June, 15th 2009

Going to the seafood market

I just had to cook this weekend, but what? I decided to stop by Conrad’s Crabs and Seafood Market in Parkville. (Remember when that area used to be called Baynesville?) Owner/waterman Tony Conrad always has a beautiful display of fresh seafood.

I knew something would grab me, and it did—Maryland soft shells. They were $5.50 a piece for jumbos. I bought them, even though there are better prices around town. Our administrative assistant Marge got some beauts on Saturday at a produce market at the old North Point Drive-In in Dundalk. They were three for $12 and still wriggling.

I know I blogged about my Mother’s Day crabs, but now I wanted to mess up my own kitchen. And I love my soft-shell-crab recipe. I discovered it a few years ago in Bon Appetit magazine.

You soak the soft shells in buttermilk for an hour in the fridge, then dredge them in a cornmeal-flour mixture. But the kicker is adding a 1/4 teaspoon cayenne (I add more) to the mix. Then, you cook those babies in hot peanut oil (watch for the popping) for about 2 1/2 minutes on each side. Dinner is served.

There’s one drawback—the leftover smell. But I’ve discovered a new product that takes care of kitchen odors—soy-based candles by Glade. They have a wonderful fragrance (I particularly like the orange vanilla), not cloying at all. Before you even digest the crabs, your kitchen is smelling sweet again.

10:41 am Comment Count Tags: recipes, what's new
June, 12th 2009

A weighty matter

I went to Peter’s Inn last night with a friend who just moved to Baltimore a few weeks ago. It’s a great place to introduce a new resident to Baltimore’s quirkiness and creative food offerings, all at the same time.

And I didn’t even realize how quirky until I went to the ladies room. But that was later in our meal. The Fells Point pub was packed, but we managed to snag a table next to the bar. The menu, as always, was inspired. Chef/co-owner Karin Tiffany never disappoints.

The seafood threesome—shrimp, scallops, and king crab—was beautifully plated and delicious, and the seared tuna melted in our mouths.

Before we ordered dessert, I headed to the ladies room, wedged next to the kitchen door. So far, so good. But once inside, I saw the scale. Yes, the kind you weigh yourself on. It’s bad enough to face one at home but during your meal!

Back at the table, I sadly passed on the Belgian chocolate pots de crème and Key lime tart. The French press coffee was a satisfying finish. But I'm sure the desserts were even better.

9:22 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
June, 11th 2009

Darker Than Blue is alive and well

The Waverly restaurant is not closing. I was surprised to see a comment on Chowhound that Darker Than Blue had a "bank notice" on the front of its building and was going to be sold. That’s not true.

I just spoke to chef/owner Casey Jenkins. "We’re not being sold," he confirmed. "We’re actually growing."

Casey said this isn’t the first time someone has driven by the restaurant and seen the sign out front and claimed the restaurant’s demise.

There is indeed a sign. But it’s a notice for a liquor-board hearing, scheduled for June 25, Casey said. Currently, the restaurant is BYOB.

I reported in April that the restaurant was expanding, adding space to its second floor. That is still happening. Casey expects construction to start any day.

June, 10th 2009

Bobby Flay takes on a local priest

God help him. Really! Earlier this week, Father Leo Patalinghug was summoned to Mount St. Mary’s University in Emmittsburg for a taping by the Food Network. He didn’t know any details. Then, the celebrity chef star of "Throwdown with Bobby Flay" was standing next to him.

But, first, some background on Father Leo. This Baltimore priest is a foodie who developed a program, Grace Before Meals, which encourages families to have meals together to strengthen their relationships. It’s become a worldwide movement leading to a book, blog, and pilot for a TV show.

Father Leo, who was born in the Philippines and raised in Maryland, is also a member of the faculty at Mount St. Mary’s Seminary, where he directs the pastoral field education program for future priests.

The priest, who is as comfortable in a collar as an apron, developed his love for cooking while attending the seminary in Rome. He became friendly with several Italian restaurant owners and soon was learning their cooking secrets.

