March, 25th 2011

How is Duff helping Japan?

more duffAnd what are his fave hometown eats? The omnipresent Duff Goldman of Charm City Cakes revealed his five top Baltimore-area restaurant foods in the April issue of Food Network Magazine. What do you think?

1.   Pulled pork BBQ sa“m”wich at Andy Nelson’s Barbecue in Cockeysville.

2.   Cap’n Crunch French toast at Blue Moon Cafe in Fells Point.

3.   Duck fat french fries at Salt in Canton.

4.   Kaddo borwani (the pumpkin appetizer) at The Helmand in Mt. Vernon.

5.   Shrimp, andouille sausage, and grits at Charleston in Harbor East.

On a more serious note, Duff is selling a custom-made cake on eBay and donating 100 percent of the proceeds to the Red Cross to assist with relief efforts in Japan. Here’s your chance to try a Charm City Cake while helping the distressed country, too. Bidding is already well over $1,000.

More Duff stuff: In the April issue of Baltimore magazine, on newsstands today, find out about Duff and his friendship with Mary Alice Yeskey, who will be filling a new role at Charm City Cakes in Baltimore while Duff heads west to open a bakery branch in Los Angeles.

Photo courtesy of Food Network.

1:17 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 24th 2011

Fingers crossed: Joe Squared coming to Power Plant Live!

joe squared pizzaJoe Edwardsen, owner/chef of Joe Squared in Station North, is working on a deal now to open a restaurant in Power Plant Live!

He’ll still stay in his North Avenue location, but if all the “T”s get crossed and “I”s get dotted, he and his square pizzas will have a second location in the spot now occupied by Two Boots Pizzeria in about two months.

Two Boots—which just opened in July last year—confirmed today that they’re planning to move if all their details work out. The popular New York eatery will stay in Baltimore, relocating to Mt. Royal Avenue in the MICA campus, near University of Baltimore.

I stopped by Joe Squared today to pick up a pizza for lunch, pictured, (it was a very good three-different-topping Flag Pizza) and talked to Joe about his plans. He had to give up on his dream of opening the restaurant Cuadrado across the street from Joe Squared, he said. The building wasn’t up to code.

Now, he’s working hard to bring his pizzas to the Inner Harbor. “It’s not finalized,” he said. “But it will most likely happen.”

That would be nice for us downtown workers. Then, we could get delivery to our offices. No more need to pick up the pies. But, then, I'd miss talking to Joe.

Photo by me

March, 23rd 2011

A New Ballpark Food Line-Up

Os pretzelsWith a lot of hoopla, TV cameras, food stations, and hungry guests, the Orioles staff and new food vendor Delaware North Companies Sportservice introduced its new menu items at Camden Yards today.

But don’t worry. Boog’s BBQ will still be fielding hits with its sandwiches on Eutaw Street with two new additions—a Big Boog sandwich with twice the meat and potato chips seasoned with Boog’s special seasoning blend.

Pollock Johnny’s sausage is also represented at various kiosks, where you can also indulge in a recently created Birdland Dog with an Esskay hotdog topped with smoked pit beef, pepperoni hash, stewed tomato jam, and fried onions.

I had a chance to sample many of the offerings this morning and was impressed that Sportservice and its Camden Yards chefs—executive chef Josh Distenfeld, pictured, and sous chef David Friendlich, a Randallstown native—are focusing on local, seasonal ingredients with a nod to Baltimore tastes.

Here’s what I ate (good thing I didn’t have breakfast):

Two kinds of crab cakes—Both were made with jumbo lump crab and were developed by chef Friendlich. One is a fat, pure patty with no enhancement but is delicious in its own right; the other got a boost from a mild undercurrent of Tabasco and Old Bay. The crowd favorite, including mine, seemed to be the Tabasco cake. There were even miniature Tabasco bottles if you wanted more heat.

Tex-Mex crab rolls—The chef called them crab enchiladas. The official description was “Rolling Crab.” No matter the name. They were really good.

Beer-Battered Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich—I loved this sandwich. It features a Natty Boh-and-Old-Bay-battered, fried soft shell topped with a jalapeño pepper slice and slaw on a soft roll.

