December, 12th 2008

Baltimore Sandwich Challenge Tour

I’m impressed, really impressed. The 29 best sandwiches in our October food issue caught the attention of two food-addicted bloggers, Kate and Nicole, who are going to sample them all. You go, girls! Here’s what they say on their blog:

"After reading a recent article in Baltimore Magazine about the best sandwiches in Baltimore, we were both so enticed that we decided to try them all. Every other Friday (payday) we will try a new sandwich. To help maintain our girlish figures, we decided it would be best to split the sandwiches. Here, on this blog, you will follow us through our journey and find out if these truly are the best sandwiches in Baltimore."

Kate and Nicole, we await your judgments. (And welcome to my world of constant exercise and fat jeans.) The women are rating the sandwiches on a one-to-five star basis with five being the best. Each woman weighs in, so to speak, on the merits of each one.

Here’s what they’ve found so far:

Petit Louis, croque monsieur. Both gave it five stars.
On the Hill Cafe & Market, The McMechen. Both, three stars.
Ceriello Fine Italian Foods, Roma. Both, four stars.
Miss Shirley’s, bistro beef. Kate gave it four stars, although she did note that she would have added a half star if they did that; Nicole, five stars.

What do you think of their ratings to date?

December, 8th 2008

New Timonium restaurant

The Mays Chapel spot vacated by Cafe Isis is about to have new tenants. Chef Roddy Domacasse, formerly of Brasserie Tatin and Linwoods, is opening Restaurant Sabor with two partners on Saturday (Dec. 13) in the Roundwood Center where Graul’s is located off Padonia Road. Look for a classic menu with seasonal, freshly prepared items, Roddy says.

The restaurant will be open for dinner seven days a week with lunch available Wednesday-Friday and brunch Saturday and Sunday (starting the following weekend). Roddy wants to keep the prices affordable with dinner entrées in the $15-28 range. There will also be early-bird specials from 4:30-6 p.m. The restaurant is BYOB with a $5 corkage fee per table, no matter how many bottles of wine you bring. "We’re trying to accommodate everyone," the affable chef says. "We want it to be a neighborhood place."

There is also a community table, where you can join other diners for a meal. The décor by Rita St. Clair is warm and cozy with floral fabrics, banquettes, and lots of wood in an American Arts and Crafts style. Roddy says he feels fortunate to have found the space and area. "We fell in love with it and the people."

Restaurant Sabor is offering a pre-fixe, four-course menu for New Year’s Eve for $65 a person, featuring dishes like Caesar salad, lobster ravioli mushroom ragout, prime rib, duck l’orange (wow, when was the last time you saw that on a menu?) and a dessert sampler. Reservations: 410-628-7227. There’ll be a website soon.

12:09 pm Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
December, 4th 2008

Showtime at Germano's

First, there was opera night at Sotta Sopra. Now, there’s cabaret at Germano’s Trattoria in Little Italy on Thursdays. Tonight, enjoy performances by the Sophomore Acting Ensemble of The Baltimore School for the Arts, who sing and do scenes from Barefoot in the Park, Waiting for Godot, and other shows.

There is a cover charge of $10, which is donated to the school, and an additional $15 minimum for food and/or drinks. Doors open at 6 p.m. for pre-show dining; showtime is 7:30 p.m. Reservations are recommended by calling the restaurant, 300 S. High St., 410-752-4515. What a great way to enjoy Germano’s Tuscan fare and support local performers.

10:58 am Comment Count Tags: events, restaurants
December, 2nd 2008

Pisces closing

Sadly, the beautiful Pisces restaurant at the Hyatt Regency Baltimore is ending its a la carte service for dinner and brunch on Dec. 7, according to an email from the restaurant . The space will be used for private meetings and events. But the restaurant—with its wonderful view of the harbor—will still be having its New Year’s Eve party.

The hotel’s Bistro 300 will remain open, and its menu will soon be updated to reflect American bistro dining. For more info, call the hotel at 410-528-1234.

11:23 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
November, 25th 2008

Ale I Want for Christmas

Just in time for the holidays, The Brewer’s Art is releasing Resurrection ale—its award-winning, flagship beer—in bottles. It will be ready Dec. 15, says Tom Creegan, co-owner of the restaurant/brewery, and will be available at Brewer’s, area bars and local liquor stores and wine shops. Right now, the potent ale is bottle conditioning (going through second fermentation) at Sly Fox in Pennsylvania, Tom says. We're waiting patiently for its homecoming.