On his blog, Father Leo writes about his Bobby Flay challenge. He admits to saying, "O my Jesus," when he first saw the super chef. He also says that during the judging he even brought out his rosary. Let’s hope for the power of prayer.

Everyone is mum on the winner. The show is supposed to air sometime in August. I can’t wait to watch.

June, 9th 2009

Top Chef Masters

Sharpen your knives. Bravo’s "Top Chef Masters" starts tomorrow (June 10) at 10 p.m. But what’s really going to be fun is having a locally produced blog to turn to for all sorts of tidbits and recaps about this competition as well as the regular "Top Chef" challenge, when it starts again in the fall. There will also be updates and gossip about the chefs who have been on the shows.

Kathy Patterson, aka Minx Eats, is the inspiration for the new blog All Top Chef! She’s pretty amazing. Besides her day job as a researcher at a local university, Kathy also blogs about perfume, knitting, and fashion. "I was bored," she explains with a laugh during a phone conversation.

Another local blogger, Kit Pollard of Mango and Ginger, is also contributing to All Top Chef as well as several other folks. And former cheftestant Stefan Richter (Season 5) has offered to do guest posts when the regular "Top Chef" returns. Check out his cockychefclothing T-shirt, designed by Kathy. (Does she sleep?)

During the new TCM show, the site also will post a conversation with the four chefs who are competing that week. This week features chefs Hubert Keller, Michael Schlow, Tim Love, and Christopher Lee.

I interviewed Chris Lee a couple of years ago for The News Journal in Wilmington, DE, when he was the executive chef at the Striped Bass in Philadelphia. He now runs the kitchen at Aureole in New York.

I don’t know how Chris will come off on TV, but he’s a really sweet guy, who’s shy and likable and close to his family. He was the James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year in 2005. He also used to give fun cooking demos at Celebrity Kitchens in Wilmington.

But back to TCM, here’s a rundown of how the show will work. There are 24 contestants, including such hot names as Wylie Dufresne, Rick Bayliss, and Roy Yamaguchi. For the first six weeks, four chefs will compete against each other for one winner. During the final four weeks, the six winners will battle it out.

The prize: $100,000 for the charity of their choice as well as the grandiose title Top Chef Master. Let the chopping begin.

10:01 am Comment Count Tags: events, what's new
June, 5th 2009

Better than flowers

I just got a delivery of fresh herbs and am as thrilled as if it had been a dozen roses. They’re not from a secret admirer, though. They’re from Shenandoah Growers in Virginia, trying to woo me in a different way.

But the organic plants in little containers, called living culinary herbs, are beautiful and fragrant. The basil, Italian parsley, and mint are infusing my office with a wonderful scent and spurring me to think about what I’m going to cook for dinner tonight using them.

While the company doesn’t distribute to individual customers, it does deliver to grocery stores, gourmet shops, and restaurants. I’ve been told the herbs can be found at Whole Foods and Wegmans.
herbs-jpg.jpg
But it’s worth checking out Shenandoah’s website for recipes. The polenta with sautéed mushrooms and basil sounds especially delicious.

June, 4th 2009

New farmers market

If you can’t make it to the Waverly farmers’ market on Saturday mornings, there’s another option now. The Green Spring Station farmers’ market starts Saturday (June 6) with afternoon hours.

It goes from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. and will run through Nov. 21. There’s plenty of parking at the market, tucked between the Green Spring Station shops and Hopkins complex at the intersection of Falls and Joppa roads in Lutherville.

I talked to organizer Marge Wildey, who said people have been calling to get into the market. So far, there are 28 vendors, including the Baltimore Dog Bakery, Hawks Hill Creamery, Three Springs Fruit Farm, Pahl’s Farm, Locust Point Flowers, Zeke’s Coffee, a mushroom stand, and Quite a Stir bakery.

Marge, who has owned The Nut Farm in Green Spring Station with her husband, Clay, for 14 years, says she visited many area farmers’ market, including one at Dupont Circle in D.C., to get an idea of what vendors to target for the new venture.

Towson resident Julie Salter of Quite a Stir thinks it’s a great location for the market, and after people shop, they can "go over to Tark’s (Grill) for happy hour," she says.

