November, 25th 2009

Turkey antidote

It’s steak, of course. After all that turkey gobbling on Thursday and shopping on Black Friday, you’ll probably crave some beef. Well, Ruth’s Chris Steak House has you covered.

The chain is offering a free petite filet or New York strip with the purchase of an entrée on Friday (Nov. 27) and Saturday (Nov. 28) at participating restaurants: Baltimore, Pier 5; Baltimore, Water Street; Annapolis, and Pikesville. Reservations are advised.

In the meantime, have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

November, 25th 2009

Miss Irene's is closed, maybe another

Imagine my surprise last night when I went to meet friends at Miss Irene’s in Fells Point at 6 p.m., and the place was dark. According to a sign out front, the new place will be called Poe Boys Oyster Bar and will open in early December under new ownership and management.

It will feature local and gourmet oysters, seafood, and cocktails. It will have 18 beers on draft and late night food. There also will be a game room and billiards.

That's quite a turn around from the upscale bar and dining room that opened about a year ago. I’m going to miss the croque madame sandwich.

Also, it looks like Meridian 54 in Canton may be closed or going through a change. Its phone is temporarily disconnected.

Formerly called Red Fish, it also opened about a year ago. Its chef abruptly left after a couple of months, but the place seemed to be doing okay after that. Does anyone know anything?

11:57 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
November, 23rd 2009

Thanksgiving Day options

Having turkey angst? The Restaurant Association of Maryland has come up with a list of area restaurants offering Thanksgiving dinner. Here’s a sampling.

For a complete list, visit its website. There aren’t any Baltimore restaurants on the list, except for Todd Conner’s and its turkey-day drink specials. Please feel free to comment on ones you know about.

Tersiguel’s French Country Restaurant, Ellicott City: 11:30 a.m.-7:30 pm, reservations required. Limited a la carte menu ($29-39 for entrees) including traditional turkey dinner, $29.95 for adult entree, $15.95 for kids.

Salerno’s, Eldersburg: Full traditional Thanksgiving buffet served from 1-6 p.m. Adults, $16.99; children (3-10), $7.99. Reservations recommended.

Brewer’s Alley, Frederick: Thanksgiving Day grand buffet, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Adults, $26; kids (10 and under), $11.

Victoria Gastro Pub, Columbia: Thanksgiving Day menu served 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Butternut squash sage soup, raw oysters on the half shell, Belgian endive apple salad, Maple Lawn Farms traditional roast free range turkey, roast maple glazed with marble farms pork loin, roasted duck breast. Sides, desserts, and kids menu are also available. Prices, a la carte, $9-18.

Clyde’s of Columbia: Traditional turkey dinner, Sausage-sage stuffing, green beans, whipped potatoes, glazed sweet potatoes, turkey gravy, and cranberry sauce, and your choice of apple or pecan pie à la mode or pumpkin pie with whipped cream. Adults, $24.95; kids, $14.95.

Buddy’s Crabs & Ribs, Annapolis: Thanksgiving Day gourmet buffet, noon-7 p.m. Adults $22.95, seniors (60 plus) $21.95.

Sam’s on the Waterfront, Annapolis: three-course dinner, $55.95 per person; kids (under 12), $19.95 per person (tax and gratuity not included). Also offering a to-go Thanksgiving dinner.

Todd Conner’s, Fells Point: It’s all about the drinks. $2 Yuengling drafts, $3 Miller lite bottles, $4 house vodka drinks. Open 8 p.m.-2 a.m. Thanksgiving Day.

November, 20th 2009

A farm menu

In celebration of this year’s National Farm-City Week, the new B&O American Brasserie is offering a three-course, prix-fixe menu featuring ingredients from farms across the area. The promotion starts today (Nov. 20) through Nov. 25. (The restaurant is closed Thanksgiving Day.)

The menu was created by the restaurant’s executive chef E. Michael Reidt and is available for $38. The food pairings look exciting, and if you haven’t been to the glam city restaurant in the old B&O railroad headquarters, this would be a good time to try it.

