August, 28th 2009

Federal Hill newsflash

Look for Federales, a Mexican cantina, to open in Federal Hill later this year, says Brian McComas, a partner with the Federal Hill Hospitality Group (FHHG). The chef will be Francisco Lopez, who was born and raised in Mexico.

Of late, Francisco has been a sous chef at nearby Ryleigh’s Oyster (also part of the Fed Hill restaurant group). Brian, who e-mailed me during a vacation in Bethany (thanks, Brian), says Federales just received approval for a liquor license transfer. The restaurant, at 1100-1106 S. Charles St., across from Cross Street Market, will be casual with reasonably priced, upscale cuisine.

In other FHHG news, Avery’s Pearl—which was supposed to open this past spring—is still in the works but is a little behind schedule, Brian says, as the group focuses on its restaurant Taverna Corvino and now Federales. And at Ryleigh’s Oyster, Brian wanted me to know that chef Patrick Morrow (formerly a sous chef the defunct VIN in Towson) has been putting a creative spin on the restaurant’s menu.

I’ve also been told that another restaurant group (um, the Charleston people) has been scouting out possible restaurant sites. Sometimes, the weakened economy presents opportunities.

August, 27th 2009

The incredibly shrinking Best Restaurants list

The Brass Elephant has closed, according to its Facebook page. The building has been for sale for a couple of months, but I kept hoping this elegant restaurant could hang on. It didn’t.

That’s the fourth restaurant on our 2009 Best Restaurants list to shut its doors. The others are Jordan’s Steakhouse, Ixia, and The Bicycle. And maybe we’ll also have to add The Dogwood, which closed for the month of August.

Although chef/co-owner Galen Sampson said recently that the restaurant will reopen, others aren’t so sure. A commenter on our blog—who said he was a former employee—had this to say, "Most of the front of the house staff is already working elsewhere, and the entire kitchen staff has moved on."

None of this is good, of course. During an e-mail exchange a few weeks ago with Marcus Olson, the chef at The Brass Elephant (and our pick as this year’s best new chef in town), he sounded discouraged. He wrote:

"Trying to do the best in an economy is out of a chef’s control. . . . I’ve never been in a city where the suburbs are more busy with customers than the actual city is! . . . We are a local restaurant and all the chain restaurants seem to be frequented more than independent downtown dining."

But there are bright spots with the opening of Blue Hill Tavern (see my review in our October issue), Taverna Corvino, Pizzazz, and Talara.

There also will be a new restaurant opening soon in the spot once occupied by Tsunami on Bank Street near Little Italy. Called Diablita ("Little Devil"), it will feature Mexican fare. That’s all I know for now. The owners are finalizing the menu and promise to get back to me soon with more information.

August, 26th 2009

Max visits City Cafe

Hey, guys. It’s Max Weiss guest blogging for Suzanne. Last night I went to a press dinner at the newly renovated City Cafe in Mt. Vernon, hosted by my dear friend (and PR maven extraordinaire) Edie Brown.

Other media types in attendance: WJZ’s Tanya Black and Pete Amorgeanos, social columnist Anne Boone-Simanski, CityPeek’s Patti Neumann, and Girl’s Life’s Karen Bokram. Suzanne doesn’t generally attend these types of events, as she needs to remain as under-the-radar as possible. But I’ll give you my first impressions.

I used to live in Mt. Vernon and City Cafe was a regular stomping ground, so it was almost jarring to see all the changes. But once I got over the fact that my beloved black-and-white-checkered floor was gone (well, paved over, at least), I had to admit that the place looks quite spiffy.

Affable co-owner Bruce Bodie has decided to open up the space, making the coffeehouse portion of the cafe more integrated with the restaurant. He put in a chic, steel-gray floor, Danish-style chairs, and got rid of partitions in the coffeehouse and the booths in the bar. The place feels a lot more streamlined now.

They’ve also brought in a new executive chef, a talented and ebullient fellow named Chad Gauss. Chad says that he makes all of his food with love (shades of Carla from Top Chef?) and, corny as that may seem, you feel it. He also grows his own herbs, right in the restaurant’s window.

I had blackened tuna with mashed potatoes, beets, and edamame, and it was delish. Pete, who’d never been a beet guy before, was a convert. Other standouts were a caprese salad with hand-pulled mozzarella and the potentially addictive truffle-parmesan fries that accompanied the steak frites.

Look for a full review in an upcoming issue of the magazine. But things are definitely off to a promising start. Thanks, Edie!