Why not?

For a complete list of local markets, check out the farmers’ market directory.

11:18 am Comment Count Tags: events, what's new
June, 1st 2009

Never enough pizza

Harbor East is surely a dining destination with a number of upscale and casual spots within its expanding geographical boundaries. But there’s no pizza joint. Soon, there will be.

Bagby Pizza Co. is scheduled to open at the end of August in the old Bagby furniture building being redeveloped on Fleet Street. Blake Smith, who owns the new business with his dad, David Smith, describes the brick-oven pizza as gourmet, with one of the offerings to be a smoked-salmon-and-cream-cheese pie.

Blake, a Boys’ Latin alum who sampled such a pizza in Ireland, says it’s a great-tasting combo. The menu is still being finalized, he says. But customers can also expect to find pasta, sandwiches, and salads. A large (14 inch) cheese pizza will go for around $12-13. About opening a pizza shop, Blake says, "There’s a need for it, for sure."

May, 29th 2009

After Glasz

Glasz Cafe won’t be empty for long. Robb Banks, the new owner of the space in Lake Falls Village, is already hard at work, adding more tables and coming up with a menu for Banksy’s Cafe, named after his late grandfather.

If anyone can make this place fly, it’s Robb, a former Baltimore County judge and, more recently, a stay-at-home dad of three girls (10-year-old twins and a 12-year-old). The man has got to be organized!

The cafe will feature "creative American cuisine," he says. There will be house-made infused waters, coffees, teas, salads, soups, sandwiches, paninis, and decadent desserts. He’ll also have clever snacks like a pickle on a stick. Prices will be wallet friendly, he says.

Robb doesn’t get keys to the restaurant until Monday, but he hopes to open sometime between mid-June and mid-July. He describes the décor as "fun, light, and handsome" with Burberry plaid and Sangria red accents. He’s got lots of plans and is already thinking of a second location in Towson.

May, 28th 2009

Eat for a good cause

"A Summer Evening at The Station" not only benefits the Mt. Washington Pediatric Hospital but allows guests to sample great cuisine from Casa Mia’s, Joey Chiu, Linwoods, Naron Candy, Stone Mill Bakery, Tark’s Grill, and other places. Wines from The Wine Merchant and Bacchus Imports will help wash it all down.

The event, which also features music, is from 6:30-9 p.m. June 14 at Green Spring Station in Lutherville. Tickets are $85. Call 410-578-5040.

No need to dress up. It’s patio attire.

10:06 am Comment Count Tags: events
May, 22nd 2009

Soft Shell Week

I had my first soft-shell crab of the season on Mother’s Day, courtesy of my chef-daughter Brigitte. After a hard day’s work at Miss Shirley’s, where people were lined up before the doors opened at 7:30, she cooked up amazing soft shells in her own kitchen later that day.

And what a treat it was. Brigitte stuffed the soft shells with a mini crab cake, dusted them with flour, pan fried them, and then finished them off in the oven. She also made a caprese-salad stack with heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella drizzled with balsamic and a fresh corn salad. Yum. Am I a lucky mom or what?

But ever since, I’ve been craving more soft shells. So I was glad to get chef Marcus Olson’s e-mail about Soft-Shell Restaurant Week, which starts today and runs through May 31. This is not a fixed-price event. It shines the spotlight on a local food.

Marcus, the hardworking chef at The Brass Elephant, and The Downtown Partnership are working together on this venture. Other restaurants paying homage to our soft-shell crabs include Charleston, Ixia, La Scala, Mother’s Federal Hill Grille, and Sotto Sopra.

At The Brass Elephant, you’ll find such offerings as a soft-shell crab with black bean sauce, spinach, and seaweed salad; a soft-shell-crab salad with Louisiana crawfish, and a soft-shell crab paired with an Angus flat-iron steak.

Marylanders appreciate the joys of eating the whole crab during its short molting season. But it’s always funny to get non-locals reactions. One time, I was eating a soft-shell sandwich at a restaurant, when a little girl at the next table looked over horrified and announced loudly, "That lady is eating a spider."