November, 18th 2008

More on Miss Irene's

After "two years and a ton of money," Miss Irene’s is opening for business on Dec. 1, says owner Benjamin Greene, who also runs the Waterfront Hotel in Fells Point. The restaurant at 1738 Thames St. was completely gutted and now has the look of a modern-day bistro. It will operate from 5 p.m. to close the first week. Then, it will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, with brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, starting Dec. 8. A grand-opening celebration is planned for Dec. 12. Ben has lots planned, including martini lunches on weekdays. Look for French influences on the menu.

November, 13th 2008

Snyder! Snyder!

Red Maple executive chef Jill Snyder got a roar of support Wednesday night at a Top Chef premiere party as about 100 viewers watched the first episode of season five. Jill is one of 17 cheftestants competing for the Bravo show’s top prize—$100,000 to start a restaurant. The good news is that she moves on to the second episode. For details of the show, check out my colleague Max Weiss’s excellent recap.

The en-masse viewing started off last night at Red Maple with hors d’oeuvres prepared by our cheftestant—including lovely little bites of lamb burgers and veggie spring rolls (which were scarfed up quickly by the hungry masses). The event, sponsored by the Baltimore Foodies, attracted a mix of urban hipsters and suburban adventurers of varying ages. The place was buzzing until an announcement was made at about 9:45 that the TV equipment wasn’t working and the party would move across the street to the upstairs lounge at Grand Central to view the 10 p.m. show.

With two free drink tickets in hand, party-ers rushed to pay their bar tabs, grab their coats, and climb the steps to the new location in time to watch Jill in action. There wasn’t a whole lot of focus on her last night (the judges did like her jerk scallops with plantain fritters in the elimination round), but every time, she appeared on the screen, the crowd chanted her last name, cheered, and whistled. Jill was in the mix, surrounded by friends and followers. She had to be pleased.

4:33 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
November, 11th 2008

Miss Irene's opening

It must be getting close. There are menus posted on the door of the once scruffy, old-time Fells Point bar, which has been renovated into a spiffy, modern-day bistro. The web site still proclaims an Oct. 28 opening. Obviously, that didn’t happen. I have a call into owner Ben Greene to see if I can pinpoint another date.

From the looks of the menu, there’s definitely a French influence. Lunch items include: frisée aux lardons, croque madame (and monsieur), coq au vin, and omelet du jour. For dinner, look for carpaccio of beef, calamari, and charcuterie appetizers; duck risotto, ahi tuna, steak frites, house-made pasta, and moules frites for entrées. Hopefully, we’ll get to try these soon.

November, 6th 2008

Eat in Season Restaurant Challenge continues

The response to the Eat in Season Restaurant Challenge was so overwhelming that it will continue in 2009—at least through May, says Kerry Dunnington, a member of Slow Food Baltimore who is involved in the effort.

Here’s the lineup: January, Abacrombie; February, Ethel and Ramone’s; March, Feast @ 4 East; April, Great Sage; and May, Golden West Cafe. To end 2008, Tapas Teatro is taking the charge Nov. 8-15, and One World Cafe is on board Dec. 8-15.

Kerry and her Slow Food committee members issued a challenge to area restaurants earlier this year, asking them to offer seasonal foods on their menus for a week. The idea was to have one restaurant featured each month. The feedback was immediate. "What amazed me was that these people got my letters and called me. I didn’t expect that," Kerry says. "All of them have been so excited."

12:11 pm Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
November, 4th 2008

Quite a catch

Oceanaire’s executive chef Benjamin Erjavec is still trying to catch his breath after a whirlwind visit to Alaska (his first) last month to see exactly where the restaurant’s Alaska king crab originates. "We got to see the whole process—from ocean to plate," he says.

During the trip to Dutch Harbor, Ben went out on the boat Arctic Sea during a catch and was pretty impressed with what he saw. "I have a whole new appreciation for it, for sure, what those fishermen go through," he says.

Back home, the chef is offering fresh king crab clusters for $42.95 a pound. He’s steams them and encourages diners to eat them without butter. "They’re that sweet and delicate," he says.

During the king crab season, from now till the end of December, Ben will also have whole live king crabs, which he’ll steam whole. Usually, eight to 10 people feast on the giant crustacean at a table, he says. He sold out of 120 pounds of king crab last week, but is expecting a new shipment on Wednesday. "To think we have live king crab in Baltimore is amazing," he says.

November, 3rd 2008

Vote, then eat

This election seems to be heading for a record turnout—at restaurants and bars, that is—as voters feel the need to celebrate or commiserate with fellow voters. Morton’s The Steakhouse in Baltimore and Annapolis are opening their elegant Boardrooms to diners who want to watch the presidential results en masse on a theater-style broadcasting system.

The restaurants are offering an election night prix-fixe menu for $52.95 a person (filet mignon, shrimp, or crab cakes as entrées) and special cocktails (surprise, surprise, they’re named Republicantini, the Democratini, and the Undecided-tini). The drinks have the swanky price tag of $11.

