February, 10th 2010

Raid the pantry and make this pasta recipe

staples-jpeg.jpgAre you a pantry procrastinator? These snowstorms have made me realize the necessity of keeping my own shelves at home better stocked—especially since I couldn’t bear to go to the grocery store yesterday on the eve of Snowmageddon Part 2.

 

I found a helpful checklist on Real Simple’s website that I plan to use in the future. It recommends items like olive oil, balsamic vinegar, marinara sauce, and pasta for your cupboards; butter, eggs, Dijon mustard, and carrots for the fridge; and bread, spinach, shrimp, and bacon for the freezer.

 

A lot of the stuff is obvious, but the list is a good reminder of basics to have on hand for future cooking emergencies. I, fortunately, had several of the products, which helped me out this morning when I made this hearty, do-ahead recipe for dinner.

Make-Ahead Manicotti

1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese

2 large eggs

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and well drained

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided

1 tablespoon sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

12 uncooked manicotti shells

1 (24-ounce) jar spaghetti sauce

Stir together ricotta cheese and eggs until blended. Stir in spinach, mozzarella cheese, 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, and next three ingredients, through pepper. Stuff mixture into uncooked (yes, uncooked) manicotti shells.

Spread 1/2 cup spaghetti sauce in bottom of a lightly greased 12- x 9-inch baking dish. Arrange stuffed shells in a single layer over sauce. Pour remaining sauce over shells, covering shells completely. Cover dish with aluminum foil and refrigerate eight hours. (This step is important to allow the pasta to cook properly.)

Later (after shoveling snow, watching TV, or eating bonbons) bake, covered, at 400 degrees for 40 minutes. Sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese and bake 15 more minutes. Makes six servings.

—Adapted from Southern Living magazine

4:16 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
February, 9th 2010

Good luck, Elizabeth

The Sun’s restaurant critic Elizabeth Large announced her retirement today on her blog Dining@Large. Her departure will certainly change the scenery of restaurant coverage in Baltimore.

I feel lucky to have worked with Elizabeth when I was at The Sun and to have cut my food-reviewing teeth under her gaze. She’s a pro. She is kind. And she is just a really nice person.

Elizabeth, I hope you’re going to write a tell-all or, at least, a memoir of all your eating adventures. It would be fascinating.

2:30 pm Comment Count Tags: events
February, 9th 2010

Ready or not, here comes Valentine's Day

mortons-cake.jpgAfter this week’s snow, people are going to be ready to go out and celebrate the annual lovers holiday. Here are some of the restaurant goings-on planned for Valentine’s Day weekend. Reservations are a good idea. Let’s hope the weather doesn’t interfere.

Morton’s The Steakhouse: The restaurant celebrates Valentine’s Day throughout February with its Signature three-course menu for two. It includes choices like Caesar salad, single cut filets with seafood and side dishes, and Morton’s hot-chocolate cake, pictureed, for $99.99 plus $39 with a wine pairing.

Pazo: Pick your price point. On Feb. 13 and 14, the restaurant will offer a selection of multi-course, prix-fixe menus for $39, $59, $69, and $79 a person. Wine pairings will also be available. Check out the menus online.

Slainte Irish Pub and Restaurant: Three courses for $70 a couple includes a glass of rosé. The Feb. 14 menu includes oysters on the half shell, New York strip steak with Irish blue-cheese butter, and Guinness bread pudding.

Kooper’s Tavern: Three courses for $70 a couple, includes a glass of rosé. The Feb. 14 menu includes jumbo shrimp and crab with ginger cocktail sauce for two, steamed Maine lobster, and chocolate spoon cake.

Miss Shirley’s: Once a year, the restaurant, known for its sumptuous breakfasts and lunches, transforms into a dinner destination. Both locations (Pratt Street and Cold Spring Lane) will be offering a three-course menu for $50 a person (plus tax and gratuity) from 5:30-10 p.m. Feb. 14. The menu includes seafood bisque, wedge salad, grilled swordfish, New York strip steak, grilled vegetable strudel, and chocolate raspberry truffle tart. Select wines are available by the glass or bottle.