The farm menu features:

1. Knopp Farms sweet potato soup with lobster and winter-spiced "marshmallow."
2. Duo of beef from Roseda Farms (strip loin with braised short rib) with Arnold Farms cauliflower and One Straw Farm Swiss chard.
3. Firefly Farms goat cheesecake with Reid’s Orchard apples and pear cider sorbet

Let me know if you go.

November, 20th 2009

Green Spring Station extends farmers' market

potato-photo.jpgThis is a big weekend for farmers’ markets as shoppers descend on area markets to gather their Thanksgiving ingredients in abundance. Here’s a list to find one near you. Go early and rested.

Green Spring Station in Lutherville will be one of those markets welcoming patrons from 2-5 p.m. this Saturday in the shopping center parking lot. But the good news is that it won’t shutter the market at the end of the month.

Starting in December, the market will continue from 1-3 p.m. the first and third Saturday of each month through May in the common area of the mall near Tark’s Grill. The first one will be Dec. 5.

The following vendors are confirmed so far: Albright's Farm, Alima's Zucchini Delights, Bees By The Bay, Charles Street Gourmet, Dangerously Delicious Pies, Edible Favors, Gunpowder Bison, Hawkshill Creamery, Lisa Anne's Toffee Apples, Savory Soups, Scotty's Goody's, Sweetie Pie Bath & Body Works, Tuckey's Farm, and Two Ocean's True Food.

It’ll certainly help the gray days of winter pass faster.

Photo by Suat Eman/FreeDigitalPhotos.net

November, 20th 2009

Father Leo on TV

gbm-sunday-morning.jpgFather Leo Patalinghug—Maryland’s newest cooking celeb—is scheduled to be the subject of a feature segment at 9 a.m. Sunday (Nov. 22) on CBS’s News Sunday Morning during its annual episode devoted to food.

You may remember that the St. Mary’s Seminary priest bested chef Bobby Flay in a Throwdown fajita challenge on the Food Network this summer. But Father Leo has a bigger mission besides whipping up fabulous dishes. He encourages communal meals on his website Grace Before Meals as a way to connect families and friends.

The show was taped at Renegade studios in Hunt Valley. You can read more about Father Leo in the December issue of Baltimore magazine.

Pictured, from left: Renegade president Tim Watkins, Father Leo, and CBS senior correspondent Rita Braver.

12:20 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
November, 19th 2009

Top Cheftestant Jennifer

jennifer-carroll1.pngNo major show spoilers here except to say that contestant Jennifer wowed the judges with her Quickfire challenge and made it to the final four last night. For a recap of the episode, read Max’s blog. She nails it as usual.

But my co-worker Jess Blumberg discovered something interesting yesterday about contestant Jennifer, who is the chef de cuisine at 10 Arts in Philadelphia. Jess is working on our annual Top Singles issue for February and is researching other regional magazines.

Well, it turns out, in the November 2008 issue of Philadelphia magazine, Jennifer Carroll, aka chef Jen, was named one of Philly’s top bachelorettes. In her magazine photo, she looks classy with her blond hair cascading around her shoulders and wearing a black-patterned sheath and killer heels—a little different from the weekly Jennifer we see in a ponytail, making faces, and looking frantic under pressure.

In her magazine comments, Jennifer says: Her secret talent is changing a tire faster than a man (be afraid, Toby Young) and her last meal would be eating a Krispy Kreme doughnut. We knew we liked this girl.

What’s also cute is that on the website of her restaurant 10 Arts, her bio familiarly calls her "Jenny." She’s a native Philadelphian and not that far from us. Maybe we should "adopt" her as one of ours?

Photo courtesy of Bravo TV

1:09 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
November, 18th 2009

A wine for Henry

I was getting a turkey sandwich recently at henryspassion07.jpg The Wine Merchant in Lutherville, but I was really on a search for wine—and not just any wine. I was looking for Henry’s Passion.

