The Crab Shanty (3410 Plum Tree Drive, Ellicott City, 410-465-9660), that long-lived crabhouse on Route 40, has moved its adjoining carryout businesses to the lot across the street to make room for a coming curbside fast-food enterprise. Housed together, its Pig Pickers (barbecue) and Sea King (seafood) carryout stores share a shiny new space with a few tables scattered across its tiled floor; a couple of picnic tables outside offer extra space for lunchtime visitors. So far, we're more fans of the crabs than the 'cue—though the latter does have a good smoky flavor, it can be a bit tough. Definitely invest in some of the barbecue-friendly sides, though—the carrot soufflé tastes like super-fluffy candied yams, and the greens are a solid choice. But whatever else you get, you have to order a dozen (at least!) of the fried corn fritters. Dusted with powdered sugar and served piping hot, they're addictive, deceptively filling morsels of pure fried joy.
The Crab Shanty stretches out across the street.
Issue date: August, 2007