December, 18th 2009

Desserts at La Diablita

My full review of La Diablita, the new Mexican cantina on the outskirts of Little Italy, will be in our January issue. But I wanted to tell you about the desserts in case you go before then.

When you visit, there’s a good chance you might get sidetracked by the extensive tequila menu, fancy margaritas, and cervezas as well as the fajitas, burritos, tacos, and more. And you should. But don’t leave without ordering a house-made dessert.

The restaurant, whose name means "little devil woman," serves the perfect antidote to all the main-meal Mex flavors. My friends and I tried three, and I’m not sure which one I liked best.

The banana trio features a banana flauta (crispy rolled tortilla), small banana cream pie, and banana butter gelato in a puddle of white-chocolate-and-dulce-de-leche sauce. The traditional tres leches cake is one of the best I’ve had, and it gets extra credit for being topped with tequila-drenched berries.

But I think the churros appealed to me most. These hot, bready, spiral doughnuts are dusted with powdered sugar and served with the above white-chocolate sauce and a berry salsa. It was a sweet way to end a meal.

December, 17th 2009

Restaurant updates

Did anyone notice the name change of Fells Point’s most popular coffeehouse? The Daily Grind is now Fells Grind. Check out the new sign. A barista told me the coffee shop recently broke away from the Daily Grind franchise. It looks the same—shabby, eclectic, and functional—and the coffee is still great.

The Dogwood in Hampden reopens today (Dec. 17). We’re glad chef/co-owner Galen Sampson is back with his sustainable American cuisine. Dinner will be served from 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. (The restaurant is closed Christmas and New Year’s Day.)

Now, you can enjoy chef/co-owner Jason Ambrose’s New American cuisine at Salt Tavern seven days a week. Starting at 4 p.m. Dec. 20, the restaurant, which gave many Baltimoreans their first taste of duck-fat fries, will be open on Sundays. Reservations are accepted.

Meanwhile, The Wine Market in Locust Point is offering a $33 for three courses deal Tuesdays through Thursdays. Diners can also enjoy three suggested wines for $3 a glass with this menu offer.

Choices include dishes like: appetizer, braised veal cheek agnolotti; entree, molasses smoked rib-eye; and dessert, banana-vanilla bean bread pudding. Besides executive chef Jason Lear’s great food, we love the free parking there.

December, 17th 2009

Shop, sip, and savor at Harbor East

Baltimore’s newest shopping and eating destination is celebrating the season with holiday promotions and music by the Junkyard Saints tonight (Dec. 17).

Here are some of the restaurant deals you’ll find this evening:

Cinghiale, $25 a person for a three-course classic, rustic Italian supper.
James Joyce Irish Pub, $4.50 per glass of homemade mulled wine.
Lebanese Taverna, $10 Bubbles and Bites, includes a glass of sparkling pomegranate with a choice of a mezza plate (hummus, cheese pies, kibbeh, or camel wings). It also will expand its happy hour from 5-10 p.m.
Oceanaire, surf and turf special, $29.95.
Pazo, select tapas for $5 each.
Roy’s Hawaiian Fusion, purchase $100 in Roy’s gift cards and receive a $20 bonus card.
Teavolve, 20 percent off any purchase.

11:02 am Comment Count Tags: holidays
December, 16th 2009

A fruitcake story and recipe

Here’s a case where fruitcake is not the butt of a joke. The much-maligned sweet bread figures prominently in A Christmas Memory, a heartwarming holiday book by Truman Capote that always moves me. It’s hard to believe that the same author who penned the chilling In Cold Blood wrote this loving ode.

Capote’s 1956 tale—it’s really more like a short story—is said to be an autobiographical telling of a time during his childhood in Alabama when he lived with his much older cousin Sook Faulk. In the book, the boy is seven; the woman is 60-something. On a certain day each year, the "woman with shorn white hair" wakes up and exclaims, "Oh, my, it’s fruitcake weather." It’s definitely a period piece, though timeless and poignant.

I’ve made traditional fruitcake a few times. The booze-soaked cheesecloth was the key ingredient. I finally gave up when I admitted to myself that I really don’t like the cloying candied fruit, no much how much liquor is in the cake. And then I found a recipe in the cookbook American Favorites by Betty Rosbottom—one of the coolest cooking instructors in the country—that doesn’t call for the awful red and green cherries and citron. This is a cake that people actually request! Try it. It may end the doorstop jokes once and for all.

