April, 20th 2010

A farm-to-table cook-off

Eat local food prepared by great chefs and help kids learn about nutrition. It’s that easy if you attend the first The Farmer and The Chef culinary competition tomorrow (April 21) at The Renaissance Hotel at Harborplace. Tickets are still available.

And I have the pleasure of being one of the judges. I use the word "pleasure" loosely. I already eat out enough reviewing restaurants, but this is for such a good cause that I couldn’t refuse. And I’m sure I will enjoy tasting the dishes. But I see more Lean Cuisines in my future.

The event, sponsored by the Baltimore chapter of the American Institute of Wine and Food, benefits the group’s Days of Taste program, which helps fourth and fifth graders learn about food and nutrition.

The lineup of chefs is impressive, including Ned Atwater of Atwater’s Bakery, Bill Crouse of Sotto Sopra, Dan Henry of The Capital Grille, Sandy Lawler of Feast@4East, and Jesse Pancakes Sandlin, who competed on Bravo’s Top Chef.

Guests get to judge, too, selecting a "People’s Favorite." The competition starts at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $65. Call 410-244-0044 or e-mail for information. Hope to see you there!

11:46 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
April, 19th 2010

Who will be the Mason Dixon top chef?

Local chefs will battle each other for the title in a multi-week event that begins May 10. The real winner is Moveable Feast— a nonprofit that delivers meals to people with AIDS, breast cancer, and other life-threatening conditions—which will receive 10 percent of the proceeds.

Here’s how it works. Thirty-two teams (a chef and sous chef) will face off in single-elimination events. There will be two cook-offs each week for 16 weeks held at the Grand Ballroom at The Belvedere.

The first go-round features Stephen Carey of Milan against Mark Ricker of Morsel. On May 11, Matthew Merkel of The Reserve challenges Antonios Minadakis of Jimmy’s Famous Seafood. And so on. Check out complete information on the Mason Dixon website.

Judges include Jerry Pellegrino, Sergio Vitale, and Damon Hersh among other local celebs and foodies.

Guests can select two ticket levels. General admission ($55 each, including tax and gratuity) includes a gourmet four-course meal and a chance to be guest judge from a random selection. For $75, visitors receive a four-course meal, reserved VIP seating, and will be able to taste and vote alongside the tournament’s celebrity judges.

Each evening’s event begins with a happy hour at 5 p.m. and dinner at 6:30 p.m., followed by the competition at 8 p.m. and judging beginning at 9 p.m. Tickets are available on the website. Good luck, chefs.

8:22 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
April, 15th 2010

Tonight's tax rebates

Juana Burrito, Baltimore’s newest mobile food truck, will be serving up tacos for a buck (instead of $3) from 9 p.m. to 12:01 a.m. tonight (April 15) at the main post office on Fayette Street for last-minute tax filers. (Thanks for the tip, Downtown Diane.)

The burrito truck will also be offering its signature dishes at lunchtime today from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. at The Rotunda on W. 40th St. if you’d like to get a head start.

Also, Sotto Sopra Restaurant has a $1 pasta deal tonight from 5-10 p.m. Ease your tax pain with spaghetti alla Bolognese, penne with salmon and Pernod, and rigatoni with eggplant and mozzarella among other great plates.

Or you can make a donation to the Kennedy Krieger Institute, which helps children and teens with brain disorders. Restaurant reservations are required.

8:52 am Comment Count Tags: events
April, 14th 2010

Sound bites from Michael Pollan

The author of Omnivore’s Dilemma, who became a crusader for organic food and a foe of feedlots because of a woodchuck (more later!), drew an overflow crowd of about 1,000 to Goucher College last night.

The conversational, on-stage chat with Goucher president Sanford Ungar, whom many students informally call "Sandy," was relaxed, funny, and informative (essentially, "You are what you eat eats, too"). Here are some of Pollan’s thoughts.

But, first, I have to comment on Pollan’s appearance. He’s lanky, balding, wears glasses, and had on the tightest jeans I think I’ve ever seen on a guy, including Mick Jagger. (If that’s what his diet does, I’m in.) He looked Berkeley (CA, where he lives) hip, though, with a pink, untucked button-down shirt, a dark gray sports coat, and boots. He’d easily fit into any newsroom or coffee shop around the country.

Okay, back to snippets of what he said.