The story behind the wine captivated me, and I had to have a bottle or two. The wine was created in memory of 21-year-old Henry Lubke, an ’05 Boys’ Latin alum who passed away from an undetected heart condition in 2007. He was in California at the time, pursuing his love of winemaking at Chateau Felice Winery in Sonoma County. (His story is on the winery’s website.)

In his honor, the winemaker bottled two barrels of merlot that Henry and the cellar master had made. The wine sold out last year by Christmas, said Joe Ciletti, owner of The Wine Merchant. The second vintage ($17.99) is available now at several local stores. "The wine is great," Ciletti said. "It's another great blend."

The best part is that proceeds benefit the Henry George Lubke IV Scholarship Fund at Boys’ Latin. What a wonderful tribute to a young man who was following his dreams.

12:59 pm Comment Count Tags: wine
November, 12th 2009

Almost Thanksgiving

Wow, how did that happen? Two weeks from today, we’ll be gorging ourselves on turkey and all the trimmings. My sister is hosting my family’s big meal, and, of course, we’ll bring various side dishes to help out. And being native Baltimoreans, we certainly will have a big bowl of sauerkraut on the table.

Locals know they can thank our city’s German immigrants for adding fermented cabbage to our turkey meal. But I appreciated my heritage even more after reading Martha Thomas’s story about our Baltimore food tradition recently in The Washington Post. Martha is a regular contributor to Baltimore magazine. I think you’ll find her story hits home, so to speak.

It also brought back memories of me trying to serve sauerkraut to Thanksgiving dinner guests in Ohio and Florida when I was living there. To say they were shocked is an understatement. But then the Ohioans thought it was weird we ate steamed crabs. And the Floridians had no clue about using Old Bay on seafood.

I’ve been making my grandmother’s recipe for years. It’s not fancy, but my family loves it. And it’s a way to honor Grandma, who died many years ago. I hope you enjoy it.

Grandma’s sauerkraut
1 small package refrigerated sauerkraut
1 pork chop
1 apple
I onion
2 tablespoons sugar
Place sauerkraut in a large pot. Cut pork chop into fourths. Peel apple; core, seed, and cut into quarters. Peel onion and quarter. Add pork chop, apple, and onion to the pot with sauerkraut. Add enough water to see it come through the sauerkraut (that’s such a grandma kind of direction). Bring to a boil. Add sugar and stir. Cover pot and simmer for two hours. Remove apple and pork chop before serving.
Note: Sorry! I have no idea how many it serves. We always have a big crowd for Thanksgiving dinner, and everyone seems to get enough.

1:40 pm Comment Count Tags: holidays
November, 9th 2009

A response from servers

Like many others, I enjoyed reading the recent New York Times blogs on "100 Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do," especially since I’m usually on the receiving end of service.

Part one presented such dictums as "Never serve anything that looks creepy or runny or wrong" and "Never touch a customer." Part two had these admonitions: "If someone complains about the music, do something about it" and "Do not disappear."

The list is based on requisites for servers at a seafood restaurant that the writer, Bruce Buschel, is building in New York. His wait staff is going to have a lot to live up to.

I agreed with many of his "rules," though some seemed like a stretch, like this one: "If a guest goes gaga over a particular dish, get the recipe for him or her." That’s a nice thought, but have you ever seen a chef’s recipe? They make humongous amounts, not what a home cook would want anyway.

But what do I know? I asked two of our magazine interns, Johanna Anderson and Hilary Thomas, who are servers at local restaurants, what they thought about the NYT list. The women had strong opinions about the rules. Essentially, they felt that diners should remember, "Servers are people, too."

Here’s a synopsis of what they had to say:

From Johanna, who works at a bistro in Annapolis:

She agreed that many of Buschel’s comments involve common-sense practices. But she said that his list also involves elements of service that are measured subjectively or are difficult to quantify.

For instance, diners may feel their servers are "racing around the dining room as if there is a fire" (No. 71) when a waitress is simply walking quickly to the kitchen to pick up food and serve it while it is still hot.

