June, 21st 2010

Baltimore loves salads

We are in the top 25 “salad market” cities, according to Dole Fresh Vegetables. The company did an internal study and found that Baltimoreans and local residents of the rated cities eat more salad per person than their counterparts in other U.S. cities. Well, good for us!

Nearby leafy-eating cities include Philadelphia, Harrisburg, PA, and Washington, D.C. Los Angeles was named on the West Coast. But, surprisingly, no San Francisco, where the slow food movement is said to have begun, courtesy of Alice Waters. The cities were listed in alphabetical order with no numeric ranking.

Dole also developed a recipe, just for Baltimore, created by DOLE Salads and the Dole Nutrition Institute.

Baltimore Crab and Fruit Salad

1 package (6 ounces) DOLE Sweet Baby Lettuces or Spring Mix Salad Blend
2 cans (6 ounces each) lump crabmeat, drained, or 8 ounces fresh or frozen, thawed crabmeat
1 mango, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
1 kiwi, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise
1/3 cup raspberry vinaigrette salad dressing
1 firm, ripe avocado, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

Toss together salad blend, crabmeat, mango, and kiwi. Drizzle dressing over salad; toss gently to combine.

Divide salad among serving plates. Arrange slices of avocado over each serving.

Serves 3-4

Per serving: 311 calories, 16 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 87 milligrams cholesterol, 507 milligrams sodium.

June, 18th 2010

Free sushi for limited time

RA Sushi Bar Restaurant is offering complimentary Tootsy Maki today only (June 18) to celebrate the made-up International Sushi Day. There’s some fine print.

You have to go to RA’s Facebook page, click “Like,” and then you’re eligible to print out a coupon. Look at the site closer and you’ll see that the offer is only good for the first 250 respondents. So you have to hurry to the Harbor East restaurant with coupon in hand to qualify.

But it might be worth it. The Tootsy Maki is an $8.25 value. The popular roll has kani kama crab mix, shrimp, and cucumber, and is topped with crunchy tempura bits and drizzled with a sweet eel sauce.

If you can’t see the coupon online—I can’t—RA advises customers to send them an e-mail.

11:44 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
June, 18th 2010

Uh-oh, SpaghettiOs

Campbell Soup Co. is recalling 15 million pounds of SpaghettiOs with meatballs, according to anAP report. I can’t even imagine what 15 million pounds of the Os would look like. It's a scary thought.

It seems that a cooker malfunctioned at one of Campbell’s plants and left the meat undercooked. The USDA said there are no reports of illnesses associated with the product, and a Campbell spokesman said the company has received no customer complaints to date, AP said.

Consumers with questions about the recall can call Campbell's Hotline at 866-495-3774.

8:23 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
June, 17th 2010

Make at home soft shells

Is there anything better than soft- shell crabs in season? This recipe is easy and delicious. I found it years ago in Bon Appétit magazine. The best part: The originator is chef Cindy Wolf of Charleston.

Cornmeal-Crusted Soft-Shell Crabs with Lemon Brown Butter

1 cup buttermilk
4 fresh soft-shell crabs
1 cup yellow cornmeal
¼ cup all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
peanut oil (for frying)
½ cup (1 stick) butter
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 large bunch watercress, thick stems trimmed
1 English hothouse cucumber, peeled, seeded, cut into 2-by-1/4-inch strips (about 2 cups)

Clean crabs, or ask your fishmonger to do it. Pour buttermilk into a 13-by-9-by-2-inch glass baking dish. Add crabs to buttermilk; turn to coat. Let soak in refrigerator one hour, turning occasionally.

Whisk cornmeal, flour, salt, and cayenne in medium bowl. Drain crabs; add to cornmeal mixture and turn to coast both sides generously.

Pour enough peanut oil into heavy large skillet to reach depth of two inches; heat oil to 360 degrees.

Meanwhile, melt butter in small skillet over medium heat. Cook until golden brown, stirring occasionally, about four minutes. Stir in lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat; cover to keep warm.

