August, 13th 2012

"Celebrated" chef opens restaurant here

robbin haasRobbin Haas, one of Food & Wine's 10 Best New Chefs in 1994, is planning to open a craft beer/artisan pizza restaurant in the Hampden-Woodberry area by the end of September.

So why is the chef, pictured, who became renowned in Miami for his New World Cuisine and now runs a French bistro in Antigua, Guatemala, coming to Baltimore?

"The food scene here is phenomenal," he said on the phone this afternoon. "It's growing. It's fun. It's exciting."

There's another reason, too. He and his wife, who has MS, wanted to be near excellent medical facilities like Hopkins, he said.

They're setting up residence here, along with three dogs and three cats, though Robbin will continue to oversee his Antigua restaurant, Bistrot Cinq, too.

The Baltimore restaurant will be called Birroteca (a beer version of an Italian enoteca) and will feature a number of craft brews, wine, small plates, charcuterie, artisan cheeses, and desserts in addition to organic artisan pizzas. "It's the way people like to eat," Robbin said.

It's located in the space formerly occupied by Mill Steakhouse Tavern, 1520 Clipper Rd., not far from Woodberry Kitchen. "It had all the bones," Robbin said. He's redecorating and was checking out the reclaimed goods at Second Chance when I talked to him.

During his career, the chef, who grew up in Buffalo and is described as "celebrated" in restaurant stories, has also consulted on several restaurants around the country, including the Raku "Asian diners" in D.C. and Bethesda.

He hopes Baltimoreans will give him a chance as the "new kid on the block."

How can we not when he says things like, "We had an opportunity to go anywhere. We picked Baltimore. It is really a cool town."

Photo courtesy of Long Island Restaurant News 

August, 9th 2012

Anthony Bourdain back in Baltimore

anthony bourdainLovable bad boy Anthony Bourdain brings his "Guts and Glory" tour to Baltimore on Saturday, Nov. 17. He'll spend the evening at the Hippodrome Theatre regaling the audience with stories about his work and travels.

The Emmy-award-winning Bourdain, known for his shows No Reservations and The Layover on the Travel Channel, will have a lot to say if his previous appearance at the Hippodrome is any indication. He was on stage in May 2010 with his friend Eric Ripert, chef/co-owner of Le Bernardin in NYC.

Tickets for "Guts and Glory" officially go on sale Aug. 17, though Bourdain's website says there will be a presale starting Aug. 15. Prices range from $82.75-$180.75.

Last year, Bourdain joined HBO's Treme and contributes to the drama's restaurant storylines. It makes sense since he is friends with our own David Simon, creator of the show.

The busy Bourdain also will be hosting two new shows in 2013: The Taste, a cooking competition series for ABC with Nigella Lawson, and a travel docu-series for CNN.

The November event will also include a question-and-answer session and a post-show meet and greet for VIP ticket holders.

Get ready Baltimore. 

5:18 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
August, 8th 2012

Baltimore County Restaurant Week

basta pastaA festive kickoff was held this morning to promote the county's summer restaurant week. The promotion starts Friday and runs through Aug. 19.

Today's event at Café Troia in Towson featured sample dishes like pulled-pork sliders (Barrett's Grill in Hunt Valley), chocolate-covered strawberries (The Milton Inn), penne and tomatoes, pictured, (Basta Pasta in Timonium), short-rib sliders (Towson Tavern), shrimp salad (Island View Waterfront Cafe in Essex), and Black Rock Orchard grilled peach salad (Café Troia).

The gathering included elected officials, county employees, Chamber of Commerce members, and other dignitaries. I did spot Marty Katz, local Zagat editor, in the crowd.

Executive chef Brian Boston, pictured below, of The Milton Inn was also in attendance. He was an early organizer of Restaurant Week, now in its third year.

Brian BostonI couldn't resist asking him about his new restaurant venture, Highland Inn, in Howard County. He said it's coming along "slowly," but he expects to open in late September. For now, he's gearing up for restaurant week.

This summer, 38 restaurants are participating, offering lunch and dinner specials ranging from $10.12 to $35.12. (There's also a winter restaurant week.) Check out the Baltimore County Restaurant Week website for information and menus.