—About meat: "I do eat meat (sustainably raised). I don’t eat feedlot meat or fast-food hamburgers or chickens." He likes rabbit. "It tastes just like chicken, I swear."

—Fast-food restaurants. It was thumbs down for all of them, except Chipotle. "I wish we had more of them," he said, referring to the Mexican food chain and citing the restaurant’s local sourcing of meat and cooking everything fresh. It’s probably no surprise that he dissed KFC’s new DoubleDown (two pieces of fried chicken sandwiching bacon, cheese, and a secret sauce). "You can eat three animals," he said in awe, or horror, of the combo.

—Pollan’s food weakness? "I really like cheese," especially French Morbier. After he said that, Ungar joked that there would be a run on the cheese in Towson, where Goucher is located. Pollan explained that the delectable cheese has a thin layer of ash in the middle separating cheese made from morning milk and cheese made from evening milk. (Locally, you can find it at Whole Foods for $17.99 a pound; at Wegmans, for $25.99 a pound among other places.)

—How to beat the growing problems of obesity and diabetes 2. "The key is getting off processed food."

—About the higher cost of organic food. "If you can invest time instead of money, you can eat more cheaply," he said, referring to cooking at home. But he added that we should consider the people who grow our food. "We need to pay farmers a living wage," he said, to which the audience applauded loudly.

—At restaurants. "I don’t order meat unless they can tell me where they’re getting their meats. I get fish or go vegetarian."

He also talked about the impact of politics on food production, First Lady Michelle Obama’s efforts to educate children about food origins, the growth of local farmers’ markets, movements to improve school lunches, irradiation of meat and poultry, and much more—all with his trademark approachable style.

He also took several questions from Goucher students. The two hours flew by, and then he signed books.

And back to that woodchuck, who started Pollan’s mission. The short synopsis of the story is that he had a garden, a woodchuck kept eating his plants, he tried to match wits with the critter ("It became my horticultural Vietnam"), and lost. He bought a fence.

But the incident made him realize that "there must be a better way to deal with the natural world," he said. "The garden is one (place). Your plate is another."

He’s been writing about the food world every since.

1:09 pm Comment Count Tags: events
April, 14th 2010

New at Pazo

Tony Foreman, co-owner and wine director of Pazo restaurant, will take over as the restaurant’s new executive chef, showcasing a selection of signature items along with several traditional favorites currently offered, according to a press release sent out this morning.

Foreman will be joined in the kitchen by Mario Cano-Catalan as chef du cuisine. Mario has worked for Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf for the past 10 years, and was part of the opening team at both Pazo and Cinghiale, most recently as sous chef at Cinghiale.

Several dishes on the Pazo menu will now reflect a western Mediterranean influence, including a traditional arroz la bomba (a rice dish with grilled chicken and chorizo, or heads on shrimp, mussels, octopus, monkfish with lobster stock and saffron, or a vegetable option with mushroom confit, artichoke, and tomato); a variety of seafood cooked a la plancha (grilled on a metal plate); goat's cheese empanadas; and various cuts of beef as well as rack of lamb and duck breast cooked on a wood-fired grill.

Breads will still baked in-house fresh every day. Now, they will be offered with a selection of dips, from a warm cheese fondue to grilled eggplant salad and olive tapenade.

Foreman—who also owns Petit Louis Bistro, Charleston, and Cinghiale with Cindy Wolf—says he wants the food at Pazo to be joyful. "It's just natural and fun to do it myself this time," he says.

April, 13th 2010

HuffPost and beer brownies

Huffington Post launched a new online food section yesterday (April 12). I can already tell it’s going to be one of my favorite places to go for food news, recipes, and restaurant happenings.

There’s so much more than just recipes on the site, but I really liked this one by personal chef Claire Thomas and can’t wait to make it. She calls the brownies "awesome." Check out her blog The Kitchy Kitchen, too.

Beer brownies

3 1⁄2 ounces dark chocolate (70 percent cocoa and up)
2 tablespoons instant espresso
8 tablespoons of butter
4 eggs, at room temp
1 cup white sugar
1 cup brown sugar, loose, not packed
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (Claire used Valrhona)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons vanilla paste (or extract)
1 cup malty beer (She used the Bruery's Rugbrod, a Danish Rye Beer, but a Belgian Quad, a Stout, or a Porter would work, she writes)
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 cup walnuts, halved and toasted lightly

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and pop in the walnuts until just toasted, about 5 minutes. Sift together the flour, spices, and cocoa powder. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate, instant espresso and butter in a bowl over boiling water, add the beer and stir to combine, then let cool. Beat together the eggs and sugar until thick and shiny. Continue beating on low while adding flour mixture and wet ingredients alternatively. Finish with the vanilla. Do not over mix. Fold in the chips. Pour into a buttered and floured 9 x 13 pan and sprinkle the walnuts on top. Bake for 30-35 minutes.