May, 19th 2009

Our new celebrity chef

E. Michael Reidt may not be a household name, but he certainly has a star-status pedigree—and he’s coming to Baltimore to head the kitchen at the new B&O American Brasserie, set to open in July.

A graduate of the elite Culinary Institute of America, he’s worked with such noted chefs as Patrick O’Connell at The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, Todd English at Olives in Boston, and Suzanne Goin at Alloro in Boston (before she became famous for the award-winning Lucques in L.A.). Known for his French-Brazilian cuisine, chef Reidt (pronounced Reed) also launched his own restaurant in Santa Barbara, CA, and left his culinary mark in Miami among other places.

And for his efforts, he was named one of the country’s "Best New Chefs" in 2001 by Food & Wine magazine. He’s also appeared in "Ready, Set, Cook" on The Food Network.

Now, chef Reidt is going to offer a selection of small plates, charcuterie, cheeses, pizzas, and flat breads as well as a full a la carte menu inspired by the foods of Italy, France, and Spain (at least, that's what the restaurant's website says) at American Brasserie at the corner of Baltimore and Charles streets.

The new restaurant is the first Maryland location for the luxe Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants group (also opening the boutique Hotel Monaco here). The Beaux Arts architecture of the building, where the restaurant is to be located, will be juxtaposed against contemporary design elements.

Wow, Dorothy, I don’t think we’re in Baltimore anymore.

May, 18th 2009

Back to work

Thank you, guest bloggers. It was so much fun reading everyone’s posts. I hope you’ll add your voices again in the future, but without me having surgery next time!

I’m healing and getting around with one crutch, but I’m working from home until my doc gives me the okay to return to the office. I go tomorrow to get my stitches out, so I may be back at my desk on Wednesday.

To while away the time last week, I watched David Simon’s The Wire. I followed the first season intently, as I sat elevating and icing my knee. In one of the episodes, there was a great scene with D’Angelo and his girl (the mother of his toddler son) going to The Prime Rib.

At least, I’m pretty sure it was The Prime Rib. It looked like its logo was on the menus, and the leopard carpet is one of a kind. But D didn’t have a jacket on, which is required at this primo Baltimore spot.

What fascinated me, though, was the dessert cart. In The Wire scene, D reaches for one of the plated cakes, only to be politely told he can’t just take one off the cart. It spoke volumes about class culture.

But it got me thinking about how dessert carts and trays used to be so ubiquitous in restaurants. Now, I’m trying to remember when I was last presented with one. Has anyone seen one lately?

1:44 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
May, 15th 2009

The joys of the snowball

By Ellen Reich

Editor's Note: While Suzanne is recuperating from knee surgery, several In Good Taste readers have agreed to share their food thoughts and experiences.

I grew up in Baltimore to parents born and raised in the Bronx. While not "foodies" or whatever the term was at the time, they were mildly amused by some local culinary traditions.

I can sometimes still hear my father's voice at a deli: "Who wraps a hot dog in bologna?"

Or, when eating crabs: "These things look like insects. The first person to eat them must have been starving."

But, what astonished my father the most about only in Baltimore food was our summertime treat: People actually wait in line and pay money to eat crushed ice with colored sugar water?!?

Halo HaloMy father really didn't understand the joys of the snowball. But I did.

In fact, I make it a habit --ok, maybe I feed a mild obsession--to check out ice-based desserts when I travel. The best are found in places where it's both the heat and the humidity. The snowball serves as the yardstick by which all other frozen H2O desserts are measured.

Outside of Charm City, the best use of ice in desserts is found in Malaysia and Singapore, in an amazing treat called chendol. And, one would be hard pressed to find a frozen concoction more amazing than halo halo, or "mix mix" from the Philippines (pictured left).

There are a dissertation's worth of differences between the snowball, chendol, and halo halo, from the texture of the ice to the toppings. As great as our snowballs are, I need to inform you that there are some serious challengers in the best ice dessert ever category from Southeast Asia. You have ice topped with brown sugar and lychees and corn and red beans and purple yams. Yes, these desserts are even more colorful than a half spearmint, half watermelon snowball. They are equally or more delicious. Egg custard flavor isn't even in the same league.