4 East Madison Inn: A Valentine’s dinner will be offered Feb. 12 and 13. The menu includes a house-made charcuterie assortment ($8); fresh orange, roasted beets, and goat-cheese salad ($8); bison tenderloin steak ($24, includes vegetables and potatoes); and red-velvet cake ($7).

Thyme for You: Okay, this isn’t a restaurant, but it’s a personal-chef service to enjoy in the comfort of your own home. The chef will make a personalized menu just for you and your sweetie. Prices vary.

B&O American Brasserie: In addition to the regular menu, the restaurant will offer a three-course menu for $36 or five courses for $52 on Feb. 13 and 14. The three-course option includes crab bisque, lamb loin or braised shank, and sugar doughnut holes. The five-course menu adds courses of grilled boneless quail and crispy skinned barramundi.

Rams Head Tavern, Annapolis: Make reservations Feb. 14 in the dining room and receive a complimentary split of Freixenet and chocolate-covered strawberries.

Milan: Baltimore’s newest restaurant is offering a four-course, prix fixe menu Feb. 12-14 for $75 a person. It includes complimentary  champagne and a single, long-stemmed rose. Entrees feature choices like linguine with shrimp and lobster in a brandied garlic cream sauce, and filet mignon with a lobster tail. Save room for desserts like chocolate fudge cake and honey ricotta cheesecake.

1:23 pm Comment Count Tags: holidays
February, 5th 2010

I went to the Giant—and survived

I know. I should have gone to the grocery store earlier this week, but I just couldn’t get there. So this morning, there I was, circling the parking lot at the Loch Raven Towson store looking for a place to park along with dozens of other procrastinators. Not a good sign.

Another bad omen: There were no carts to be found near the store. Bracing myself, I entered the mayhem. I was still shocked. Whole shelves, bins, display cases were empty of products. Did everyone really need bagged lettuce, all manner of cheese, frozen pizzas, and store-made coffeecakes? I didn’t dare go near the toilet-paper aisle.

My list wasn’t extensive (cat litter—thank you, Miss Kitty—and ingredients to make a balsamic chicken dish with pepper-spiked polenta. I’m guilty of snow cooking, too), but the lines to the checkout were at least 10 deep at each register. And that’s where the fun began as people cajoled for a better spot, bemoaned their purchases, and became fast friends in the shopping-cart melee.

There was one woman who blamed her husband for making her come to the store for just salsa and chips. We commiserated knowingly. (A kind person let her move up in line.) There was a guy who became a standup comedian. ("When I came in here, I didn’t need a shave.") And there was another gent who worried about going through the self-checkout for the first time. We supported him.

Somehow, we all got through it. One thing is certain, though. There is going to be a lot of cooking and snacking going on as Mother Nature whips up her own brew outside. Be safe. Eat well.

4:34 pm Comment Count Tags: events
February, 2nd 2010

Canton CakeLove closes

cakelove-jpeg.jpgAfter opening in February 2008 to much fanfare, CakeLove in Canton served its last sweet treats on Sunday (Jan. 31), the Baltimore Business Journal reported today.

The cake company’s website confirms the closure, though it gives no reason why. CakeLove has several other stores in Virginia, Washington, and the Maryland DC burbs. The cupcakes certainly had their naysayers, but it's still sad to see another Baltimore shop go out of business.

12:40 pm Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
February, 1st 2010

New owners for Pazza Luna

In a quick turnaround, Pazza Luna closed Sunday and reopens tomorrow (Feb. 2) with new owners Christa and Davide Rossi. Chef Davide, a native of Milan, Italy, is introducing a new menu but will honor Restaurant Week (which runs through Feb. 7) reservations with the promised selections, he said on the phone this afternoon.