Chop House Steak & Egg Sandwich—Sorry, I have to use a Rachel Ray demonstrative, “Yum-O.” Picture it: Slices of marinated Angus steak with balsamic onions, horseradish cream, and Gouda cheese with a fried egg on top.

Baltimore wedge salad—Yes, there are fresh greens at the ballpark. This welcome salad has soft butter lettuce tossed with grape tomatoes, bacon, green onions, garbanzo beans, peas, and blue cheese with a red-wine vinaigrette.

O’s pretzel, pictured—I have a fondness for pretzels and probably eat too many. But I know the pretenders and wannabes. These fresh-made, hand-rolled ropes of dough, shaped like a capital “O” to show team spirit, with a sprinkle of kosher salt make my cut any day.

Other offerings you’ll find at the ballpark:

A Little Italy meatball sub, Old Bay wings, Berger cookies, and that Food Network sandwich I mentioned in an earlier post, which will be introduced in May along with another steak sandwich called the Red, White, and Blue, lathered with Peppadew mayo.

The Sportservice folks are also in touch with a company called Organics to Go to bring organic and some gluten-free fare to the ballpark.

And while Sportservice hopes the fans will enjoy the new food items, its president, Rick Abramson, will be paying attention to what sells or doesn’t. “We’ll continue to enhance this menu,” he said. “On an ongoing basis, we will look at other foods we can bring to the ballpark.”

Here’s to the Orioles having a winning season. But, whatever happens, we won’t have to worry about striking out with the food.

Photo by me

2:44 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 23rd 2011

A Food Network sandwich at the ballpark

food network sandwichI’m going to Camden Yards this morning to eat food—actually to sample the latest menu items from the new vendor. More on that later today. But, coincidentally, I discovered that there will be a Food Network sandwich cart at the ballpark this year.

In the most recent issue of Food Network Magazine, I saw an item on the sandwiches, which will be offered at nine Major League locations, including Camden Yards. Evidently, our sandwich will be “All-natural steak with Old Bay horseradish sauce on a rustic roll.” Sounds interesting.

I’m sorry that the steak sandwich photo is so small. That’s all I could find on the Food Network’s website.

Check in later for more about baseball food.

9:58 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 22nd 2011

Fast, farm-fresh lunches at Sotto Sopra

sotto sopraSotto Sopra Restaurant will get you in and out within an hour for lunch while you enjoy an Italian-inspired, two-course lunch with coffee or iced tea for $20. Now, that’s a tempting deal.

Lunch includes a soup or a salad as a first course and varied seasonal options for the main course. For $6 extra, you can get a dessert or a glass of wine. I guess it depends on what kind of day you’re having at work.

You can dine in the pretty dining room, pictured, or al fresco, weather permitting. Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Sat.

Photo courtesy of Sotto Sopra

 

March, 21st 2011

Weekend Cooking

beef stewSometimes, I need to cook. That’s how I felt yesterday as I minced shallots, cut rosy raw beef into neat cubes, plucked fragrant rosemary from my sturdy winter plant, and blanched thin stalks of asparagus.

I wanted to fix a meal that would capture the waning days of cold weather but also welcome the first day of spring. An aromatic beef stew would work, I thought, with chilled asparagus topped with a mustardy vinaigrette and gossamer shreds of egg.

There was a catch. I also wanted to go to yoga in the afternoon. No problem. I dragged out my trusty slow cooker to get the main meal started in the morning and prepped the vegetable for later.

It all came together easily, and the house still smells wonderful. Here are the recipes I used. Do you have favorite weekend recipes? I’d love to post them, too. Please e-mail your recipes to me.

Provençal Beef Stew (Slow Cooker)

¾ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 ½ pounds beef stew meat, cut into 1 ½ inch cubes

2-3 tablespoons olive oil

2 sprigs thyme

2 sprigs rosemary

2 yellow onions, sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup dry white wine

1 (14 ½ ounce) can crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Freshly ground pepper

1 ½ cups green olives, pitted

Combine the flour and salt in a resealable plastic bag. Add the meat to the bag, several pieces at a time, and shake to coat completely.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. In batches if necessary, add the meat and cook, turning, for 7 to 10 minutes, until browned on all sides. Using tongs, transfer the meat to the slow cooker and add the thyme and rosemary.