Working in two batches, add crabs to hot oil and cook until cornmeal coating is golden and crabs are cooked through, about 1 ½ minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

Toss watercress and cucumber in large bowl; sprinkle with salt. Divide among four plates. Top each serving with one crab. Drizzle with brown butter. Makes four first-course servings.

Photo by Rita Mass/epicurious.com

9:20 am Comment Count Tags: recipes
June, 16th 2010

What are you watching tonight?

Top Chef or Throwdown? Both shows, with Baltimore pegs, air at 9 p.m. tonight. Talk about competition.

On Bravo TV, local chef Timothy Dean goes against 16 other chefs in the premiere episode ofTop Chef’s seventh season.

On Food Network, the Throwdown quiche episode pits Bobby Flay against our guy Rodney Henry of Dangerously Delicious Pies. Chef Cindy Wolf of Charleston was one of the chief judges.

I guess I’ll be switching back and forth.

Let’s hope there’s no conflict on Aug. 20. That’s when Chefs vs City will air the Baltimore episode that features chefs Annmarie Langton and Thomas Looney, both of Helen’s Garden, trying to best Food Network chefs Aarón Sánchez and Chris Cosentino as they raced around the city, tackling food challenges.

When the show filmed here on May 26, I caught the action at Cinghiale, but that was just one of their many stops that day. It’ll be fun to see the whole episode.

We’re getting a lot of recognition these days. A new Food Network show, to be called Food Feuds, is also considering focusing on Maryland. The premise is comparing well-known foods against each other, like crab cakes.

Interesting, that’s just what I’m doing for our August Best of Baltimore issue!

Photo: Bravo TV

3:37 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
June, 16th 2010

Rooftop to tabletop

What Fed Hill restaurateur is growing tomatoes on his roof? Baltimore magazine summer intern Elizabeth Laseter gives us the scoop. Here’s what she has to say:

Alan Morstein, pictured, owner of Regi’s American Bistro, is taking the ever so popular “farm to table” trend to the next level. Trek to the top of the colonial row-house-style restaurant and you will find an unusual sight—a carefully cultivated rooftop garden of heirloom tomatoes.

In nearly a month, the heirlooms will be full-grown (nearly 10 feet tall) and ready to make an appearance on the menu. Expect to see items such as homemade gazpacho, fried green tomatoes, tomato pie, and BLT sandwiches.

“Heirloom tomatoes are unique and special,” says Morstein. “It’s much less expensive to grow your own, rather than buy them from a farmers’ market.”

Compared to a conventional tomato, the heirloom has a more rounded oval shape, and comes in a greater variety of colors. Morstein describes the taste of an heirloom as “rich, sweet, and flavorful with low acidity.”

He grows an array of heirlooms, including Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Green Zebra, Mr. Stripey, Yellow Boy, and Beefsteak. Each variety has its own distinctive shape, color, and flavor.

Morstein’s interest in local produce and foods ignited nearly four years ago when he began to frequent local farmers’ markets, including Waverly Farmers’ Market, Towson Farmers’ Market, Bel Air Farmers’ Market, and others. He obtains the freshest produce and meats for his restaurant, making weekly reports on his findings as well, he says.

“How can you not give your customers ‘the real deal’?” Morstein remarks. “If I can provide my guests with better quality food, then I am going to do that.”

He purchased heirloom tomato seeds from Knopps Greenhouse of Severn at the Waverly Market in April. Morstein first raised the plants under grow lights on the second floor of his restaurant, eventually repotting the plants on the roof to catch the sunlight. Morstein also installed tinsel foil strips around the plants to repel birds, squirrels, and other pests.

Growing heirlooms takes extra time and care. “My wife now calls me ‘Farmer Al,’” jokes Morstein.

11:22 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
June, 15th 2010

Is cheap steak an oxymoron?

Help! I’m working on our steakhouse issue for October. Sure, I'll be checking out all the fancy places, but I’d also like to include restaurants that have good, inexpensive steak on their menus.