The acquisition happened fast, the chef said. He was on a beach in Key West, FL, last week when he got a call that the Locust Point restaurant was available. The couple, who also own a seasonal restaurant, Ports of Italy, in Boothbay Harbor, Maine, decided to take advantage of the offer.

According to Ports of Italy’s website, Christa, who grew up in Baltimore, and Davide met while he was a pasta chef at Baltimore’s Sotto Sopra and she worked in the front of the house. They then lived and worked in Milan before returning to the United States in 2004 to open Ports of Italy.

There, the chef creates "authentic Northern Italian dishes with an innovative twist, featuring fresh handmade pasta and risotto which changes daily," the website says.

For now, Pazza Luna will be open from 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Davide says he plans to eventually be open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

January, 29th 2010

Top Chefs at the Aquarium

jesse-sandlin.jpgMaryland cheftestants Jesse Sandlin, Bryan Voltaggio, and Jill Snyder will be preparing dishes at the National Aquarium’s next "Fresh Thoughts: A Sustainable Seafood Dining Series." Tickets go on sale Feb. 8.

The lineup: Jesse (pictured, though her hair color may be different now), March 23; Bryan, May 18; and Jill, June 22. For more details, check out the March issue of Baltimore magazine.

January, 28th 2010

Eat and get free movie passes

valentinesday-jpeg.jpgB&O American Brasserie is offering a pair of free tickets to see an advance screening on Feb. 9 of the movie Valentine’s Day . Here’s the deal: Eat at the restaurant on Feb. 7 or 8 and receive the passes (limit two tickets per person per table) with the purchase of dessert. It's probably a good idea to make reservations.

The restaurant, under the helm of chef E. Michael Reidt, has also introduced some new additions to the menu. On the dinner menu, you’ll find entrees like arctic char, sweet potato gnocchi, rosemary-skewered scallops, and adobo braised pork shank.

In case you haven’t seen the TV commercials for Valentine’s Day, the movie features an all-star ensemble cast, including Jessica Alba, Jessica Biel, Patrick Dempsey, Julia Roberts, and Ashton Kutcher (pictured with Jennifer Garner, also in the film), and involves couples and singles in L.A. grappling with romance over the course of one Valentine’s Day. Sounds like a date movie to me.

Photo: courtesy imbd.com

January, 27th 2010

Thoughts on the Boccaccio auction

boccaccio-jpeg.jpgI received an e-mail today about the Boccaccio auction from Tom Iacoboni, who keeps tabs on Little Italy happenings. The once popular restaurant on the corner of Eastern Avenue and Exeter Street shut down after owner Giovanni Rigato died in August ’08. It’s been closed ever since.

Now, the restaurant—lock, stock, and barrel—will be auctioned on Feb. 17 with A.J. Billig & Co. handling the proceedings. The auctioneer’s prose on its website is very persuasive: "Boccaccio Restaurant has been a Baltimore institution for over 17 years featuring Baltimore's finest northern Italian cuisine. ...The property is situated in the heart of Baltimore's most exciting and vibrant redevelopment community." It goes on to say the building is in the Harbor East area.

Of course, the neighborhood has been called Little Italy for decades. But this isn’t the first time someone has wanted to associate with Baltimore’s glitzy neighborhood. The chic, new Milan advertises as being on the "edge of Harbor East and Little Italy."

Yet, a block away Café Gia and Tapabar firmly claim Little Italy as their home. I guess someone is going to have to make a decision soon about what to call that stretch of Eastern Avenue.

Also, while the Boccaccio footprint with its spacious building, liquor license, and rare downtown parking lot seems like a perfect restaurant spot, the auctioneer also assures potential buyers that the "property is suitable for numerous alternative uses including offices and retail."

What would you like to see there?