Photo by Claire Thomas

9:34 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
April, 9th 2010

Goucher to live stream Michael Pollan

All the seats for the Michael Pollan talk at Goucher have been claimed. But, don’t worry, you can still see him if you don’t have tickets.

The Towson college will be live streaming the event, which starts at 8 p.m. Tuesday (April 13), so you can hear what the bestselling author has to say. Pollan, a well-known critic of the world’s industrial food system, isn’t known for mincing words. One of his most popular books is Omnivore's Dilemma.

To watch the lecture via computer, go to Goucher’s home page on Tuesday. There will be prompts for logging onto the real-time streaming. The video will not be archived, so you have to watch the talk at 8, says Kristen Keener, Goucher’s director of media relations.

I got tickets weeks ago and will also blog about it. Right now, I’m reading Pollan's book In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto. The short opening paragraph is powerful: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."

But I love that Pollan isn’t anti-meat. He recommends making it a side dish. Works for me. I’m so susceptible to these food arguments. Since seeing the film Food Inc., I can only eat organic yogurt by Stoneyfield!

10:43 am Comment Count Tags: events
April, 9th 2010

O's on a roll

Opening day is so much fun. And RA Sushi in Harbor East is once again offering the O’s roll— an eight-piece spicy lobster roll topped with fresh salmon and avocado drizzled with an orange spicy mayo sauce ($11). It's available daily during baseball season, but if you have a game ticket stub, you get $2 off on game days.

Sounds like a winner to me. Let’s hope the O’s show their stuff against the Toronto Blue Jays this afternoon.

April, 7th 2010

Greek revelation

Sometimes, restaurant news happens when you least expect it. I went outside to mail some letters and stopped to watch a sign being installed on the Harbor East building where the Baltimore magazine offices are located on Lancaster Street. It was announcing a new Greek restaurant, right in my building!

At the same time, Alex Smith, who is getting ready to open the All-American Deli and Pizzeria, where Elevation Burger used to be, walked up with two business partners, who will be involved in the Greek restaurant. Details are still sketchy. Smith, who also owns the nearby Häagen-Dazs, is concentrating on the deli right now, which he plans to open in two weeks.

Then, the next project will be the Greek place, which the sign promises will have "authentic cuisine." There’s no name yet, but the owners hope to have construction done by the end of the year. There’s talk of outside sidewalk tables and a deck across the street. I hope it lives up to expectations.

April, 7th 2010

Tonight's Top Chef Masters

Baltimore has a connection to season two of Top Chef Masters. Chef Monica Pope, Goucher College class of 1985, will be competing against 21 other chefs in the Bravo premiere that airs at 11 p.m. tonight (April 7).

After Goucher, Monica went on to establish herself impressively on the culinary scene. She is a 2007 James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef: Southwest and is the owner of the restaurants t’afia and Beaver’s in Houston.

She also was named 2009’s Best Chef at the Houston Culinary Awards and was the only Texas woman ever to be named a Top 10 Best New Chef by Food & Wine magazine.

Monica isn’t able to disclose the outcome of the contest, but we hear that she fared well. Go, Monica.

Photo courtesy of Bravo

1:28 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
April, 6th 2010

What’s next at Miss Irene’s?

How about Cobblestone Corner? The newest rendition of the Fells Point space is expected to open April 23. It will be owned and operated by the same family who has run Edie’s Deli & Grill on West Pratt Street for 10 years.

I just talked to Edie Chin, who will be operating the former neighborhood bar turned bistro at 1738 Thames St. with her husband Jimmy and daughter, Erica Russo.

She said they plan to run a restaurant and pub that will appeal to families (with a children’s menu) but also to night-lifers with live music. They also would like to attract the area’s dog walkers with outside water bowls and treats.

The décor will be similar to the previous restaurant, but the family has opened up some walls. There will be a game room with high-top tables. But the pool table is gone.

"We want people to feel comfortable and give them good food," said Edie. "We want a family place with a pub."

