Pigs and Crabs

The Crab Shanty (3410 Plum Tree Drive, Ellicott City, 410-465-9660), that long-lived crabhouse on Route 40, has moved its adjoining carryout businesses to the lot across the street to make room for a coming curbside fast-food enterprise. Housed together, its Pig Pickers (barbecue) and Sea King (seafood) carryout stores share a shiny new space with a few tables scattered across its tiled floor; a couple of picnic tables outside offer extra space for lunchtime visitors. So far, we're more fans of the crabs than the 'cue—though the latter does have a good smoky flavor, it can be a bit tough. Definitely invest in some of the barbecue-friendly sides, though—the carrot soufflé tastes like super-fluffy candied yams, and the greens are a solid choice. But whatever else you get, you have to order a dozen (at least!) of the fried corn fritters. Dusted with powdered sugar and served piping hot, they're addictive, deceptively filling morsels of pure fried joy.