12:31 pm Comment Count Tags: events, restaurants
January, 22nd 2010

Guest bloggers on Joe Squared

pizza-joe-squared.jpgJames and Austin Carpenter, the husband-wife owners of Swirl Wine in Timonium, send out a weekly e-mail about their free Friday wine tastings. This week, they also talked about a recent visit to Joe Squared, which I thought was great. They agreed to let me share their experience:

"The other night, after we closed the shop, we went to our favorite place for pizza, a place downtown called Joe Squared. They have a coal-fired oven that makes heavenly, thin-crust, delicate pizza, with fresh toppings in a cool, hipster, artsy ambiance. We saddled up at the bar, ordered a Hawaiian pizza and got something to wet our whistle.

There was a lot of activity up front, where they usually have bands play, as a DJ was setting up his elaborate equipment and people were starting to gather. It seemed that we stumbled across an underground break-dance party that was just about to begin. Crazy-retro!

Austin and I had a perfect angle to view all the action from our seats at the dimly lit bar. A circle of eclectic people formed by the DJ, and when I say eclectic, I really mean it. There was a guy with his face painted like a skull (Austin wanted to stick around to see his dance, cause you know, a guy with his face painted has got to be good). We devoured our pizza as the dancers would take their turn, one by one, in the center of the circle to maneuver and thrust their bodies to the high tempo beats.

After watching this old style of dance, that we thought was extinct, but evidently is making a comeback, we thought we'd apply the same thought process to our tasting this week. You know the saying, what once was old, is now new, so let's revisit some oldies but goodies."

So today (Jan. 22), James and Austin will be featuring Merlot at their wine tasting. As James said in the e-mail, "Let's bring it back, baby. Fall in love with Merlot all over again."

I’ve been to the couple’s wine tastings, and they are so much fun. Stop by the store for the free sips and snacks between 4-7 p.m. Fridays. You’ll enjoy it.

But more on Joe Squared. In one of those Smalltimore moments, owner Joe Edwardsen called me this week. He said his new restaurant, Cuadrado, across from his pizza restaurant is still on track.

Joe hopes for a March opening. I was glad to get the update. I had blogged about Cuadrado last February. It will be a take on a Mexican barbeque place. The name is Spanish for "squared," of course.

January, 21st 2010

Duff on Iron Chef

duff-photo.jpgNext stop for Baltimore’s Duff Goldman (Charm City Cakes, Ace of Cakes) is on the Food Network’s Iron Chef at 10 p.m. Feb. 6. The baker goes against chef Michael Symon, owner of the well-regarded restaurants Lola and Lolita in his hometown Cleveland.

Duff will be put to the test with sweet and savory dishes. As the Food Network press release says, "Will he withstand the heat of Kitchen Stadium, or will he feel the singe of defeat to Iron Chef Symon?" Stay tuned.

In a not-so-positive ranking, New York Times writer Jon Caramanica recently called Ace of Cakes the worst reality show out of 348 on The Awl website. (You have to scroll to the bottom of the post to get his verdict on Ace of Cakes.) His fave: The Bachelorette (season 5). You be the judge.

6:11 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
January, 21st 2010

Help Haiti

BOP Pizza in Fells Point is donating 100 percent of its proceeds today (Jan. 21) to Haitian relief efforts. What a great opportunity to help out the disaster victims. The brick-oven pizza place on South Broadway is open till midnight.

January, 20th 2010

Looking for Châteaubriand

An out-of-towner is looking for a place to take his wife for Châteaubriand. When I got the request, I was stumped. It’s a classic French recipe you don’t see on most Baltimore menus these days.

I did remember it was offered at Blue Hill Tavern in Brewers Hill. I didn’t order it when I was reviewing the restaurant, but now I’d like to go back and try it. It’s $52 for two people.

The beef dish used to be on the menu at Tersiguel’s in Ellicott City, but no more. The restaurant now offers viande du marché (featured meat of the day).

All is not lost. The kitchen will be happy to prepare Châteaubriand for guests, a manager told me by phone.