10:48 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, restaurants
August, 26th 2009

In search of bento boxes

I have become slightly obsessed with these lunchtime meals. They’re fairly inexpensive and offer lots of food. And the best part is that I usually get two meals out of one.

RA Sushi has been my go-to place for the traditional Japanese boxes. I love the abundance of fresh sautéed veggies, slaw salad, steaming miso soup plus other good stuff.

But recently, I succumbed to the bento boxes at Roy’s in Harbor East and Umi Sake in Cockeysville. You can read more about my lunch at Roy’s in our October issue. But for now, just know that the spicy ahi tuna poke (a traditional Hawaiian dish) in the bento box is worth a return trip.

If you haven’t heard of Umi Sake, it’s a new Japanese fusion-sushi restaurant, located in the spot where York Garden used to be in Cockeysville. Lisa Lee is running the show there now. Locals may remember her from Johnny’s Sushi (now Yamato Sushi) in Timonium.

Lisa left Johnny’s when her daughter was born. Now, she’s back at work. By the looks of the crowd at Umi Sake, followers have found her.

I stopped by at lunchtime to check out the restaurant. The space is pretty. Lisa has changed the color scheme, ditching the pink for soothing beige. Asian artwork hangs on the walls. It’s very Zen.

So I was happy to also be transported with a bento box, featuring a magnificent slab of teriyaki salmon (there are other choices, too). Fried rice, vegetable spring rolls, salad, and miso soup completed the package. I went back another time for sushi and sake. I’ll tell you about that in our November issue.

In the meantime, where do you go for bento boxes?

August, 21st 2009

Cafe Gia gets a liquor license

Drinks aren’t available yet, but they will be soon, promises Café Gia’s sweet owner, Gia Blattermann Fugate. The restaurant staff needs to go through some required training, she said, and then they can start serving liquor. I’ll let you know when that happens. I found this out today when I was there for lunch. (I’m a huge fan of the eggplant sandwich.) There was a healthy lunch crowd, which is always nice to see during this economy and especially during the dog days of August. Another new feature at the Little Italy bistro is the second-floor balcony for outside seating. It’s especially nice in the evening for people-watching when Eastern Avenue comes alive with pedestrians. The next time you stop by, also check out the photo of Gia’s other new addition—baby Luca, who’s almost seven months old now. I saw Gia pushing him in a stroller a few weeks ago. He’s a cutie and seems as good-natured as his mom.

August, 19th 2009

Meet Top Cheftestant Jesse Sandlin

jesse-sandlin-jpg.jpgTonight, Chef Jesse Sandlin of Abacrombie Fine Foods will be preparing finger foods like local peaches wrapped with Serrano ham and heirloom tomatoes with Buffalo mozzarella for guests who are paying $60 to nosh and to watch the premiere episode of Bravo’s Top Chef: Las Vegas at Silo Point’s swanky penthouse. The catch is that Jesse is one of the cheftestants on the show, which is in its sixth season.

"I’ve never been on TV before," she says. "It’s a little surreal."

Jesse is good friends with Jill Snyder, a cheftestant on last year’s show who is now working at Woodberry Kitchen. She said Jill wasn’t the reason she decided to try out for a spot on Top Chef. She really wanted to promote her hometown

"I have a lot of love for Baltimore," said Jesse, 30, who went to Glen Burnie Senior High. "There’s great stuff going on."

She joins two other native Marylanders, brothers Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, who grew up in Frederick. Bryan is the chef/owner of the award-winning VOLT in the Western Maryland town. Michael is a chef de cuisine at a Michelin-star restaurant in Pasadena, CA.

Jesse has nothing but praise for both guys. She’s been to Bryan’s restaurant, where she asked him to cook whatever he liked for her. "It’s really amazing," she said. "He’s a really talented guy and super nice."

I talked to Jesse yesterday on the phone about her Top Chef experience. We were joined by a Bravo representative, who runs interference in case I start pumping Jesse for info about this year’s competition. Jesse isn’t allowed to talk about the particulars, but she sounded upbeat and happy about the deal.

She said she expected cattiness but didn’t find it. "The people I met were awesome," she said." But she added that maybe it would seem more cutthroat once the footage was edited.

She spent six weeks in Las Vegas for the show, which hasn’t shot the finale yet. She wasn’t a big fan of the heat. "I hated it," she said, laughing. "I’m not a summertime person."

The 17 competitors also didn’t get a chance to see much of the so-called Sin City. "Your pretty secluded from the world," she said.

Jesse is a self-taught chef. There are actually several chefs who are not culinary-school trained in this season’s group, but there are also competitors who have received prestigious James Beard awards.

