Yoo-hoo, Tooloulou

Tooloulou’s space is humble—a tiny storefront, open kitchen, and a few tables and counters. But the ambiance is warm and inviting, and chef/co-owner Shawn Lagergren is happy to talk about his menu, which ranges from artisan pizzas and po’ boys to sandwiches like the Coca-Cola baked ham and muffuletta, a New Orleans classic. His Louisiana food leanings make sense since he hails from there. Today, he and his wife, Megan, live in Lauraville, where the store (4311 Harford Rd., 443-627-8090, http://tooloulou.com) is located. Its name Tooloulou is Cajun for crab, which fits both Lagergren’s heritage and the couple’s Baltimore home. “It’s fun to say,” Megan says. “It’s catchy.” On a recent visit, we tried the fried oyster po’ boy ($9) featuring several crunchy bivalves on a long, soft roll “dressed proper” with lettuce, tomato, spicy Cajun pickles, and Tabasco remoulade. A sign over the door says it all: Les Bon Temps. Indeed, these are good times.