Let me know if you have any suggestions. You can post here or e-mail me your ideas. Thanks.

Photo by Maggie Smith/FreeDigitalPhotos.net

8:29 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
June, 14th 2010

Local corn is on its way

Alan Morstein, owner of Regi’s American Bistro in Federal Hill, is a Waverly farmers’ market regular and keeps track of what’s local at the stands.

On Saturday, new arrivals included blueberries, apricots, cucumbers, and snap peas, he said. But the big news is that many farmers told him that Maryland corn should be ready in the next week and a half to two weeks.

Don’t you just love summertime?

Photo by Suat Eman/Free DigitalPress.net

9:26 am Comment Count Tags:
June, 10th 2010

The first-ever Santé food event

And you’re invited. This Sunday, June 13, an impressive cast of local chefs, mixologists, and wine experts are gathering at the American Visionary Art Museum from 3-6 p.m. to stir up fun, food, and drink—all to benefit the National Kidney Foundation of Maryland. I’m interested in this benefit for many reasons. First and foremost, kidney disease has touched my life. A family member was on dialysis for a long time before finally finding a kidney match and getting a transplant on a snowy weekend in February. And a good friend generously donated a kidney to her ailing sister, saving her life. All are fine now. But, in addition to supporting the kidney foundation, the event is a terrific opportunity to sample some great food. Participating restaurants include B&O American Brasserie, Blue Hill Tavern, Clementine, Crush, Corks, Linwoods, Milan, RA Sushi, The Wine Market, and many more. A complete list and ticket info are available online. There also will be culinary demos by Joy Ludwig, pictured, pastry chef at Charleston; Sandy Lawler, chef-owner, Feast@4 East; and Jesse Sandlin, executive chef at Vino Rosina. Other presentations include mixing cocktails by Brendan Dorr, food and wine pairings by Jerry Edwards, and wine-tasting advice from Laurie Foster, "The Wine Coach." The event, dubbed "an epicurean adventure," also features a VIP reception at 2 p.m. for an additional cost. It includes special tastings not available during the main party. Tickets are $100 a person for the premium tasting, $75 for regular admission in advance, $85 at the door, and $40 for designated drivers (no alcohol). If you go, let me know what it was like.

3:27 pm Comment Count Tags: events
June, 8th 2010

The Miss Shirley’s diet

It’s not a weight-loss program, that’s for sure. But it is a delicious prescription for recovery.

I had surgery last week, and my daughter Brigitte, who is the chef at Miss Shirley’s, has been nourishing me with food from the restaurant (like Born on the Bay-O Salad with a cornmeal-encrusted soft-shell crab and fried green tomatoes, pictured, yum) and from her own kitchen.

I am so glad I taught this kid how to cook. Of course, she’s taken it way beyond tuna casserole and lasagna. She’s a pro. I’m a home cook.

But she still enjoys fixing meals at home, especially on the grill. Last night, we had barbecue ribs and chicken. Here’s a recipe that Brigitte serves as a side dish. It’s not exact (everything is "to taste," she says), but that’s typical of most chefs’ recipes!

Summer Corn Salad

4 ears corn on the cob

Squirt lemon juice

Bit (about a tablespoon) of red-wine vinegar and olive oil

Sprinkle Old Bay seasoning

Grape tomatoes, halved, (enough to look pretty)

1 teaspoon fresh, chopped basil

Shuck corn. Cook corn in boiling water for about 3 minutes. Drain and cool. Cut corn kernels off the cob and place in a bowl. Add lemon juice, red-wine vinegar, olive oil, Old Bay, grape tomatoes, and basil. Gently toss. Serves a couple of people as a side dish.

Photo from yelp.com

2:53 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
June, 1st 2010

Mexico meets Italy at La Scala

It’s called Mexitalian. That’s right. The Italian restaurant in Little Italy has introduced a new happy-hour menu that puts a twist on Italian and Mexican dishes.