But Jesse, who spent 14 years perfecting her cooking chops in restaurants from here to Australia, takes a realistic approach. "It’s just little ol' me," she says. "I tried to be me, who I was, there."

Perhaps Jesse’s colorful tattoos speak more to her spirit and drive. "I get comments all the time," she said. "People will stop me in the grocery store." She doesn’t mind. Each of the tats has something to do with her life. "There’s a story behind every one of them," she said.

She’s also quick to point out, "I’m anything but timid."

Go, Jesse. Let the competition begin.

8:56 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
August, 17th 2009

Chef Joshau Hill resurfaces

Chef Josh and business partner Susan Hunt have an interesting venture going on to raise money for a new barbecue operation.

They’re asking 1,000 friends to donate $40 to the business. In return, donors will get $75 in "piggy bucks" to redeem on food at the eatery when it opens. If the goal isn’t met, people will get their money returned, Josh said on the phone today.

The deadline for contributions is Thursday. You can view the details on their Facebook page.

In this economic climate, when there are all kinds of home-selling strategies going on, this idea doesn’t seem so strange. But the duo is also pursuing more traditional means of funding, Susan said.

The Memphis-style barbecue place, to be called Pig and the Peach, will be located on Falls Road in Hampden, Josh said. He plans to buy a huge custom concession trailer that he can also take to catering events, though he stresses it will be in place 85 percent of the time.

Josh and Susan met through friends, and the two soon began trying to figure out how to get a restaurant off the ground. "Josh is a brilliant cook and has a great reputation," said Susan, who has a full-time public-relations job and is the single mother of two kids, ages 12 and 14.

"I think we’re going to make a good team," she added. "I’m pragmatic and he has the innate vision."

August, 12th 2009

What we know about Dogwood

Chef Galen Sampson assures me that The Dogwood in Hampden is not closing permanently. He’s heard the rumors, too. Even his liquor distributor thought he had shut his doors for good. His answer, "No, absolutely not."

Galen, who has had bronchitis for the last few weeks and been out of touch, said that the restaurant he owns with his wife, Bridget, is going through a reorganization. It stopped lunch service and closed for August.

When Dogwood reopens in September, Galen said it will just serve dinner Tuesday-Saturday. It may be a financial decision, but he thinks the restaurant is better suited to evenings anyway. "We’re a basement restaurant," he said. "We’re more attractive at night."

His lunch staff, who were part of a culinary training program, is now at the nonprofit Plates Cafe and Catering in the Woman’s Industrial Exchange on North Charles Street. Galen is on the board and also develops recipes for the restaurant; Bridget is its acting executive director.

Plates currently serves lunch Mondays-Fridays but plans to add breakfast hours in the fall, Galen said.

In the meantime, he said many of his other kitchen help and servers took vacation time and "plan to come back to us" at Dogwood.

I also talked to Christian DeLutis today. He’s Dogwood’s former chef de cuisine and now executive chef at Alizee. He’s also a good friend of Galen’s. He said the restaurant was always busy when he was working there. "I see them landing on their feet," he said.

Galen sounded positive about reopening. "It’s tough right now," the chef said. "I expect September to be a good month."

We hope so, too.

August, 12th 2009

Woodberry Kitchen in Bon Appetit

Woodberry Kitchen is called one of "today’s most exciting restaurants" in the September issue of Bon Appetit. I’ve been waiting for my magazine ever since I saw Sun restaurant critic Elizabeth Large’s post last week about the honor. Finally, I got it in the mail yesterday.

Besides being a wonderful nod to chef/owner Spike Gjerde, it’s a great thing for Baltimore, too. We’re slowly but surely getting more recognition on the national restaurant scene.

You may remember last year that Bon Appetit picked Cinghiale as one of its "12 favorite places across the country" and featured two of chef Julian Marucci’s recipes.

In the current magazine, there’s a recipe for Woodberry’s Spiced Pear Flatbreads with Goat Cheese and Mustard Cream. Yes, kids, you can make this at home, though going to Woodberry is such a treat.

I was there last Saturday afternoon for a special fashion event featuring Woodberry-made nibbles like miniature crab cakes, tiny tomato sandwiches, and chicken strips on a skewer. While I was there, I saw Spike toiling in the open kitchen as well as former Top Chef contestant Jill Snyder.

Besides offering delicious, local, "farm to table" food, the restaurant is also a class act. The last time I was there (they didn't know who I was), the server forgot to bring my salad. He ended up taking my whole dinner off the check. Wow.