She also said she is "irked by rules like, "Do not interrupt a conversation. For any reason." She’s been on the receiving end when she hasn’t taken an order. "If you want to talk without pausing for the first 15 minutes of your time in a restaurant, don’t snap at the server if you don’t have a martini in front of you when you take a breath."

I thought Johanna really hit home with this remark, "Don’t become a houseplant." Evidently, houseplants are guests who stay long after the check has been settled. She doesn’t mind that they linger, but she does mind when they stay after the restaurant has closed. She has to remain until her table is gone.

She also reminds us that the rules work both ways. One rule says, "Do not announce your name. No jokes, no flirting, no cuteness." She asks that diners do the same: "No making sexual innuendos. No—to men—asking me to sit on their lap, especially when your wife is sitting beside you."

From Hilary, who works at a casual restaurant in White Marsh:

She pointed out that a lot of a server’s duties are dependent on their boss or manager. For example, one of Buschel’s mandates states, "Do not take an empty plate from one guest while others are still eating the same course."

But she points out that "pre-bussing, as it is usually called, is mandated by most restaurant managers. So in some ways, a server does not really have a choice in the matter."

She also thought the rule about asking people if they had allergies was too inquisitive. "Aren’t medical problems personal." It may be embarrassing if a person has to announce the allergy to the rest of the table, though they could alert the staff beforehand.

She also wants diners to realize that she can’t always tell them if the restaurant is out of an item (Buschel’s rule: "Let the guests know the restaurant is out of something before the guests read the menu"). "It’s only possible if the kitchen lets everyone know," she pointed out.

She also had some advice for diners:

Do not order a big-price meal and then not compensate the server if the service was good. (She told me that she’s seeing more skimping in this economy. She said she gets paid a pittance per hour and has to share her tip with numerous people from runners to busboys.)

Do not complain to get a free meal or after you’ve eaten 75 percent of your meal.

Do not allow your child to make a mess and leave it there for "the help" to clean up.

But I think she summed it up best when she said:

"Do treat your server the way you want to be treated by them."

5:48 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
November, 6th 2009

Cuban products for now

Chef Marta Quintana decided to take a detour from opening Havana Road, a Cuban restaurant, in the space occupied by Grano Pasta Bar on The Avenue in Hampden. She is focusing instead on her Cuban line of products, which are available now at Whole Foods in Mt. Washington and Annapolis.

But she’s not ruling out having a restaurant at some point after she gets her commercial business established, she says. Her game plan was to get into Whole Foods; then, establish public awareness of the brand and herself as a chef. Next on the list is to work on a restaurant.

The Cuban native, who came to the U.S. when she was four and now lives in Lutherville, was inspired by her mother and grandmother’s cooking. She worked in the hospitality industry for 25 years before being laid off a year ago. She then turned to what she knows best. "I knew how to cook and entertain," she says.

Her products, which she describes as fresh, wholesome, and having no preservatives, include red beans, Cuban salsa, rice ensalada, mojo, and mojo verde. She said mojo sauce in her native country is garlicky, oniony, and citrusy. "We put it on everything. It’s like ketchup." There are more products to come.

The label on her eco-friendly containers is a photo taken by her father in 1948. It’s a reminder of family and home. But it’s the cuisine that is the bridge. "To me, food closes the gap between the two countries."

Marta will be demonstrating her products and giving cooking demos at the two Whole Foods. Check the website for dates. This weekend, she’ll be at the Mt. Washington location between 11-3 p.m.

So what’s going to happen to the Grano space, now that owner/chef Gino Troia has moved around the corner? I have a call into Gino. I’ll let you know what he says soon.

12:49 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
November, 5th 2009

AVAM restaurant menu

By now, you probably know that the American Visionary Art Museum finally has a new restaurant. It’s been a long culinary drought, but the intriguingly named Mr. Rain’s Fun House officially opened this week.

I was perplexed, though, when I checked out its website. There’s no hint as to what’s actually on the menu, which is described as "iconoclastic Americana cuisine, classic cocktails and farm to table philosophies." Huh?