Place the onions in the plastic bag and shake in the remaining flour to coat completely. Set the sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the onions. Saute, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the garlic and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until softened. Add the wine to the pan and stir to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the tomatoes and whisk in the mustard and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes, or until the sauce thickens somewhat. Pour the sauce over the meat in the slow cooker.

Cover and cook on low for 5 to 8 hours, until the meat is very tender. Stir in the olives 20 minutes before the end of cooking. Remove and discard the thyme and rosemary.

Ladle into soup bowls and serve immediately.

Recipe from The Gourmet Slow Cooker by Lynn Alley

Asparagus with Red-Wine Vinaigrette

1 ½ pounds medium asparagus

1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

2 teaspoons minced shallot

¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large egg, hard-boiled

Steam asparagus on a steamer rack set over boiling water, covered, until just tender, 3-5 minutes (depending on thickness), then transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.

Whisk together the vinegar, shallot, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and add oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified.

Halve egg and force each half through a coarse sieve into a bowl. (A potato ricer works really well, too.) Toss asparagus with 1 tablespoon vinaigrette and divide among four plates. Spoon remaining dressing over asparagus and top with the egg. Serves 4.

Recipe adapted from Gourmet

Phto by me

5:33 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
March, 21st 2011

Duff is a James Beard finalist; not Charleston

duff goldmanJust announced on Twitter: Duff Goldman was nominated in the Broadcast Media category for TV Food Personality/Host. His competition in the James Beard Foundation award: Alton Brown (who was just here on Saturday) and Bobby Flay (who’s been in Baltimore for a couple of Throwdowns).

Those results will be announced on May 6.

Duff, pictured, whose Food Network show Ace of Cakes just ended its run, still oversees Charm City Cakes in Baltimore and is planning a Los Angeles outpost of the bakery.

But the James Beard judges didn’t give anything to restaurant Charleston, which received three earlier semifinalist nods. No Cindy Wolf for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic, no Outstanding Service for Charleston, and no Outstanding Wine Service for Charleston and Tony Foreman.

Maybe next year.

For complete results, visit the James Beard website.

Photo courtesy of Charm City Cakes

3:43 pm Comment Count Tags: award, restaurants, TV
March, 18th 2011

This weekend: Baltimore Greek Week and other events

Greek saladThe lineup includes Baltimore’s first Greek Week, a “Crabology” class, the Hippodrome’s Foodie Experience, and a sushi-eating contest. Good thing we don’t have to put on our bathing suits yet. Here goes.

Baltimore Greek Week starts on Sunday and runs through March 27. Many area restaurants will be offering food specials and discounts, starting with a kickoff event at Ikaros Restaurant at 1:30 p.m. on Sunday. Ikaros will be offering a multi-course, prix-fixe meal for $20.11

Other highlights include Zorba’s Restaurant preparing a Greek buffet for $16 a person from 5 p.m.-close from March 21-24 and the new Olive Room at the Inn at the Black Olive hosting a Greek wine tasting at 6 p.m. March 23.

You’ll find more deals at 7 West Bistro in Towson, Mezze in Fells Point, Double T-Diners around town, Sunshine Grill in Fork, and other places. For a complete list, visit the Greek Week website.

More to do:

“Crabology” class: 11:30 a.m. Saturday at Phillips Seafood Restaurant. Learn everything you’ve always wanted to know about Maryland’s favorite crustacean. The session features a tasting of various grades of crabmeat with a glass of wine and a demo on how to make various hors d’oeuvres. The cost is $50 and includes lunch and a swag bag. Call the restaurant to register.

Foodie Experience: 8 p.m. Saturday at the Hippodrome Theatre. The Food Network’s Alton Brown of Good Eats and Iron Chef America is the guest speaker. An after-party will feature some of Baltimore’s top restaurants from 9:30 p.m.-midnight. For more info, read my interview with Alton Brown. Also, check out Dara Bunjon’s story about the affable food scientist on her Dining Dish blog. To purchase tickets ($94 or $250 VIP), visit ticketmaster.com or the Hippodrome website.  