Fruitcake Hater’s Fruitcake

For the cake

3 large navel oranges

1 cup dried cranberries

¾ cup golden raisins

½ cup dried currants

½ cup chopped dried apricots

2 cups sugar

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup chopped walnuts

For the icing

8 ounces reduced-fat cream cheese, softened

6 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

Optional: dried fruit (cranberries, apricots, golden raisins, and currants) for topping

Arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 325 degrees. To prepare the cake: Butter and flour a 10-inch tube pan. Grate zest from oranges to make 3 tablespoons for cake and 2 teaspoons for icing; set aside. Squeeze oranges to yield 2/3 cup juice for cake and ¼ cup for icing; set aside.

In a medium nonreactive (stainless-steel) saucepan, combine dried cranberries, raisins, currants, apricots, and 2/3 orange juice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes, or until fruit is plumped. Drain well and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, cream sugar and butter with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add 3 tablespoons orange zest and vanilla extract; beat well.

In another large bowl, combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. Alternately, add flour mixture and buttermilk to egg mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Stir in walnuts and fruit. Pour into prepared pan.

Bake until golden brown and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool in pan for 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely, about 1 hour.

To prepare icing: Beat together cream cheese and confectioners’ sugar until smooth. Add reserved ¼ cup orange juice and reserved 2 teaspoons orange zest; beat well. Spread on top of cake. Top with dried fruit, if desired.

(Cake can be made 5 days ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

—From American Favorites by Betty Rosbottom

11:27 am Comment Count Tags: holidays, recipes
December, 15th 2009

Meridian 54 is alive and well

General manager Michael Strati wants everyone to know that Meridian 54 in Canton is open. A few weeks ago, Meridian’s phone was temporarily disconnected, raising questions about the status of the restaurant. The phone problem was a fluke, Strati said.

The restaurant is also tweaking its menu with affordable, under-$20 dishes that will be more Italian-inspired. "We’re leaning toward more neighborhood fare," he said. (This seems to be a trend among restaurants these days.)

There also will be $19 prix-fixe specials, featuring items like New York strip steak, and crab-cake deals on Wednesdays for $11.95. Brunch continues on Saturdays and Sundays with unlimited mimosas, sangria, and bloody Marys.

Formerly called Red Fish, Meridian opened about a year ago. We’re glad to know the restaurant remains viable.

11:59 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
December, 14th 2009

Grind On Cafe closes

But the coffee shop, which also served great organic sandwiches, may not be gone forever. Greg Bandelin, the owner of Grind On, is seeking to open elsewhere on Harford Road, according to Mark Tough, executive director of the Neighborhoods of Greater Lauraville Inc.

We hope so. Grind On, which served Zeke’s Coffee and was picked best coffee shop by City Paper this year, was a charming setting with its sunshine yellow and cheery red décor. We haven’t been able to catch up with Greg, but when we talked to him after the cafe first opened in 2008, he said he was committed to the area. After all, he lives there, too.

5:12 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
December, 10th 2009

The Falls in Mt. Washington opens

The new spot that replaces Freda’s Kitchen has been operating this week, though the hours have been sporadic as co-owners Mike Sproge and Tim Hofmann put the finishing touches on their new cafe. But starting tomorrow (Dec. 11), The Falls will start its official hours from 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

I stopped by The Falls today for a latte ($3) and had a chance to look around. The space has a more comfortable feel than Freda’s. There are soft black couches and brighter-than-white tables and cushioned chairs that add a sophisticated flair. The L-shaped bar with cushioned black stools looks like a place to linger, too.

Mike is looking forward to extending the closing time on weekends if demand merits. "We hope folks will hang out longer, and as people do, we’ll expand the hours," he said.

The menu and prices are being finalized today, so I hope to have more details later. But you can expect espresso drinks, scones, egg combos, pancakes, and sandwiches like a rustic Italian cold cut and a warm grilled chicken with mozzarella, tomato, and pesto. There’s a full bar and a chef (Ian Hommel) in place, who will begin preparing dinner entrées on Saturday (Dec. 12).