So I contacted the restaurant’s general manager Perez Klebahn, who is also the beverage director, and he was kind enough to send me a working dinner menu. Here are some of the items listed:

Soup and salad: roasted beets and rutabaga with snow peas, croutons, and gorgonzola with a citrus ginger dressing ($8); coconut and galangal (okay, I had to look this up in the Food Lover’s Companion. It’s described as a rhizome with a hot, ginger-peppery flavor) with oysters ($8), and purple yam soup ($7).

Appetizers: wild mushroom terrine with blackberries and cocoa reduction ($9), crab and mango tartare ($12), and adobo ribs ($10).

Entrees: prawns and pheasant ($20), tangerine duck ($25), flat-iron steak ($24), and black-eyed pea cakes ($15).

The menu sounds as interesting as the museum. The chef is William Buszinski, formerly of Sputnik Cafe in Crownsville, which he owned with his wife Maria. She’s now the business manager at Mr. Rain’s.

The restaurant serves lunch, dinner, and Saturday and Sunday brunch. It’s open Tuesday-Sunday, and closed on Monday. There’s also no phone number on the website. The one listed on a press release is 410-244-1900.

Has anyone been there yet?

November, 4th 2009

The future of cookbooks

brandyfoodcover.JPGI’ve been thinking about cookbooks because a friend of mine just released a beautiful one this week called The Brandywine Book of Food. It has recipes, gorgeous photos, and focuses on the culinary terroir of the Brandywine River, which mostly winds its way through Pennsylvania and Delaware. I can’t wait to buy it.

But I’ve been wondering if I’m one of the few people who still treasures cookbooks. I love to read them, just for fun, even if I’m not looking for a particular recipe.

Some people say they’ve pretty much abandoned the books in favor of websites like epicurious.com. I agree that I’m also a fan of plugging in a few ingredients and, voilà, you have an instant recipe with ratings from cooks who have actually made the dish. But I still like my printed books.

Then, today, I saw an article in the New York Times titled, "Cookbooks As Edible Adventures." It concurs that cookbooks are still alive and well. In fact, there are dozens of new ones with varied approaches that will be published soon, including The Pioneer Woman Cooks by a wife and mother who lives on a cattle ranch in Oklahoma; My New Orleans, co-written by chef John Besh, who owns six restaurants in the city; and So Easy by Ellie Krieger, a nutritionist who puts delicious into healthy foods, to name just a few.

Just reading the NYT story made me start picking out which books I would like to add to my collection. But the local Brandywine cookbook by co-author Roger Morris—who has written for national food publications—particularly appeals to me because I used to live in Wilmington, DE, and I appreciate the landscape that houses such gems as Longwood Gardens, the Brandywine River Museum, and Winterthur, a duPont estate.

Check out the book or take a day trip to visit the area for yourself. My favorite restaurants, whose chefs have shared recipes for the book, include Domaine Hudson, Harry’s Seafood Grill, and Simon Pearce. But you won’t go wrong if you just go to the local Jake’s and grab a burger and shake.

12:25 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
November, 2nd 2009

Chef Bryan at Volt

I had a nice chat on the phone Friday with Bryan Voltaggio, chef/partner at bryan-voltaggio.png Volt restaurant in Frederick. Bryan is one of this season’s contestants on Top Chef. Out of 17 chefs who started on the Bravo show, only six are left, including Bryan and his brother Michael. It’s getting really hot in the kitchen now.

I’m an avid follower of the show and recently had dinner at Volt (my review will be in January’s Baltimore magazine), so I was looking forward to catching up with Bryan.

But we weren’t alone. When you schedule an interview with one of the show’s contestants, a Bravo representative is involved in a conference call to make sure you don’t pry any inside info out of the chef, like who won.

I evidently crossed the line when I asked if the finale had been shot and when it would air? A terse "No announcement has been made yet" from the mysterious Bravo voice quickly cut me short.

But Bryan, a Maryland native as is his brother, seems like a really nice guy. He’s married and has a two-year-old son. When I talked to him, he sounded like he was in or near his restaurant kitchen, so there were some interruptions, in a nice way, from Bryan as he talked to his staff, like, "No, not like that," or "save more room there," so I’ve paraphrased a lot of what he said.