August, 11th 2009

Hot stuff

I once baked chocolate-chip cookies in my car on a hot summer day. Really! It was an experiment, albeit a slightly failed one.

I remembered this yesterday when I was driving on Caroline Street and saw kids playing in gushing water from an open fire hydrant. There was a police car with lights flashing and blocking the lane so the kids could dash around. In yesterday’s heat, I would like to have joined them.

Of course, the sizzling sidewalks brought to mind the old adage, "It’s so hot, you could fry an egg" on them. Years ago, when I was at The Sun, that same thought got the folks in the features department to thinking about other things you could cook outside minus a grill or an oven.

The next thing I knew, I was whipping up cookie dough, spooning tablespoons on a baking sheet, placing the tin on my car engine (not running), and closing the hood, in the sweltering noonday August heat.

Amazingly, the cookies baked, but in a crazy way. They were like thin shells with no insides. I don’t recommend it. There are better ways to get sweets.

Has anyone ever tried to fry an egg on the sidewalk?

8:59 am Comment Count Tags: tidbits
August, 4th 2009

Just peachy

When the world gives you peaches, make something wonderful. I couldn’t resist buying a lot of peaches from Three Springs Fruit Farm at the Green Spring Station Farmers Market on Saturday. They were so beautiful.

So last night, I decided to pair the peaches with boneless, skinless chicken thighs. I found a Food Network recipe online that is easy and delicious. It calls for chicken breasts, but the thighs worked fine. I can’t wait to have leftovers tonight.

But I got the peaches for another reason, too. It’s time to make my annual brandied peaches, an absolutely luscious mix that is heavenly over vanilla ice cream. I’ve had this recipe for years, and I always have a happy sense of nostalgia when I look at the yellowed, worn paper it is typed on.

It came from one of The Sun’s most gentlemanly features writers, Carleton Jones, who died in January 2008. When I was newbie copy editor at The Sun, Carleton, a splendid cook, shared his summer specialty with me.

I was honored and now make it with reverence each year. I hope you enjoy it, too.

Brandied Peaches

6-8 firm peaches, sliced (see note)
1 cup water
1 cup honey
juice of one lemon
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ cup brandy
½ cup Kirsch

Slowly heat sliced peaches, water, honey, lemon, and cinnamon in a pan. Add brandy and Kirsch, and stir till blended. Place in a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate at least overnight (48 hours is better). Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Note: A mixture of seasonal berries and peaches can also be used.

10:21 am Comment Count Tags: recipes
July, 31st 2009

Grano moves, Cuban moves in

Gino Troia’s Grano Pasta Bar is staying in Hampden but is moving around the corner to 3547 Chestnut Ave., where Dangerously Delicious Pies Savory House used to be. The transition should take place by mid-September.

"We turned away so many people," Gino said of the current tiny space at 36th Street and Hickory Avenue. "We’ll have the same name, same menu, and same prices."

He added that there will be some specialties on the menu like osso buco and fish dishes for patrons who want more protein in their diets.

But the old location won’t stay empty for long. A new Cuban restaurant, Havana Road, with a chef from Cuba (Marta Quintana, who now lives in Lutherville) will move in, offering authentic fare, like ropa viejo sandwiches, and Cuban coffee, Gino said.

I also got an e-mail from Marta’s business partner, Susan Yannetti, letting me know that, in addition to the take-out restaurant, she and the chef are also launching an artisanal foods company that will retail products through Whole Foods in the mid-Atlantic region.

Hampden dining just gets more and more interesting.

July, 24th 2009

The Julia movie and Cindy Wolf

meryl-streep.JPGI saw the movie Julie & Julia last night with Cindy Wolf, executive chef at Charleston restaurant, at an early screening at the Landmark Theatre. We really don’t know each other. But we connected over Julia Child.

We both have Julia experiences—more about that in a minute—and had read the books Julie & Julia and My Life in France on which the movie is based.

When I was talking to Cindy last week about the time she spent with Julia, she said she couldn’t wait to see the movie, which opens to the public Aug. 7. I had passes to the preview, and next thing I knew, I asked her to go with me.

It was great. We loved the movie. It’s laugh-out-loud funny.

Meryl Streep is the perfect Julia with her distinctive voice and towering presence. Director Nora Ephron did a terrific job of blending the two stories, starting with Julia Child eating sole meuniere (her breakthrough eating moment!) in France in 1949 and intermingling Julia’s cooking discoveries with the saga of secretary Julie Powell (played by Amy Adams). Feeling stuck in a dead-end job, Julie decided to write a blog in 2002 about making all the recipes from Julia’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking—536 recipes in 365 days.