The pub grub includes combos like flatbread Mexicano with cheddar, mozzarella, and sliced jalapeno peppers with a side of salsa, and quesadilla Italiana, a grilled tortilla stuffed with Gorgonzola and prosciutto.

La Scala’s chef/owner Nino Germano decided to merge heritages with his sous chefs Ray and Mauro to create the new cuisine, which is available in the bar from 4:30-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and 3-8 p.m. Sun., according to a press release.

Traditional menu favorites are still available, like bruschetta, fried calamari, and antipasto. There’s also a new bar table and stools to add to your comfort while sampling the new menu. I'll have to stop by soon.

June, 1st 2010

Free tacos

Buy a beverage and get a free order of Mini Street Tacos on Wednesday (June 2) from 5:30-7:30 p.m. at Qdoba Mexican Grill in Ellicott City (9050 Baltimore National Pike, Suite 101).

The restaurant’s newest menu item is a spin on traditional Mexican street fare. Each taco features a soft corn tortilla filled with slow-roasted pulled pork or seasoned shredded beef, topped with red onion and cilantro relish.

An order of the mini tacos (four tacos) is regularly $5.49. They’re available at eight Baltimore-area Qdoba stores and a new one that is scheduled to open in mid-June at 1325 Liberty Road in Eldersburg.

8:51 am Comment Count Tags: events
May, 27th 2010

Get to The Point in Fells

The Point in Fells Point opened yesterday to family and friends. Today, the former Miss Irene’s welcomes everyone.

I stopped by the restaurant today, and owner Erica Russo was nice enough to give me a tour and share the menu. "We’re very health conscious here," said the former accountant, who also managed several area bars. "Everything’s fresh every day."

The chef is Jacob Raitt, who was a sous chef at the acclaimed Bistro Blanc in Howard County, which specializes in small-plate American cuisine. Jacob has translated his experience there into an innovative menu at the new restaurant.

His signature dish is "The Point" steak and eggs with a grilled filet, fried quail egg, Yukon potato hash, and green and white asparagus ($22). That’s one of the "larger plates."

The "small plates" range from $10-14 and feature dishes like braised pork belly, black tiger shrimp, and tuna ceviche. "We’re trying to step out of the box," Jacob said.

There’s also a "pub grub" menu with offerings like flatbread pizza; wings with Buffalo, tequila lime, or Asian sesame sauce; and beef sliders.

The upstairs dining room has one of the best water views in the area. The tables are covered in white cloths. The beautiful, old wood floors remain. Downstairs, the tables around the polished wood bar are bare. "It’s casual, upscale dining," described Erica. "We’re a restaurant with a bar."

When I wrote about the new owners—Erica’s parents Edie and Jimmy Chin of Edie’s Deli & Grill on West Pratt Street are also involved—in early April, the name was going to be Cobblestone Corner. "The Point flowed better," said Erica, explaining the name change. "We’re at the point."

She’s referring to the intersection where Thames, Ann, and other streets converge. The restaurant at 1738 Thames St. will be open for dinner daily and for lunch Fri-Sun. Lunch hours may expand in the future. A website is in the works.

May, 26th 2010

Food Network at Cinghiale

The blue-and-white Food Network flags on Lancaster Street this afternoon were a giveaway. What’s going on? I asked a guy with a camera crew hanging around Cinghiale. He turned out to be the producer of Chefs vs City.

The show pits Food Network chefs Aarón Sánchez and Chris Cosentino against two local foodies—in this case, chefs Annmarie Langton and Thomas Looney, both of Helen’s Garden—in a race around a particular location to find the most interesting, challenging food places.

The day-long, multi-stop sprint around Baltimore in the sweat-producing 90-degree heat came to Cinghiale for one of the challenges. A sign out front read: Prepare egg ravioli, make no mistakes, you’ll have to start over, if any yolk breaks.

The show’s executive producer described the program as a culinary Amazing Race and Iron Chef challenge. The TV crew couldn’t speak on the record, though. I have to get in touch with the Food Network’s PR machine for more answers.