But, since I'm here, and it's almost summer, make mine a sky blue, with marshmallow, please.

Sorry, Dad.

Ellen ReichEllen Reich owns a small import business, Three Stone Steps, which allows her to travel to Asia at least yearly to work with small producer groups and eat iced-based desserts. Please don't even think of getting her started on differences between the crabs found in the Chesapeake and those from elsewhere.

May, 15th 2009

Elevation Burger: Fast-Food with a Heart

By Kelly Stevens

Editor's Note: While Suzanne is recuperating from knee surgery, several In Good Taste readers have agreed to share their food thoughts and experiences.

Al Gore might eat here.

One night, after yoga, I went to Harbor East’s Elevation Burger. I hadn’t gone to a yoga class in years, but it seemed an appropriate appetizer to a place that had veggie burgers and organic beef on the menu. My very first impressions were it was very sanitary with friendly staff, and had Old Bay on the tables – always a good sign. A graphic ad poster on one wall declared, "No risk of mad cow disease!" Well, thank God. I’d never been worried about mad cow disease in the past, but now that you mention it…

Elevation Burger’s mission is to offer quality food that "makes a difference" both to customers and the environment and "plays a leading role in progressing beyond the age of industrial agriculture to pursue a more sustainable and healthier future." Ingredients include organic, grass-fed, free-range beef and fries cooked in 100% olive oil. They are committed to offering customers food that’s "nutritionally superior" – there is no trans-fat in any of their food.

Let me clarify what Elevation Burger is not. It is not strictly vegan; however, it can serve as the vegan’s fast-food solution.

Elevation Burger is also not a "healthy" fast-food restaurant. Don’t kid yourself – it’s still fast food and the fries are still, well, fried. But in all fairness, they do make an earnest effort to provide healthy options without completely losing that greasy goodness we all salivate for and have come to expect in fast food.

Organic beef means cows aren’t given antibiotics and are free of pesticides and other chemicals, which translates into cleaner, safer meat for us humans. Today most cows are "grain-fed", meaning they are fed a diet consisting primarily of corn. The problem is, a cow’s four stomachs aren’t designed to process grains, so they often become sick, which is why they’re given antibiotics – to counteract their weakened immune system. Grain also adds lots of calories and saturated fat to beef, making the cows fatter, as well as the human who eat them. Grass-fed beef has more healthy Omega 3s, which means less weight gain and less risk of heart disease.

So what is Elevation Burger, then? Think of it as the first green fast-food restaurant. From the food ingredients used, to the energy-efficient lighting, to the non-polluting paint on the walls, Elevation Burger’s philosophy is about being considerate of the planet and all creatures that live on it.

To my surprise, the menu consisted mostly of beef burgers, but there were two vegan burger options – fire-roasted taste, which I assume means it tastes more beefy, and then another one that tastes like veggies. I opted for the "Half the Guilt Burger," a beef patty stacked on top a veggie patty of your choice, topped with cheddar, caramelized onions, tomato and the tangy yet spicy Elevation sauce.

The burger wasn’t anything special, although it was interesting to have the beef and veggie burgers in the same bite. Overall, it satisfied the fast food urge. And, I did feel a little less guilty knowing I’m not damaging my body as much as I could be eating somewhere else. I also had a side of fries and a vanilla milk shake, which were both great.

You can choose healthy sides like a salad, mandarin oranges, or an apple. You also have the option to forego a bun and instead have your burger wrapped in lettuce – a trend that’s being made popular by Asian restaurants like P.F. Changs. My only complaint is that Elevation Burger is a little pricy – $22 for two of us, and we split the order of fries. $4 for a milkshake seems steep, even if it was really tasty.

I am one of those people who turn their noses up at the mention of McDonald’s but who sneak through the drive-thru for a Filet-o-Fish about once a month while hoping I don’t see anyone I know. That said, I enjoyed my meal at Elevation Burger and would happily go back in daylight.

Kelly StevensKelly Stevens is a communications manager who splits her time between Perry Hall and Columbia, and dines everywhere in between.