Who doesn’t love a savior?
And that’s just what Anna Leventis is in regards to SoBo Cafe (6 W. Cross St., 410-752-1518). The pioneer restaurant in Federal Hill fell on hard times after more than 10 years in the neighborhood, bringing fears that its days were numbered. But Leventis—who formerly worked in information technology and health care—stepped in to rescue the beloved SoBo. She painted the walls cheery shades of orange, hung local artworks for sale, and added a contemporary twist to the menu’s comfort-food dishes with the help of executive chef Timothy Dyson. “We’ve made significant changes, though we’ve kept favorites like the pot pie and mac and cheese,” Leventis says. The list is concise with 10 entrees for dinner and a modest selection of sandwiches for lunch. I chose from the “non-sandwich” section and was impressed with the roasted chicken salad (a warm, moist breast with herbed skin, soft butter lettuce, beets, Gorgonzola, house-pickled carrots, cherry tomatoes, and house vinaigrette, $11). SoBo looks like a survivor with Leventis at the helm.