Sushi-eating contest: Noon-5 p.m. Sunday at RA Sushi; deadline to register is Saturday at the restaurant. The third annual Maki Madness features cash prizes and bragging rights. Even if you don’t chow down on the sushi, you can cheer on your favorite eater. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of each Tootsy Maki will be donated to Big Brothers Big Sisters of Central Maryland.

 

4:34 pm Comment Count Tags: events
March, 17th 2011

What’s going on with Caesar’s Den?

caesar's denI got an e-mail this morning with the subject line: Little Italy's Caesar's Den for Lease. I tried to call the restaurant’s owner Guido De Franco but was told he was off today and I should call back tomorrow, which I will.

In the meantime, the e-mail included a listing for the property by the Segall Group. It calls the restaurant at 223 S. High St. “well-established.”

I’d say. It’s been in business for four decades and has a strong following of customers. In a recent review in February, The Sun’s Richard Gorelick gave the restaurant 2 ½ stars for food. Nice.

Anyone heard anything? 

12:13 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
March, 17th 2011

Top 10 breakfast trends for 2011

breakfastWhat’s No. 1? Grandma would know. Here’s what The Food Channel found in its research. What do you think?

1.    Oatmeal—Not instant but the classic thick and lumpy kind that involves steel-cut oats.
2.    Chocolate for breakfast—Look for chocolate tea, chocolate Belgian waffles, chocolate granola, even hot chocolate on a stick.
3.    Fast-food battle over breakfast—McDonald’s and Burger King are major players but expect others to join the morning rush hour, like Subway, Wendy’s, and maybe Donimo’s Pizza.
4.    Haute coffee at home—More people are buying whole beans, grinders, a French press, and other equipment to make their own brews.
5.    Ethnic invasion—Hispanic breakfast items like tacos, quesadillas, and burritos are showing up everywhere. But there are also European-style breakfast choices like bangers and mash, cheeses, baked beans, and cold cuts turning up, too. Pretty soon, we’ll all be slathering our toast with Nutella (if we aren’t already).
6.    Breakfast beverages—Bubbly juices are growing; new fruit juices are in the market, promoting their antioxidant content; and seasonal juices are riding the “eating local” trend. Strawberry juice, anyone?
7.    Hot pizza in the A.M.—Food makers are looking at hot options. And there’s even a 24-hour Domino’s Pizza in Dayton, Ohio, delivering hot pizza in the morning!
8.    Breakfast ingredients all day long—Bacon, of course, is ubiquitous, from burgers to desserts, but eggs and hash brown potatoes are showing up on lunch and dinner menus.
9.    Breakfast two-step—People are eating breakfast in two phases, sort of grazing through the morning. They may start with coffee and a banana or muffin. Then, later, munch on a power bar, yogurt, or granola before lunch.         
10. Eggs—Remember last summer’s massive egg recall? It’s history, and eggs are back big time both at home and on restaurant menus, any way you like them.

Photo by winnond/FreeDigitalPhotos.net

11:26 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 16th 2011

New menu at B&O American Brasserie

B&O American BrasserieExecutive chef Thomas Dunklin, who took over B&O American Brasserie’s kitchen in December, introduced his new menu today. A noteworthy addition is a range of small plates that includes Decadent Deviled Eggs, a soft-boiled egg with truffled Maryland crab, mustard, and caviar ($9).

Are soft-boiled eggs the next big thing? I just had the six-minute egg at Demi last night. Delicious.

But back to chef Dunklin’s menu. He’s also focusing on seasonal, local foods; house-made charcuterie and desserts (Red Velvet Doughnuts with cream-cheese frosting anyone?); and has expanded the bar menu.

There are also fresh additions to the lunch and brunch menu, which features small plates like Blueberry Goat Cheese Pancakes with ginger syrup and cashew streusel ($5).

