A Chip On the Old Block

"We still get people coming in asking what happened to Tony Cheng's," sighs our server at the recently opened El Patrón (801 N. Charles Street, 410-244-8494), which does indeed occupy the digs of that former Szechuan favorite. But people should give El Patrón a chance, if only to enjoy a free basket full of the most addictive corn chips I think I have ever tasted. We couldn't decide what made them so good—they were a little lighter, a little sweeter than usual, and still hot from the fryer. As for food, we'd skip the so-so burritos and head straight for the homey comfort of the pollo culichi, a massive serving of shredded chicken in a creamy tomatillo sauce. Or get yourself some sizzling fajitas, which come with all the fixings and then some (like deliciously soupy and pork-laden charro beans). The modern Mexican dance-club soundtrack is an odd juxtaposition to the Victorian elegance of the two dining rooms, but it mostly works. And after a couple of those delicious, limey margaritas, you'll be ready to get up and dance yourself.