Good food will very much be the focus, she said, with a reliance on fresh, local products and house-made dishes. (After all, this a woman who steams her own chickens for her deli chicken salad.) The menu will range from duck breast to bison burgers.

They plan to be open for lunch and dinner and offer Saturday and Sunday brunch. "We’re going to work hard at it," Edie said. I believe her.

April, 5th 2010

Hot diggity dog

Stuggy’s Old Fashioned Hot Dogs and Sausages opened today (April 5). The carryout shop is sure to fill a food gap in Fells Point.

I just happened to be walking by and decided to peek inside when I was told it was the first day of business. Stuggy’s (809 S. Broadway) must be hitting the right notes. The tip jar was almost full.

I already had lunch so I’ll have to go back and try the dogs myself soon. Maybe tomorrow. The menu is tempting, with items like the Bmore Dog (all-beef, quarter-pound jumbo kosher hot dog, grilled baloney, and deli mustard), the Wild Thing (bison sausage, blue cheese, and diced raw onions), and The Cuban (jumbo dog, pickle spear, pulled pork, baked Virginia ham, Swiss, and mojo sauce).

Prices range from $3.99 to $7.99 for individual dogs and sausages, or there are combo meals that include a drink and fries. Stuggy’s also has fried Oreo cookies ($2.29).

I have to stop writing. I’m making myself hungry. I may have to go back this afternoon!

2:12 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
April, 2nd 2010

Grilled cheese, anyone?

April is national grilled-cheese month, a new grilled-cheese restaurant opens on Monday (April 5),  and Mt. Washington Tavern unveils three new grilled-cheese sandwiches.

All this talk about grilled cheese sent me to Teavolve in Harbor East today for its adult grilled-cheese panini. It was a perfect choice for a meatless Good Friday. The hot, crunchy sandwich was stuffed with gooey feta, fresh mozzarella, and goat cheese. Definitely, not what Mom used to make.

Mom wasn't the inspiration for Vic Corbi either. He got the idea for his new Catonsville restaurant Grilled Cheese & Co. in an interesting way. About six years ago, he dreamed he was selling grilled-cheese sandwiches, he says. He shared that vision with his golf buddy Matt Lancelotta, who used to own the Federal Hill bar Light Street Station (now the Row House Grille).

Now, the dream has come to fruition in the first of what owners Vic and Matt hope will be a franchise operation. They’ve already had a lot of interest, Vic says.

For now, the focus is on the new place. Menu choices include The Original  (grilled American cheese) and Veggie Delight (Havarti with roasted veggies and wild mushrooms). Of course, there are soups, including cream of tomato basil, and other offerings. Hours are 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

Mt. Washington Tavern also had cheese on its mind. Its new sandwiches include wheat-berry bread with manchego and prosciutto ham; thick rye with American cheese, applewood bacon, and tomato; and wheat-berry bread with Vermont cheddar, Havarti, goat cheese, and tomato.

Who said April is the cruelest month?

Stock photo

April, 1st 2010

Milan starts Sunday brunch

Milan, the new Italian/Mediterranean restaurant on the edge of Little Italy and Harbor East, will be offering brunch on Sundays, beginning April 4 (Easter Sunday).

Brunch will be served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. It’s an a la carte menu prepared by executive chef Stephen Carey. The glitzy dining room and outdoor patio would be a great place to show off your Easter bonnet.

April, 1st 2010

Grano opens for lunch

No April’s Fool’s joke! Grano Pasta Bar in Hampden is serving lunch now, starting today (April 1), on Wednesdays-Sundays from 11:30 a.m-1 p.m. However, it won’t be open on Easter Sunday, said Grano’s personable owner Gino Troia, who wants his employees to enjoy the holiday.

Gino also said he has brought in a chef from Florence to take on the cooking duties. If you haven’t been to the restaurant on Chestnut Avenue, around the corner from its smaller offshoot, Little Grano on The Avenue, you’ll find great pasta dishes and a warm, neighborhood spirit.

But it’s a tiny (and cute) space with small dining rooms on two levels. It gets crowded pretty quickly. For that reason, Gino said he’s decided not to accept reservations anymore unless it’s a party of 10 or larger. He’s hoping to better accommodate his guests, he said.

Dinner is still offered from 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. It's BYO with a reasonable $3 corkage fee per bottle. Little Grano opens at 11:30 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays and is closed on Sundays. See you soon in Hampden, Hon.