Ian is a transplant and formerly worked at the Inn at Shelburne Farms in Vermont, known for its dedication to local products and seasonal fare. He will bring the same inspiration to the food at The Falls, Mike said.

The Falls website is under construction. Its address is 1604 Kelly Ave. Phone is 410-367-7840.

December, 9th 2009

How the AVAM restaurant got its name

Mr. Rain's Fun House, the new restaurant at the American Visionary Art Museum, has to have one of the most unusual names in town. (If you know of other crazy restaurant names, let me know.)

I’m reviewing the restaurant for our February issue (drat, our lengthy publication deadlines), but I thought readers might be curious about the name’s origins before then. Perez Klebahn, the restaurant’s general manager and beverage director, filled me in.

Perez is partners with owners chef Bill Buszinski and his wife Maria, who is Mr. Rain’s business manager. They wanted the restaurant to have synergy with the museum and its Americana when it came to a name, Perez said.

They first settled on "Funhouse" to reflect the museum’s popular Sideshow gift shop. "It’s a little quirky, but it’s supposed to be as fun and offbeat as the museum," Klebahn said. But legally the name was claimed, so they had to embellish  it.

So how did the partners get to the "Mr. Rain" part?" As it turns out, Rain is the middle name of the Buszinskis’ six-year-old son, Jaden Rain. They added "Mr." as an homage to the Beatles’ song
Being for the Benefit of Mr. Kite! Emphasis on "Mr."

You have to love how these people think. But, keep in mind, while their style is playful, the cuisine at Mr. Rain’s—comfort food with cultural influences—is serious business. You won’t be disappointed if you visit.

December, 8th 2009

Rosina Gourmet in Harbor East

Only the new place is going to be called Vino Rosina since it will have a wine bar and be open in the evenings, too. I just talked to owner Jim Lancaster about the shop, which will be on the first level of the Bagby Building at 507 S. Exeter St.

He said it will feature the same great sandwiches plus more gourmet offerings, like small bites, flatbread pizzas, cheeses, exotic olives, good wine—similar to 13.5% wine bar in Hampden. "It’ll be a little upscale." Jim says. "We didn’t want it to compete with our daytime operations [in Canton and downtown]."

The Sun reported today that developers claim the old Bagby Furniture Building is 80 percent leased, which worked for Rosina. "We wanted Harbor East," Jim says. "It’s the hottest, newest spot."

It was also time to create a new market for Rosina, which has been open for 10 years, Jim says. The restaurant is expected to open in early March. Hours will be 11 a.m.-11 p.m., maybe midnight on weekends. It’s perfect timing for Jim since he’s trying to get his next venture done by his 40th birthday in April. It will be quite the celebration.

11:32 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants, wine
December, 7th 2009

Southern style in Canton

Look for Langermann’s, Baltimore’s newest restaurant, to open this weekend (Dec. 12, or sooner) in the old Kiss Cafe space in the Can Company, says chef/owner Neal Langermann. While the cuisine is mostly Southern inspired, diners can also expect to find American regional offerings, too, he says.

The chef, who formerly worked at Georgia Brown’s in DC, says the restaurant’s philosophy is to focus on hospitality and the care of the guests as well as the food. The restaurant will be open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.

Most entrees are priced under $21 and feature dishes such as a pork chop with candied yams, spinach, and Calvados apple jus ($18.95), and shrimp and grits with shallots, tomatoes, and andouille sausage in a buttery clam broth ($17.95). The chef recommends appetizers like the fried green tomatoes with chow-chow ($6.95) and the seared diver scallops with creamed corn and tomato chutney ($8.95). There’s lighter fare, too.

Langermann and managing partner David McGill had been looking for a restaurant spot in Columbia before stumbling on the Canton location. "It was the right place and the right time for us to land," the chef said. "We want it to be a neighborhood restaurant, where people come time and time again."

December, 3rd 2009

Bicycle chef opens new restaurant

Chef Nicholas Batey recently opened Ullswater Restaurant & Wine Bar in South Baltimore with his wife, Saundra Batey, who is the general manager. The menu is Italian inspired with the highest priced item being $18.

