S'ghetti Junction

When Eddie Dopkin first described Miss Shirley's to us about a year ago, it was to be geared as much toward carry-out as toward sit-down meals. Well, that was the idea, but French toast that good deserved to be enjoyed right away, at a table. So it made sense to move Miss Shirley's into the much larger space across the street (513 W. Cold Spring Lane, 410-889-5272) when Big Sky Bread Company moved out. And for a while, it seemed like the Sunday-morning lines had eased, though recent visits have found a 45-minute wait standard once again (weekday lunchtime, however, is easier to negotiate). Meanwhile, Dopkin quickly opened a new restaurant in the original Miss Shirley's space: S'ghetti Eddie's (410 W. Cold Spring Lane, 410-235-5999). This time, the place really is all about the carry-out: Even if you dine in, meals come in plastic to-go containers. The menu is limited mostly to subs, a few pasta dishes, and pizza. The last is probably the restaurant's best option, with interesting toppings like broccoli rabe and smoked provolone. Fans of Miss Shirley's may be disappointed in S'ghetti Eddie's more bare-bones approach, but the place does still provide one fabulous amenity: a free parking lot for patrons of both restaurants, as well as the Dopkin-owned (and recently merged) Loco Hombre/Alonso's across the street.