Diners just need to tell their server when they’re seated that they’d like the preparation. They don’t need to call in advance. It costs the same as two filet mignons, the manager said, which, according to Tersiguel’s online menu, is $77.50 for two.

I also located the dish—said to be named after a 19th century French statesman— at Cafe Normandie on Main Street in Annapolis. It's $71.95 for two.

While researching this, I had to brush up on my Châteaubriand speak. I found (thanks to Food Lover’s Companion) that the meat is usually taken from the center of the tenderloin and grilled or broiled and served with Béarnaise sauce and potatoes sautéed in butter.

Maybe it’s too rich, and pricey, for our economically-strained palates to be readily available. Has anyone had it elsewhere? Thanks on behalf of our visitor.

12:04 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
January, 15th 2010

Basta Pasta in Timonium

The locally owned Fallston restaurant is opening a second Basta Pasta in the old Steak & Ale spot in Timonium. The target date is Feb. 1, said manager Matt Clary.

The new restaurant, which has seven separate dining rooms, has been refurbished with paint, new flooring, and lots of granite. The owners—Mike Sakellis and Yanni Livaditis—kept a lot of the wood from Steak & Ale. But the place isn’t as dark and dim as the old restaurant.

"We use the word intimate" to describe the ambiance, Clary said.

The menu will stay much the same with Italian and seafood dishes, though there will be additional offerings at both locations, such as more salads and seafood. Basta Pasta is open for lunch and dinner.

People in Harford County love this place. I kept meaning to get there, but didn’t. I can’t wait to try the new one.

January, 14th 2010

A peek inside Milan

milan1.jpgBaltimore’s newest restaurant, Milan, opens tomorrow (Jan. 15). I got an insider’s look this morning along with Jess Blumberg, who writes the magazine’s On the Town blog. (Jess will be posting about the restaurant’s bar scene soon.)

First of all, the massive, multilevel space—1000 Eastern Ave. on the edge of Harbor East and Little Italy—is stunning. The lounge level plays off a white, crimson, and espresso color scheme.

Bright white couches and tables overlook a gray marble fireplace highlighted by a fabric rose wall on top. The rose theme is picked up in cushions on the couches. The bar also goes glam with a red sparkly top and comfy white stools with backs.

As Hilary Keil, the restaurant’s assistant general manager, told us, "We wanted to create a space like no other and have guests step into Milan and step into a different world."

Local designer Meghan Hoffmann gets kudos for creating the glizy vibe. Tomorrow night, the razzle-dazzle scene will ratchet up a notch when the women servers wear glittery masks and the guys don bandit masks to celebrate opening night.

To the rear of the lounge is a sleek sushi bar featuring the restaurant’s sushi-Italiano creations, an interesting twist, with offerings like salmon with lemon caper aioli and yellowfin tuna with red-pepper oil and sea salt.

But you have to check out the upstairs fine-dining area with its giant palladian windows, white-and-silver overtones, and VIP booths with silver beads and gauzy curtains. (There are also VIP rooms with couches and flat screen TVs for rent.)

The Italian-Mediterranean fusion menu takes its cues from executive chef Stephen Carey, a Johnson and Wales culinary grad and Maryland native. Look for entrees like linguine with shrimp and lobster in a brandied garlic cream sauce ($26) and a veal porterhouse with wild mushroom risotto cakes ($30). There are appetizers, antipasti, bruschettas, flatbreads, and salads, too.

Of course, there’s a pastry chef, whipping up confections like ricotta cheesecake, tiramisu, and crème brûlée. The restaurant opens at 5 p.m. (Its website is under construction.)

It’s going to look magical at night with hundreds of votives flickering in the dark. The restaurant expects to go through 250 candles a night, 300 on weekends!

"Here at Milan, we’re all about the experience," Hilary said. Visually, we agree.

Photo: Courtesy of bmoremedia.com

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