Catering to a Dream

Before the massive sandwiches arrive, but after the Maryland crab soup with knuckle-sized crab lumps is devoured, Larry Schwartz emerges from the kitchen at Larry’s 1332 (1332 Sulphur Spring Rd., Arbutus, 443-304-2841), the cafe he opened last summer. He’s dressed charmingly casual in a worn black sweatshirt as he stops at each table, not seeking praise but instead asking what he can do better. Sorry, Larry, but we wouldn’t change a thing. With decades of local catering experience, Schwartz has finally gone into business for himself, creating a restaurant as welcoming as a living room while pushing the boundaries of local classics. Case in point is the grilled formaggio an open-face grilled cheese with caramelized onion, sun-dried tomato, a not-too-heavy layer of mozzarella cheese, and more of that amazing crab ($10.50). The weekday lunch spot is open for dinner on Thursdays.