This is good news for all the fans of the Bateys’ former restaurant The Bicycle, which closed this summer. While the award-winning restaurant was successful on weekends, it didn’t attract a large enough midweek crowd to make it financially viable, said Saundra, when I talked to her today. "We couldn’t afford to keep it open," she said.

But she is very excited about the new venture, Ullswater, which is named after a picture of England’s Lake Ullswater that inspired chef Batey when he was working in Florida. And it’s found a niche in the new place, too. "It’s everywhere," said Saundra, laughing. "In the bathrooms, in the hallways. He loves that picture."

In addition to a variety of pasta dishes and entrees like grilled salmon and pork cacciatore, the two-story restaurant will serve casual fare like burgers, sandwiches, and salads. Those items aren’t Italian, acknowledged Saundra, but, "We want to take care of the neighborhood people, so they don’t leave the neighborhood."

In the next few weeks, chef Batey will also be adding some Bicycle favorites to the menu for diners who frequented the Federal Hill restaurant. For now, the restaurant is serving dinner, but starting Dec. 14, Ullswater will begin offering lunch.

The wine list is divided into Italian and non-Italian offerings with prices by the glass starting at $5. Also, look for happy-hour specials from 5-7 p.m. Monday-Thursday and late-night deals on Fridays and Saturdays. Ullswater’s goal, said Saundra, is to be "affordable."

December, 1st 2009

Wine Wednesdays

And they’re free! Thank you, Radisson Hotel at Cross Keys. The first one starts tomorrow (Dec. 2) from 6:30-8 p.m. at the hotel.

The event will feature three wines from Basignani Winery in Sparks, which will be paired with appetizers from the new farm-to-table menu at the hotel’s Crossroads Restaurant.

Representative from the winery will be on hand to discuss the wines: Piccolo, Chardonnay, and Riesling.  Of course, if a sampling isn’t enough, guests will be able to buy a glass or bottle of the wines that night.

The next Wine Wednesday will be Dec. 16 and feature wines from Woodhall Wine Cellars in Parkton.

2:04 pm Comment Count Tags: events
December, 1st 2009

Top Google recipe searches

What did we want to eat this year? A Google exec was on the Today show this morning recapping top searches for 2009. Called "Google Zeitgeist" by the company, it shows what Americans are interested in during the year.

When it comes to recipes, we’re clearly in a comfort-food mode. The most popular searches were: chili, meatloaf, cheesecake, banana bread, and pancakes.

I thought it was interesting that more than nine million of us wanted to make chili. But then my most recent recipe search was for chicken-noodle soup. I was looking for a variation of my own.

In the bigger picture, the top overall searches were for Lady Gaga and swine flu. This stuff fascinates me. You can find more information on the morning show’s website.

11:58 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
November, 30th 2009

Celeb sighting at RA

Actor Geoff Stults ("The Break Up" with Jennifer Aniston and "Wedding Crashers") and Stacy Keibler, a former professional wrestling diva and Dancing with the Stars contestant, dined at RA Sushi in Harbor East on Friday night, according to Bridget Forney of Profiles media-relations agency.

The two are rumored to be dating, she said. Stacy is a Baltimore native, and Geoff was here for the Thanksgiving holiday.

The couple was spotted eating the Viva Las Vegas roll, Tootsy Maki, Lobster and Shrimp roll, and Crispy Onion Albacore and Salmon Carpaccio.

3:23 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
November, 27th 2009

Party at Pazo

Pazo—one of Baltimore magazine’s top 50 restaurants—is celebrating its five-year anniversary with two parties on Tuesday (Dec. 1). The first is a happy-hour celebration from 5-7 p.m. It will feature complimentary tapas in addition to a selection of cocktails and other small plates for $5 each.

The second event is from 9 p.m.-2 a.m. that night and promises to be a glam show. Tickets are $35 and must be purchased in advance. The party includes tapas served from 9-11 p.m., a glass of Cava to greet guests, a cake by Duff Goldman and Charm City Cakes, and music by DJ Ryan Patrick.

A highlight will be a Super Art Fight, where two artists compete to design a piece based on audience suggestions. There will be a silent auction for the finished work with proceeds benefiting the programs at the House of Ruth.

Sounds like a great way to kick off December.

12 issues for $18!