But it was fun watching the teams pull up to the curb in Suburbans, jump out, and run to the restaurant owned by Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf. Each group of two had to read the challenge out loud. (I did overhear that they had been to Bertha’s, too.)

After the Cinghiale competition, they had to race to the finish line at the Welcome Center at the Inner Harbor.

As soon as I get more details from New York, I’ll let you know when the Baltimore show airs. Chefs vs City can be seen at 9 p.m. on Sundays.

4:28 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
May, 26th 2010

Timothy Dean speaks out

Baltimore’s Timothy Dean—one of the newest batch of Top Chef contestants—has had a lot on his plate these days besides standing up to Padma, Tom Colicchio, and new judge Eric Ripert. The chef, still grieving for his wife who died of breast cancer three years ago, is trying to sort out bankruptcy, liquor board hearings, and organizing investors for his new Fells Point steakhouse Prime.

He’s optimistic. "I stand in prayer," he said. And if you read his Facebook page, you’ll see he’s very much into the power of God and positive thinking. On the practical side, he looks at the bankruptcy affecting the now-closed TD Lounge on Eastern Avenue as a temporary setback that won’t derail his future. "It’s why I filed Chapter 11, not Chapter 7. I plan to reduce the debt and pay it back," he said in a phone conversation today.

The call—with a Bravo TV representative on the phone with us to make sure that I didn’t try and get secret Top Chef info out of Dean—focused on the chef’s upcoming appearance on the show’s seventh season, which starts June 16.

Dean was upbeat about the experience. The 17 chefs became friends despite the competition, he said. He especially grew close to his roommates: contestants Angelo Sosa, Stephen Hopcraft, and Alex Reznik. "We’d talk about cooking and life," he said. "We formed a brotherhood. It made an impact on my heart and life."

Even though he is one of the oldest contestants (he turned 40 on March 18), age didn’t matter. "I still cook on the line," he said of keeping up with the young-uns. "Everyone is so mature."

The bulk of the show, which took place in D.C., has been shot, the Bravo spokeswoman said. But the final episodes will be filmed at a future date to determine a winner. The suspense will mount, I’m sure.

Being on the show was a natural for Dean. "I felt I was a top chef," he said. And after watching last season with the Voltaggio brothers and the other chefs, "they took the show to another level," he said. "I thought I’d look good in front of the judges." He’s pretty confident, folks.

Timothy said he started cooking as a child. "My grandfather cooked. I looked at my grandmother, mom, and dad cook. We always loved to cook." He spent most of his youth in D.C. and Clinton, MD, in P.G. County.

While his mom had aspirations for her son to be a doctor, he listened to his dad: "Follow your dreams. People always have to eat."

So the Howard University business major ended up in the kitchen of famed chef Jean-Louis Palladin when he was 18. He worked on and off at the D.C. restaurant at the hotel Watergate until he was 29.

Working for Palladin, who died in 2001, was a lot like being on Top Chef, Dean said. "I was nervous. I had butterflies." But his experience with the French chef formed him. "He was an amazing chef," he continued. "He made me the chef I am today."

While "today" has been rocky, Dean is still planning to open a Prime in Washington. He also has high hopes for the Baltimore restaurant, which is in the same location as TD Lounge. He understands the concerns that were raised about the former lounge.

"The neighbors were upset by the clientele and music," said Dean, who lives in Fells Point. "I listened to the neighbors. I want to get back into the craft. I want to get back into cooking."

After doing his research, he came up with the idea of a steakhouse. "It’s the one concept that isn’t hurting and is still open," he said. He attributes his financial difficulties to the recession and snowstorms this past winter. "I was shut down for a month," he explained.

Dean originally came to Baltimore to open Timothy Dean Bistro in 2005 before turning it into the lounge in 2008. He didn’t expect to end up in our city, he said, but his partner found the building off Broadway and Dean like it immediately.

"I believe in Baltimore," he said. "I’m still here."

Photo courtesy of Bravo TV