Photo of the lounge and downstairs dining area

March, 16th 2011

Oh, no, not wings!

chicken wingsA side effect of the NFL standoff between players and owners if they don’t reach an agreement is the impact on food intake when there are no football games to watch—chicken wings, specifically.

No games could lead to no fans munching on dozens of yummy, messy wings at sports bars and other venues. I’m sure more snacks would be affected, too.

But at the Reuters Global Food and Agriculture Summit being held this week, the talk was about chicken wings. The loss of revenue from the sale of wings would impact the chicken industry, according to one chicken-wing supplier.

Read the whole report on eater.com.

Okay, NFL people lets settle this dispute. We’re talking wings here.

Photo by Gourmet studios courtesy of epicurious.com

 

11:24 am Comment Count Tags: news
March, 14th 2011

The Prime Rib is honored

prime ribBuzz Beler, founder and owner of The Prime Rib, is the recipient of one of the food-service industry’s most coveted awards—the Silver Plate Award. He will receive the award in Chicago on May 23.

The honor, presented by the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, recognizes excellence in food-service operations and the industry. Beler earned the award in the Independent Restaurants category.

He and his brother Nick founded The Prime Rib in Baltimore in 1965, designing the restaurant to look like an elegant Manhattan supper club from the 1940s. They opened another restaurant in D.C. in 1976 and one in Philadelphia in 1997.

If you’re looking for an excuse to visit The Prime Rib, there’s a “Celebrate Our 45th for $45” promotion going on. It includes a salad or soup, entree (including the eponymous beef), and dessert.

March, 11th 2011

This weekend: Irish food and fun

st. patrick's dayAn Poitin Stil, whose seven-day St. Patrick’s Day festivities started today, invites families to enjoy Irish food and fun at the Timonium pub on Sunday.

Clowns, balloon artists, and face painters will be on hand for the kids from 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Adults can sip Jameson Irish coffees for $5.50 while watching the activities. And bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes) will be available for $10 from 5 p.m.-close that night.

You can also get your Irish on at Baltimore’s annual St. Patrick’s Day parade. It steps off at 2 p.m. on Sunday at the Washington Monument and continues to Pratt Street and Market Place.

For more children’s events, check out Evan Serpick’s Learning to Crawl post.

Have fun and don’t forget about daylight savings time, which starts at 2 a.m. Sunday. It’s time to spring forward an hour!

Photo by FreeDigitalPhotos.net

March, 11th 2011

Michael Voltaggio defends himself and brother Bryan

voltaggio brothersMaryland native Michael Volaggio turned to the Los Angeles Times when a New York Times reporter made this comment in an article about chef Sam Talbot:

“[Mr. Talbot] is among a new breed of celebrity chefs who have coasted into culinary fame, less by grueling dues-paying, and more on their telegenic brand. The group includes the brothers Brian (sic) and Michael Voltaggio, Ludo Lefebvre, Spike Mendelsohn, Sam Mason, Fabio Vivani and Marcel Vigneron.”

Those were fighting words to Michael, who won season six of Bravo's Top Chef. (Brother Bryan, chef/co-owner of award-winning VOLT in Frederick, came in second.) Here’s Michael’s response to the LAT:

“My brother [Bryan] delivered pizza to get through culinary school. Both of us started at 16, that's 16-plus years of experience each. I lived in New York and made $350 a week and could only eat at work because I couldn't afford food. Nothing was ever handed to me. I have and still do work my ass off. . . . It’s only now that chefs can make a decent wage and it comes from branding and the extra things we do outside of work (which gives us more work). . . . I’m truly insulted by this, I have mentally and physically given myself to my craft.”

Michael’s culinary resume includes the Dining Room at the Langham Huntington in California, Jose Andres’ Bazaar, work with chef Charlie Palmer, and stages (worked for free) at restaurants during vacations, “peeling vegetables and cutting lobsters ’til my hands bled.”

Currently, he is getting ready to open the restaurant Ink. in L.A.

As the mother of a chef who has worked long, challenging hours, I can relate to Michael’s comments. I think most chefs would agree.

Photo: from left, Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, courtesy of voltaggiobrothers.com

1:48 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs