Grapevine

Often when one reads wine descriptions, the food pairing suggestion is "delicious with grilled porterhouse" or "a natural with poached salmon." While there may be truth to such assertions, they are not, in the end, terribly helpful. I figure if a reader is engaged enough to be interested in the wine review to begin with, then he or she is already past the "big red goes with meat" phase of connoisseurship.
Moreover, such suggested pairings aren't helpful to those who eschew meat and fish. While it may be tempting to dismiss vegetarians as fringe eaters, I have found many of them to be food and wine enthusiasts in their own right. Setting aside the ethical and political baggage that always seems to fire passionate debate about the practice, there is no doubt that a lot of good food also happens to be vegetarian.
Since more of my dining companions are taking part in this way of eating, I have been compelled to shift my wine focus a bit when planning a dinner party. The huge trophy wines that are such naturals with grilled or roast beast simply are not appropriate for what is often a lighter, more subtle array of flavors. This is certainly the case with Asian fare, which often incorporates exotic spices, may be on the hot side, and may also include fruit notes. Exotic spice notes in the food are easily echoed in white wines like Colterenzio Gewürztraminer Alto Adige 2005 (Grappoli Imports, $25). Rose petal, clove, and fruit notes that lean in the pear and apple direction will marry well with spice notes like cumin and turmeric, and this white is rich enough to handle the nuts and noodles that can be found in both Thai and Chinese cooking.
Moving into the earth tones of dahl, black beans, and salty soy, a little more heft may be called for. Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2006 (A Vintner's Selection, $12) could be just the ticket. The big strapping tones that are traditionally associated with this grape echo in this blush iteration, which is very much on the dry side of rosé. It is equally at home with squash and Wednesday-night stir-fry. In fact, it must be said that rosé may be the single most versatile wine when it comes to Eastern cooking, as it marries so well with so many flavors without overpowering any of them.
To assume that all delicious vegetarian fare comes from Asia would be a tremendous oversight, though. Ratatouille, roasted tomatoes with thyme, risottos, gratins, a simple pomodoro sauce over pasta. . . . There are plenty of European staples that need not be overlooked. Often a red wine works best, especially with the bright acidity of tomato or the bass note of eggplant and mushroom.
Good-quality Beaujolais is a great choice for such foods, and Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly 2005 (Chesapeake Beverage Group, $30) is a textbook example. Cheery berry flavors akin to wild strawberry and juicy blackberry are carried by a lightly tannic frame and fresh acidity. Moreover, its pure expression of grape and of place is an appropriate counterpoint to fusion dishes.