Here are some of his comments. You’ll love his reflections on contestants Robin and Jennifer

Why a restaurant in Frederick? "I grew up here," he said. "I always thought at some point I would come home here." Bryan said that another plus is that Frederick County is agricultural so he is close to the seasonal, local sources he uses for ingredients. He added that when he became a Top Chef contestant, the restaurant had only been open seven months. "It was difficult to walk away" from the startup, he said.

About his brother, who is a chef de cuisine in L.A.: Bryan said it was really fun spending so much time with his younger brother Michael (both are in their early 30s) on the show even if they did have a "spat here and there." He doesn’t mind the show playing up the sibling rivalry. It’s not that usual to have two brothers in the same field, he said. "For chefs, it’s unique. You don’t usually find that."

How his Top Chef appearance has affected his restaurant: "When it opened (in 2008), it took a little while for people to trust it," Bryan said. But once Volt was discovered, it became a hit. Now, with additional publicity from the show, you have to call weeks in advance for a weekend reservation. "There’s a whole new energy here at the restaurant," the chef said.

Top Chef screenings at Volt: Bryan said his family and friends would stop by to watch the show on a TV in the restaurant’s lounge area on Wednesdays. Finally, the crowd grew so large that the restaurant sets up a screen and projector outside, weather permitting. (Sounds like fun.)

About contestant Robin: When I asked him if he felt sorry for Robin, his quick response was, "Yes and no." He said he felt bad about how some of the other contestants treated her and how a lot of people felt she shouldn’t still be on the show. "I tend not to agree," he said. "I have a lot of respect for her. She should be proud of how far she’s gotten."

But he added that they have distinctive styles, citing the recent restaurant wars challenge when they were on the same team. "I don’t see eye to eye with her when it comes to food. We’re very different." He described her food as being more homey. "I do different cooking." The food at Volt can be best described as New American cuisine.

About contestant Jennifer: In recent episodes, Jennifer, once poised and confident, has seemed on the verge of a meltdown. "Yeah," said Bryan. "She felt overwhelmed. But you go in every day and try and perform your best again. Every challenge is different."

I hope this is a spoiler: "She could bounce back," Bryan said.

How does he stay so darn calm? "As a chef, you’re always up against a new challenge in your own kitchen," he said, whether it’s a diner’s request, machinery breakdown, or supplies don’t show up. But he added that despite the outward calm, he can feel frantic inside. "I try not to show it. I try not to over do the emotions." He said it’s better for his kitchen team if he’s composed when there’s chaos in the kitchen. He’s pretty much been able to carry that over to the show.

What’s his favorite restaurant besides Volt? It's not a restaurant, it's home, he said. "I love to cook at home. I keep it more simple for my son and wife. I don’t want to make the same food" as at the restaurant, he said, adding that, at times. there are even lumpy mashed potatoes.

When I asked Bryan whether his other sibling, a sister, was a chef, he laughed and said, "No way. She’s an administrative assistant."

I guess two chefs in the family are enough. Kudos to their mom. I can’t wait to see what happens on Wednesday.

Photo courtesy of Bravo

October, 30th 2009

Southern Living picks Bel-Loc

Bel-Loc diner is number one among Southern Living magazine’s favorite diners in its November issue. It even includes a recipe from owner Bill Doxanas for rice pudding.

While the magazine recommends getting breakfast (blueberry pancakes or raisin-bread French toast) at the Towson spot on Loch Raven Boulevard near the Beltway that opened in 1964, I really like going there for lunch. You can’t beat a triple-decker turkey club served by Miss Ruthie, a hon of a waitress.

I have fond memories of the Bel-Loc anyway. I grew up going there, but I wasn’t hanging out with the morning crowd. I mostly went in the late evening for caloric-busting (or alcohol-absorbing) burgers and fries after a night of partying with friends. Those were the days.

12 issues for $18!