The movie is about more than cooking—though anyone who’s been in a kitchen will appreciate the "lobster killer" scene and charred boeuf bourguignonne. It’s also about relationships, honesty, and self discovery.

Spoiler alert here: There is a downer part about how Julia Child reacts when someone tells her about Julie’s blog. Julia evidently doesn’t like it, and Julie is crushed.

Cindy Wolf and I were talking about this afterward. We both were surprised because Julia was so gracious in our dealings with her. We wondered if perhaps the person who told this to Julie had it wrong.

Of course, we’ll never know since Julia died in 2004 at age 91. With the anniversary of her death, Aug. 13, and her birth, Aug. 15, along with the movie, coming up, I expect there will be a lot of Julia remembrances going on.

I had the fortune to hang out with Julia for three days in 1999 when I was the food editor at The Sun and writing a story about her visit. She was being honored by the Baltimore chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food.

I actually sat with her for several hours in her room at the Admiral Fell Inn and then walked along Broadway in Fells Point with her. Once word got around, chefs and shop owners came out of their businesses to greet her. She was 86 then, using a cane, but stopped to talk to each person.

Cindy Wolf has blogged about her own Julia experience. I hope you’ll read it. I really like this part: "The day Julia Child walked through the door of the restaurant was one of the best days of my life."

Cindy doesn’t remember the exact year she cooked for Julia at Charleston, but Julia was in Baltimore again in 2001. It could have been then.

The chef knows the menu, though: cornmeal fried oysters, tiny lump crab cake, chilled avocado soup, pan-roasted sea scallop with fresh black truffle and cauliflower leek cream, sauteed veal sweetbreads, fresh fava beans, and shiitake mushrooms in a white-wine pan sauce.

No wonder Julia was impressed. During the meal, Julia asked Cindy, "Why haven’t I heard of you?" She also told Cindy she should write a cookbook.

She hasn’t, but Cindy is an avid reader of all kinds of books. Currently, she’s reading Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection by Karen Hess. It’s on my list now, too.

When the movie was over, I walked to Charleston with Cindy, who was going back to the kitchen. As we said goodbye, we laughed. We realized Cindy was wearing pearls with her chef jacket. It was so appropriate.

Julia Child was known for her pearls, and Julie Powell started wearing pearls, too, in honor of Julia.

As I left, I heard Cindy cheerfully greet diners leaving the restaurant, "Thank you for coming. How was your dinner?"

Echoes of Julia. Nice.

11:32 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
July, 22nd 2009

New Fells Point restaurant

The Kali’s Restaurant Group is expanding. In early fall, Tapas Adela will join siblings Kali’s Court, Mezze, and Meli in Fells Point. The new restaurant will be in the space formerly occupied by Petticoat Tearoom at 814 S. Broadway, next-door to the Admiral Fell Inn.

Kenneth Petty, Meli’s general manager, said the restaurant will offer "classic Spanish tapas" with a modern interpretation. Corporate chef Rashad Edwards (one of the nicest guys around) will have his hand in the menu development, though another chef, to be decided, will be on site when the restaurant opens.

There will be courtyard tables in the rear, Kenneth says, in addition to interior seating at the new place. There’s a liquor license in place, and there will be valet parking. What more could you want?

Kenneth said he doesn’t expect the new tapas restaurant—called Adela because the Kali’s group loved the traditional Spanish name—to compete with Mezze, which focuses on Greek small plates.

The busy restaurateurs also snagged the closed Admiral’s Cup earlier this year. Kenneth didn’t disclose any plans for the once longtime institution on Thames Street across from the water-taxi stop. He said the restaurant group is expecting about a year of renovations at the former waterfront bar.

Details to come.

July, 22nd 2009

Zagat survey

The 2010 Zagat survey was released today and is available on the guide’s website and at many area bookstores. There don’t seem to be any surprises. Charleston reigns for the most part.

But it was sad to see the now-closed Bicycle and Ixia in the listings. Of course, publication deadlines can’t be controlled.

In its "What’s New" explanation, Zagat recognizes Corks and the Grill at Harryman House for offering less formal menus at lower prices and gives a shout out to Harford Road’s Restaurant Row.

It also notes The Hill in Federal Hill is showing signs of early success and mentions the brand-new Hell Point Seafood in Annapolis, an offshoot of the popular Kinkead’s in Washington.

All in all, it says, "the DC and Baltimore dining scenes are holding up remarkably well" in this crazy economic time. Let’s hope it continues.

12 issues for $18!