To make reservations, call 410-547-8255 for the Baltimore Morton’s or 410-280-1170 for the Annapolis location.

If there are any other restaurants luring in voters with deals, I’d like to hear about them.

October, 31st 2008

Pizza for lunch

Four of us wanted to share a pizza in the office. But we all had different ideas about who has the best pizza. The tiebreaker was Zella’s Pizzeria (1143-45 Hollins St., 410-685-6999, zellaspizzeria.com) in Sowebo. None of us had ever tried its pies, despite great reviews and a Best Pizza nod from the City Paper in 2007. It was definitely time to weigh in on it. The only drawback: It didn’t deliver to our Harbor East location. So we sent our hungriest colleague to pick it up. (Thanks, Max.)

We’re not sure we’d give up our favorite pie palaces, but we all agreed the Sicilian with mozzarella, crispy prosciutto, roasted red peppers, and kalamata olives was a wonderful taste sensation—salty, sweet, and acidic. We also tried a traditional Margarita with mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil, and had mixed reactions. It wasn’t as piquant or bold as the Sicilian, but I really liked the assertive burst of fresh basil leaves. The dough at Zella’s is handmade and hand-tossed. If you like puffy, chewy crusts, this is your pizza. You can also custom make your pizza with a bunch of ingredients, from artichokes to gorgonzola cheese. We’ll definitely try Zella’s again.

12:25 pm Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
October, 29th 2008

Baltimore's newest diner

Zodiac fans can rejoice. The restaurant’s chef Christina DiAngelo will be whipping up favorite dishes at a new, nearby restaurant in the Station North Arts district called Lost City Diner, says owner Joy Martin, who also runs Club Charles.

Zodiac (1726 N. Charles St.) closed suddenly in August when a gas line was cut to the building. The new diner (1730 N. Charles St.) is expected to open in mid-November. But don’t expect to find the typical 1950s décor. This one is taking on the ’30s with a Buck Rogers theme. Look for vintage posters, a rocket ship going through a window, and other nods to the Sci-Fi of the times. And while you’ll find burgers, vegan dishes, and mac-and-cheese, expect a futuristic twist to the preparations, Joy says.

October, 22nd 2008

Night of the Cookers new chef

When chef Joshau Hill left Night of the Cookers last year, the Howard Street restaurant fell off the foodie radar screen. Maybe it’s time to give it another look.

I got a call from Patrick Shirk, the head server and only original wait staff left, praising its new chef, Danielle Kposowa, a Baltimore International College grad who came on board in June. It seems Danielle is whipping up some great stuff in the kitchen, according to Patrick. In addition to entrées like rockfish with red-pepper coulis, she also turns out fancy desserts like Grand Marnier cheesecake. Patrick calls her style "sexy Southern cuisine."

I should mention that Patrick is also the restaurant’s lead cheerleader? He’s planning to send invitations to Mt. Vernon residents welcoming them back to the restaurant. "I believe in the place," Patrick says. I like his spirit.

October, 20th 2008

Pierpoint revisited

I stopped by Pierpoint for dinner on Saturday night and can’t believe I had sort of forgotten about it. When it opened in 1989, it was an instant hit, and it was almost impossible to get a seat at the tiny Fells Point cafe (1822 Aliceanna St., 410-675-2080, pierpointrestaurant.com). Now, it’s getting ready to celebrate its 20th year in Baltimore. Chef/owner Nancy Longo says she has some great things planned. She’ll share them soon.

But back to my dinner, Nancy had an outside engagement that night, so chef de cuisine Eric Vocke took over the kitchen helm, and I’d like to give him a shout out. A diner sitting behind me was very particular about how she wanted her salmon prepared. Honestly, if she hadn’t been serious, it sounded like an SNL skit or Jack Nicholson ordering the chicken salad sandwich in "Five Easy Pieces" with all the demands she was making. But Eric, to his credit, came to her table to make sure he understood just how she wanted the fish cooked. The result? A happy diner, for sure.

I was pretty happy, too. I had the smoked crab cake, a house specialty since the restaurant opened. It was a fist-size ball of crab and smokiness. Later, Eric, who had no idea I was with the magazine, told me the kitchen smokes the crabmeat in a blend of cherry, peach, and hickory woods. It really is a signature dish.

And why was I talking to Eric? He was walking me and a friend to our car. In case you didn’t know, the restaurant provides free, secure parking in a lot right down the street. Eric, obviously a multitasker, was unlocking the parking gate for us between whipping up entrées in the kitchen.  It’s worth a trip to Pierpoint for many reasons, but particularly for the crab cake.

Any other restaurants I should take another look at?

3:18 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs