October, 10th 2008

Taste of Waverly Village

Don't miss the outdoor festival tomorrow (Oct. 11) from 4-9 p.m.  at the site of the 32nd Street Farmers Maket. Tasting tickets are $1 and can be used to sample foods from some of the local restaurants along Greenmount Avenue and its side streets. It'll be a great time to savor the fare of Darker Than Blue Cafe, India Tandoor, the Thir-Tea First Street Cafe and Tearoom, and more.

It's all for a good cause, too. Proceeds will benefit the Waverly Main Street program, which supports economic revitalization and historic preservation along Greenmount between 35th and 28th Streets. Eating and helping others always works for me.

3:13 pm Comment Count Tags: events
September, 25th 2008

The chef is back

You may remember Christian DeLutis as one of B-mag’s top singles. We knew him as the creative executive chef at The Wine Market in Locust Point. Christian left in early May to head to Ireland for a cooking gig. But securing a work visa proved difficult, and now he’s back in Baltimore, looking for a place to open his own restaurant.

He’s targeting Fells Point, Mount Vernon, or Piers 5 or 6. Christian says he’s taking his time to find just the right place and doesn’t expect to be in business until next spring or fall. The chef already has a concept: reinventing American classics and serving all-American wines and bourbon.

In the meantime, you can find Christian at Brasserie Tatin, where he’s doing consulting work with the kitchen and helping put together a new menu to be unveiled toward the end of October.

But back to The Wine Market, executive chef Jason Lear smoothly picked up DeLutis’s reins and has galloped forward with his own menu interpretations. I was there last night and had a wonderful fall starter among other dishes: a 12-hour braised oxtail ragout with buckwheat potato gnocchi. Simply delicious.

10:38 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
September, 24th 2008

Food Network chef at Wegmans

George Duran, host of Food Network’s Ham on the Street and author of Take This Dish and Twist It—Comfort foods with new and unexpected flavors, will demonstrate recipes and share tips at Wegmans Hunt Valley at 6 p.m. Sept. 29. He’ll also sign copies of his cookbook ($15.96 plus a 20 percent discount at Wegmans). The event is free, but space is limited. Vouchers to reserve a spot can be picked up at the grocery store’s service desk.

11:00 am Comment Count Tags: events
September, 18th 2008

Burger with a Heart

A new burger joint is coming to Baltimore—Elevation Burger (655 Aliceanna St., Harbor East, near the Marriott Courtyard, elevationburger.com). But this won’t be your typical fast-food hamburger. Elevation Burger is all about healthy ingredients. It cooks its french fries, made fresh, in olive oil, offers two kinds of veggie burgers, and uses only 100 percent organic, grass-fed, free-range meat. Burgers will cost from $3.39-5.99.

Alex Smith, grandson of baking magnate John Paterakis Sr., is responsible for bringing the concept here. "There’s not many places where you can get in and out quick," says Alex, who lives in the area. "It will be a nice addition to the neighborhood."

Elevation Burger, a rapidly expanding Virginia-based chain since it opened in 2005, has plans for 24 restaurants in the Mid-Atlantic region. Smith, who owns and operates a Häagen-Dazs store in Harbor East, is also looking to expand the burger restaurant to Towson, Pikesville, or Owings Mills. He plans to open the Harbor East Elevation Burger by the end of November.

September, 17th 2008

Sweet Treat in Hampden

Does Baltimore need another bakery? You bet, especially when the proprietor/baker is Anisha Jagtap, 23, a former executive pastry chef at Sasha’s who trained with Ned Atwater. Anisha showcases her tempting fare from 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday in a tiny rowhouse on The Avenue (830 W. 36th St., 410-878-1266, puffsandpastries.com).

She opened last Saturday to attract the crowds at Hampdenfest. It’s a cute space with wood floors, soft green walls, and minimalist trappings. The star is the pastry case filled with sweet and savory goodies. "I thought Baltimore needed something local and seasonal as far as pastries go," Anisha says. She chose Hampden because it’s an up-and-coming place.

There are lots of individual nibbles or you can order whole portions, even wedding cakes, if you’d like. So far, we can personally praise the Granny-Smith apple tart ($4), chocolate-mousse cream puff drizzled with chocolate ganache ($3.25), mushroom duxelles tart topped with parsley goat cheese ($5), and wedge of candied apple-wood bacon cheese quiche ($5). There’s more, too, including cookies, brownies, scones, and breads. I can see me making regular visits.

2:44 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
September, 10th 2008

New wine shop/café in Fells Point

The dream of Kristina and Mark Bachman is now open. V-NO (905 S. Ann St., next to Bonaparte Breads, 410-342-8466) offers bottles from $10-30, which are stacked into sections like bubbly, crisp, big, and juicy, as well as by the glass ($6-10) at the intimate bar and tables. "We want to make it as easy as possible," says Kristina, a former nurse recruiter and mother of a 2 1/2 year old. There is also a beer selection and a "cellar" with pricier options. You can also take out your package goods.
She and Mark have dedicated the shop to women by focusing on wine, a cheese sampler with French bread and kalamata olives ($12), and sweets, like the chocolate-truffle platter ($6). The sleek, cozy interior is reminiscent of a European café. There is also outdoor seating with umbrellas. "We love food and we love wine," says Kristina, explaining why she and her husband opened the wine bar. "And it’s on the water." Always a plus in our book.

Hours are 11:30 a.m. to closing, which will vary from 9 p.m. to midnight depending on visitors, Tuesday through Saturday.

2:40 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
September, 3rd 2008

We found Chef Joshau Hill

I just got a call from Chef Josh, who’s been trying to set up his own restaurant since leaving Night of the Cookers. Unfortunately, he wasn’t able to make that happen, but, not to worry, he’s now serving up his Southern-inspired food again—this time at Robert Oliver Seafood Restaurant, 1225 Cathedral St., 410-528-5950, starting today. I don’t know if the restaurant will change its name (I have a call into the owner), but Josh is planning such dishes as pan-roasted duck and lamb chops with fall vegetables. And his mac and cheese will be back with pancetta and green garlic. Josh, who left Cookers after only several months, has more permanency in mind. "I’m going to make a go of this," he promises.

August, 28th 2008

Let's cook today

Even if you missed the most important national holiday of the summer, Sneak Some Zucchini onto Your Neighbor’s Porch Night on Aug. 8, I’m guessing that, if you’re like me, you are still being bombarded—in a good way—with all kinds of squash. My pile of squash and cooking magazines collided at the same time. As I was weeding through the magazine stack, I found this recipe in July’s Cooking Light. I immediately went into the kitchen and made it. I’ll be making it again soon. I hope you like it, too.

Parmesan Zucchini Sticks

3 large zucchini (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 cup dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
1/4 cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup egg substitute, see note
Cooking spray

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut zucchini in half crosswise; cut each half lengthwise into eight wedges. Repeat procedure with remaining zucchini. Combine bread crumbs, panko, cheese, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish. Dip zucchini in egg substitute; dredge in bread-crumb mixture. Place zucchini on a wire rack coated with cooking spray. Lightly coat zcchini with cooking spray. Bake at 400 degrees for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Serve immediately.
Note: I didn’t have egg substitute, so I used a whole egg, beaten slightly.

12:51 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
August, 25th 2008

Baltimore on the Food Network

Tune in Tuesday, Aug. 26, at 9:30 p.m. to Down Home With the Neelys on the Food Network and find out what the couple discovered in Baltimore. According to a press release, Pat and Gina Neely learn about savory pies at Dangerously Delicious Pies, get ginger recipes from Gracie’s Gotcha Ginger (local business specializing in, well, ginger), and sample a crab cake at Faidley’s Seafood. They also take a detour to Newark, DE, and visit Sweet and Sassy Cupcakes. Having visited the bakery many times when I was living in Wilmington, DE, I have to agree with them. Sweet and Sassy is worth the drive up 95. Let me know what you think of the program.

2:54 pm Comment Count Tags: tidbits
August, 7th 2008

Joe Squared closed for week

Fans of Joe Edwardsen’s pizzas will have to go through pie withdrawal, starting Sunday, Aug. 10, while the restaurant undergoes renovations and—this is the big news—installs a coal-fired pizza oven.

Joe says the oven will produce a more authentic pizza flavor and cook faster. A spruced-up Joe Squared (133 W. North Ave., 410-545-0444) is expected to reopen Tuesday, Aug. 19, although the new oven won’t be in service until the end of August because of flue work that needs to be done. But, Joe says, diners can take a look at the oven, which he says is the only one in Maryland.

You may remember the short-lived Phat Pug pizzeria in Perry Hall, which had a coal-fire oven. Phat Pug paved the way, Joe says.

10:18 am Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
August, 4th 2008

Taste restaurant is now Crush

Baltimore’s newest restaurant, Crush, is scheduled to open Wednesday (Aug. 6) in the space formerly occupied by Taste, 510 E. Belvedere Ave., reports Chris Stutz, a regular contributor to B-mag. Here’s what she found out after talking to chef/owner Daniel Chaustit.

The name refers to the "winemaking season," according to Dan. It will feature "modern American food in a casual atmosphere with farm fresh produce and sustainable seafood." Price points will be somewhat lower than that of Taste, and the restaurant will continue to offer outdoor seating.

Crush will be open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Private parties can be arranged. Dan did not change the décor since he says he was pretty wowed by it when he first saw it.

Dan, who lives in Perry Hall, is a former chef and owner of Christopher Daniel and also a former executive chef at Linwoods. The phone number is 443-278-9001. Crush doesn’t have a website yet.

August, 1st 2008

B-more dining scene: 'Interesting and diverse'

Those were the words of Tim Zagat of the Zagat restaurant surveys on NPR this morning. He then went on to cite the variety of restaurants in the city, mentioning The Helmand, Charleston, and Samos. And while we may not always get national recognition, Tim said we rank among the best in the country. We’re just smaller than L.A. or New York, he explained.

Those inspiring culinary thoughts come on the heels of Bon Appétit’s new restaurant issue, which includes Cinghiale in a story on the new breed of Italian restaurants in America. The magazine collected recipes from "our 12 favorite places across the country," including two from Cinghiale chef Julian Marucci. His wild mushroom crostini and fresh artichoke and white bean crostini sound amazing.

July, 29th 2008

Dangerously Delicious Pies grand opening

Rodney "The Pie Man" Henry is just about ready for the main event. The new Dangerously Delicious Pies Savory House (3547 Chestnut Ave., Hampden, 410-662-7437) opened quietly less than two weeks ago with a focus on savory pies like steak chili pie and crab-and-cheddar quiche. The lacquered tables are in place, pies of the day (sweet and savory) are noted on the blackboard, and neighbors are poking their heads in to take a look at the sleek, narrow space with scarlet walls that was once occupied by Finnerteas until a storm took off the roof last summer.

But all has been repaired and buffed, and Henry is planning a grand opening Aug.1-3 with live music at 8 p.m. Saturday. The congenial guitarist turned baker marvels at the turn of events: "Rock ’n’ roll doesn’t pay the bills, so I started baking pies. I love it."

July, 28th 2008

Restaurant week discoveries

Baltimore’s summer restaurant week is in full swing through Aug. 3 with more than 90 restaurants participating. In addition to three-course dinner for $30.08 and three-course lunches for $20.08, many places offer special events like wine pairings, cooking classes, and tasting menus. Some of the more popular restaurants fill up fast. But I’d like to suggest giving some of the lesser-known spots a try, like Todd Conner’s, 700 S. Broadway in Fells Point.

A friend and I ended up there on Saturday night. Even though I didn’t order from the restaurant week menu (too much heavy-duty eating during the week), the courses looked great and the price also includes a half-price bottle of wine. It’s worth stopping by just to meet Kate, bartender/server extraordinaire. The small dining area is sleekly modern with butter-yellow walls, rich wood floors, and pretty artwork. We had the place to ourselves.

Addictively warm, salty potato chips arrive soon after you're seated and take the edge off your hunger while you figure out what to order. I had a crab and avocado salad with lots of nice lump crab. My friend got the Fell’s ultimate, a generous, flavorful crab-cake sandwich. But the side dish that got us groaning with pleasure was the bowl of mushrooms, buttery, earthy morsels sautéed to an elegant mahogany shade. An elusive flavor lingered after each bite. Kate said it was a magic spice. We agree.

What are your restaurant-week discoveries?

July, 24th 2008

Tuscany of Towson

Every time I gripped the wheel and circled the Towson roundabout in recent weeks, I noticed a new dining spot, Sweet Léla’s, in the space where the Towson Delly had once been located. The outdoor tables in front of the restaurant were always packed, and there were tablecloths and comfortable-looking chairs. Even from afar, there seemed to be a sophisticated, European air to it. I wasn’t wrong. I dropped by yesterday after round one of the thunderstorms and met owner Antonio Iacampo and his operations manager Vincenzo Diferrante.

These guys are dedicated to bringing true Italian fare to the county seat. Not American Italian, Vincenzo stressed. They have bread deliveries from New York, handpick vegetables from Harold’s produce market, get fresh seafood from Conrad’s, and have an "Italian lady" prepare authentic cuisine. It’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but the biggest surprise is the dinner menu with offerings like antipasto Tirolese with Cerignola olives, fresh mozzarella, and toasted garlic bread topped with speck (Italian bacon), or scallops wrapped in pancetta served with hot stuffed peppers. Desserts come from bakeries like Patisserie Poupon, Vincenzo said. There are also house-made cannolis or many flavors of fruit-laden gelato.

You get the picture. This is no run-of-the-mill deli, although it is tiny inside with just a few tables. In the colder weather, Antonio plans to enclose the canopy area. There are also two angled TVs that will soon show Italian movies, he said.

Sweet Léla’s, named after Antonio’s soon-to-be two-year-old daughter, is at 3 W. Allegheny Ave. in Towson. Phone is 410-821-5352. Benvenuta!