming of Diner.

It’s nice to know this iconic Baltimore landmark continues its storied past.

Check out Baltimore magazine senior editor Evan Serpick’s blog post about the movie Diner being named “the most influential movie of the last 30 years.”

Photo courtesy of welcometobaltimorehon.com

A peek at Heavy Seas Alehouse menu

Suzanne Loudermilk — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 18:46:59 +0000

The anticipated Heavy Seas Alehouse opened yesterday, even though the official opening isn't until next week on Feb. 15. But the restaurant is indeed ready for diners, a hostess told us.

I haven’t visited yet, but I do have a copy of the menu. It’s fancy pub fare, and I can’t wait to try it. The chef is Matt Seeber, a former executive chef at Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas.

Matt, who lives in Baltimore now, is using fresh and local ingredients and sourcing locally whenever possible.

The menu, or rather Bill of Fare as they call it, is divided into:

First Try This, with dishes from the raw bar like oysters, smoked mussels, and crab salad, and other items like beet pickled eggs, braised bacon, and charcuterie and cheese.

And Then Try This, with bigger plates like 24-hour beef short rib, roasted chicken, and a Heavy Seas Burgers. What's great is that these dishes are paired with a recommended beer. For instance, the grilled hanger steak is matched with a Loose Cannon American IPA.

With Something on the Side, with offerings ranging from traditional onion rings and fries to Brussels sprouts with smoked pancetta and caramelized onion and farrotto risotto with pork confit, Portobello, and Parmesan cheese.

And, of course, there are lots of great drinks, including bottled beer, red and white wine, cocktails, and a nice rum selection.

Read more about the restaurant in our February issue.

McCormick returns to the Harbor

Suzanne Loudermilk — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:42:27 +0000

McCormick and Company, once located in the Inner Harbor, comes back to its roots this summer with a retail shop called McCormick World of Flavors. It will be located on the first floor of the Light Street Pavilion at Harborplace.

Visitors will be able to enjoy interactive and educational displays to determine flavor profiles, origins of spices, and other activities.

There will also be a focus on cooking, baking, and grilling with McCormick products, including demonstrations by McCormick chefs and celebrity chefs.

From 1920 to 1989, the headquarters of the now Sparks-based company was located on Light Street. Many Baltimoreans will remember the vanilla, cinnamon, and nutmeg scents that permeated the downtown area.

The new McCormick shop sounds like just the boost Harborplace needs.

Photo courtesy of McCormick and Company website

Noted restaurant critic visits

Suzanne Loudermilk — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 20:35:25 +0000

John Mariani came to Baltimore for a few days and writes about his experience in the newsletter Virtual Gourmet. Mariani, a well-known columnist for Esquire and Bloomberg News, has been an author and journalist for 30 years.

Dara Bunjon shared Mariani’s thoughts on her blog Dining Dish today. I hope you’ll check out what he has to say about his visit, too.

He’s pretty upbeat about the city, though he wasn’t too impressed with most of the restaurants in Little Italy, quipping, “All the menus are the same.”

He was wowed by Aldo’s, dining room pictured, and nearby Chazz: A Bronx Original. Both restaurants have the Vitale family in common.

Of Aldo’s, Mariani writes, “Don’t take my word for it: Both Baltimore magazine and Baltimore City Paper say Aldo’s is the best Italian restaurant in the city, which means one of the best, period, an opinion I readily share.” (Nice mention of our magazine and City Paper!)

Of Chazz, he says, “Palminteri and the Vitales have got all the flavors nailed, starting with pizzas that have the perfect crust, the ideal char, the bubbles, and the good ingredients to compete with the best in the U.S.”

The national attention is great for all the restaurants in Baltimore.

New Canton restaurant

Suzanne Loudermilk — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 20:36:37 +0000

The guys at Blue Hill Tavern couldn’t resist expanding their culinary expertise. Now, the owners have opened Tavern on the Square in Canton.

The new restaurant—in the space where Fins used to be—serves “contemporary American bar cuisine with a focus on local and game-oriented dishes,” according to its Facebook page.

Co-owner Mel Carter says that type of cuisine “from a business standpoint is trending. It’s up and coming.” But he also has a personal tie.

“I grew up with it,” explains the Kingsville native. “My family was big into fishing and hunting in Maryland.”

The menu looks delicious with appetizers like duck-confit spring rolls and potted rabbit pâté, sandwiches like bison cheese steak and wild-boar burrito, and entrees, including pheasant pot pies, spaghetti and lamb meatballs, and wasabi-pea-encrusted tuna.

There are also sliders, pizzas, soups, salads, and typical bar fare like wings, chicken tenders, and burgers. Brunch will be offered in the future. The chef is Jeremy Thatcher, a former executive sous chef at Blue Hill.

The décor is modern but contemporary in the style of Blue Hill, Mell says. Be sure and check out the A. Aubrey Bodine photos on the walls. A nice Baltimore touch.

Photo courtesy of the Tavern on the Square’s Facebook page

Ready for Prime Time

Suzanne Loudermilk — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:25:22 +0000

The Boulevard Diner in Dundalk gets the Guy Fieri treatment tonight on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. The segment airs at 10 p.m.

Fieri was in town in early November to tape the show at the Boulevard Diner. A recipe for Grape Leaves is featured on the Diners website. Credit for the recipe is given to the Boulevard’s general manager Marc Tsakiris, pictured left with Fieri, who runs his family’s diner.

In a recent article in The Dundalk Eagle, Tsakiris said, “I am most proud of getting Dundalk on the map in a positive light.”

Photo courtesy of The Dundalk Eagle

Restaurants continue special deals

Suzanne Loudermilk — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 15:17:44 +0000

Once again, many restaurants are extending the special pricing of Baltimore Restaurant Week. The Black Olive and The Olive Room announced this morning they are participating in the promotion through Feb. 5.

They join a growing list, including The Prime Rib, Rusty Scupper, Da Mimmo, Vino Rosina, B&O American Brasserie, and Regi’s. Visit Baltimore, one of the promotion's sponsors, encourages diners to contact the restaurants directly about their offers.

Starting today, the Restaurant Week website is updating its list with an “e” next to the restaurants involved.

It’s a great time to enjoy a three-course dinner for $30.12 or $20.12 or a two-course lunch for $15.12.

And then comes Valentine’s Day.

Hippodrome hosts Bizarre Foods’ star

Suzanne Loudermilk — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 17:39:05 +0000

This year’s Foodie Experience at the Hippodrome on May 12 will feature Andrew Zimmern, host of the Travel Channel series Bizarre Foods.

The popular event, in its third year, will begin with a tasting event at 3 p.m. that will spread out onto Eutaw Street with fare from Baltimore restaurants and food trucks. Zimmern will take to the stage at 6 p.m.

In past years, Anthony Bourdain, Eric Rippert, and Alton Brown have made appearances at the Foodie Experience. Zimmern, who also appears on the Travel Channel’s Bizarre World, travels around the globe, exploring foods of various regions.

Tickets are $94 plus service fees and include the stage presentation and access to the pre-show Foodie Experience along with beer, wine, and soft drinks.

There will be a limited number of $250 VIP tickets that include premium orchestra seats and an exclusive post-show meet and greet with Zimmern on stage.

Tickets go on sale Jan. 29 at the Hippodrome Theatre Box Office; by phone, 410-547-SEAT or 800-551-SEAT; and online at Ticketmaster.

Help Joe Squared

Suzanne Loudermilk — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:29:32 +0000

Chef/owner Joe Edwardsen needs ideas for his menu. In return, voters get a chance to win Joe Squared gift cards. And everyone gets a $5 coupon just for voting. Not a bad deal.

In his Write Our Own Menu Contest, Joe has taken popular specials from the last several years and created an online survey. Voters pick their top five choices in these categories: pizzas, risottos, wings, soups, and potato skins.

The dishes that get the most votes will be put on the menu.

A $500 gift card will be given to the person who selects the most items that people voted to be added to the menu. Second prize is a $300 gift card; third prize, a $200 gift card; fourth, a $100 gift card; and fifth place is a $50 card.

To participate, vote on Joe Squared Power Plant Live or Joe Squared North Avenue Facebook pages.

Birches chef at new Gitan

Suzanne Loudermilk — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:47:08 +0000

A new wine bistro, Gitan Bistro Crú, opened quietly a few weeks ago in Canton with former Birches chef Brian Bruso and his wife Marnie working in the kitchen. The new restaurant serves tapas with a French and Lebanese flair and “hard to find wines,” according to Gitan’s Facebook page.

Brian and Marnie left Birches last fall after 11 years of running the restaurant. At the time, they wrote on their website, “The time has come for Brian and Marnie Bruso to embark on the next adventure of their lives.”

Looks like that time has come. I’ve left a phone message for Brian. I’ll see what else he has to say about the new place.

Photo courtesy of Facebook

Baltimore caterer pens cookbook

Suzanne Loudermilk — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 17:38:40 +0000

A self-described “eco-stylist and food enthusiast,” Kerry Dunnington has e-published Planet Kitchen Table, her second cookbook. The e-book has more than 200 user-friendly recipes for all kinds of occasions, from family meals to holiday celebrations. Bonus: See a recipe below.

Kerry, who lives in Tuscany-Canterbury, has plenty of kitchen experience as a longtime Baltimore caterer, food columnist, and recipe judge. Her first cookbook, This Book Cooks, is in its second edition.

Kerry is founder of Slow Food Baltimore’s “Eat in Season” Challenge,” and is attuned to using fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced foods. In her new cookbook, she has chapters on cold and warm garden greenery dishes for vegetarians and an entree section devoted to a pescatarian (fish, no meat) diet in addition to others on breads, desserts, and more.

The e-cookbook can be downloaded at Amazon or Smashwords for $9.99.

I can’t wait to make this soup featured in Planet Kitchen. It sounds easy and delicious.

French Onion Soup for the Time-Challenged

Yield: 4 servings

Traditional French onion soup is often prepared with stock made from beef bones, a method that is sometimes too lengthy for today’s busy schedules. Imagine brand Organic Beef Flavored Broth has an authentic beef broth flavor. The result here is a traditional, French onion soup that your guests will think you spent hours preparing. Your secret is safe with me!

Helpful to know: Imagine Organic Beef Flavored Broth can be found in health food stores and most grocery stores nationwide.

2 tablespoons butter, plus extra for buttering French bread rounds

8 cups yellow onions, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons cooking sherry

One 32-ounce container beef broth

1 teaspoon salt

Pepper to taste

In a large pot over moderate heat, melt butter; add onions and sauté for 15-20 minutes or until onions begin to brown. Add cooking sherry, beef broth, salt, and pepper to taste. Cover soup, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

4 slices day-old French bread rounds (1 round per serving bowl)

Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Gruyere or Swiss cheese, sliced to desired thickness

Spread French bread rounds with butter, top each round with grated Parmesan cheese. Toast until light brown in either a 350-degree oven or toaster oven. Preheat oven to Broil. Set ovenproof soup bowls on a parchment lined, rimmed baking sheet. Place 1 toasted round in the bottom of each bowl; ladle hot soup over round, filling nearly to the top. Lay desired number of cheese slices over soup, allowing cheese to overlap sides of bowl. Broil until cheese bubbles and is chestnut brown in spots. Watch closely, the cheese browns quickly.

Ready, set, eat: winter restaurant weeks

Suzanne Loudermilk — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 20:27:15 +0000

Baltimore County Restaurant week starts tomorrow and runs through Jan. 21. The city’s Baltimore Winter Restaurant Week kicks off Jan. 20 and continues until Jan. 29.

It’s a win-win. Restaurants lure diners with discounted prices, and diners get a chance to try new places or return to favorites. Reservations are recommended since some restaurants fill up quickly.

Dozens of county restaurants are participating—from The Milton Inn, pictured, and Linwoods to Pappas and Razorbacks. Prices for lunch and dinner vary from $10.12, $15.12, $20.12, $25.12, $30.12, and $35.12. Check out the restaurant week website for particulars.

The city list continues to grow. This year’s participants include newbies Chazz: A Bronx Original and Corner BYOB as well as stalwarts Kali’s Court and Pazo. Three-course dinners are $30.12 or $20.12. Select restaurants are offering two-course lunch menus for $15.12. The website has lots of juicy details.

Photo courtesy of The Milton Inn website

Fine dining comes to Towson

Suzanne Loudermilk — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:16:40 +0000

Executive chef Daniel Henry, formerly of The Capital Grille in Baltimore, will be offering upscale cuisine at Towson Tavern, which opened this week.

To start, the restaurant has a light-fare menu ($4-12) with items including black-truffle, sea-salt popcorn; grilled shrimp with arugula and shallot relish; and petite lamb porterhouse with Israeli couscous, caramelized red onions, feta, and black-lava sea salt. An expanded, seasonal menu will be available in the spring after a kitchen expansion, according to a press release.

Towson Tavern is owned by brothers Brian and Scott Recher, who also operate Recher Theater and the Rec Room and Patio in Towson.

I couldn’t find a website, but the restaurant’s address is 516 York Rd.

There’s a bit of history also attached to the restaurant. The name Towson Tavern is a tribute to the original establishment run by Ezekiel Towson in the 1760s. It’s believed by many to be the place that put Towson on the map as a commercial center.