Photos by me 

August, 8th 2012

Who Won the Crab Bash?

boudinNo one went home hungry at last night's third annual Crab Bash, hosted by B&O American Brasserie and Hotel Monaco in downtown Baltimore. The 10 food stations, laden with various crab dishes, were spread out through the restaurant and hotel for attendees and the panel of judges to sample the fare.

Everyone had an opportunity to vote for a winner. The "People's Choice" award went to chef Chad Gauss, pictured below, right, of The Food Market for his excellent fried-green tomatoes and crab gravy dish. (Check out a review of the Hampden restaurant in our October issue.)

The "Best in Show" was awarded to executive chef Thomas Dunklin of B&O American Brasserie for his creative crab boudin, pictured, with smoked corn and bacon grits and spicy watermelon sauce.

The decision wasn't easy for the judges—Reagan Warfield of Mix 106.5, Tim Williams of WJZ-TV, Tracey Middlekauff of Urbanite, and myself. The entries from local and visiting chefs, including one from Chicago, were all delicious for the most part.

chad gaussBut we could only pick one winner and we gave points to B&O's chef for his inventiveness and the beautiful plating of the dish.

Congratulations to all the chefs who participated, and thank you for sharing your wonderful crab interpretations with us.

Photos by me 

August, 6th 2012

Restaurant Week continues

prime ribThere's still time to get in on the deals. More than two dozen restaurants are continuing to offer special prices despite the official end yesterday of the summertime version of Baltimore Restaurant Week.

The Wine Market in Locust Point is extending its promotion until Aug. 12 and is making its entire menu available, excluding the rib-eye and scallop dishes.

The Prime Rib is luring customers with a whole month of deals until Sept. 2. The restaurant also offers a half-price wine list on Sundays.

For a complete list, visit Baltimore Restaurant Week's website. Participating restaurants are noted with an "e" symbol, though diners are advised to contact restaurants for the extension dates and any changes to their menus.

The recent promotion offered three-course, prix-fixe dinner menus for $30.12 and $20.12, with some restaurants offering two-course lunch menus for $15.12.

Photo courtesy of The Prime Rib's website 

July, 31st 2012

Sake 101

PABULearn all about this Asian alcoholic beverage at classes led by the sake sommeliers at PABU, the Japanese restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore.

Guests will sip, savor, and find out all sorts of stuff, including its benefits. It has a low calorie count, for one.

The classes will be offered the second Saturday of the month from 4:30-5:30 p.m. through October. The next one is scheduled for Aug. 11.

The cost is $25 a class.

As a follow up, the restaurant will also offer a four-course sake dinner the Tuesday following each class. The cost is $75 a person. If you do a class and dinner, it's $90. The pricing doesn't include tax and gratuities.

Reserve a spot by sending an e-mail to Faith Serrano at Four Seasons.

Photo of PABU's dining room courtesy of its website 

July, 31st 2012

Let's eat crab

crab bashThe annual Crab Bash cook-off takes place next Tuesday, Aug. 7, at B&O American Brasserie. And if you haven't been in previous years, you've been missing out on some delicious crabby dishes prepared by local and visiting chefs.

You also get to pick your favorite one. Attendees will be able to sample all the selections and then vote on the dish they like the best. The winning chef receives a "People's Choice" award.

You can tell by the participating chefs that the decision will be a tough one. So far, these chefs have signed up:

B&O American Brasserie's Thomas Dunklin
Alewife's Chad Wells
The Wine Market's Wilbur Cox
Rusty Scupper's Mark Miranda
Chef's Expressions's Jerry Edwards
Square 1682's Guillermo Tellez (Philadelphia)
The Food Market's Chad Gauss
Corner BYOB's Bernard Dehaene
Zentan's Jerry Zheng (Washington, DC)
Atwood Cafe's Derek Simcik (Chicago)

I can't wait. For the third year, I'll be on a judging panel to decide "Best in Show" for the competition. Joining me will be Reagan Warfield of Mix 106.5, Tim Williams of WJZ, and Tracey Middlekauff of Urbanite. What a fun group to pig out with.

Besides the generous amount of food, guests will also enjoy cocktails created exclusively for the event by members of the Baltimore Bartenders' Guild. There will be music, too.

Tickets are $50 a person, with a large portion of the proceeds benefiting the National Aquarium. Purchase them online.

Hope to see you there. 

July, 16th 2012

Artifact Coffee now open

artifact coffeeArtifact Coffee, the latest offspring of Spike and Amy Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen, opened today in the redeveloped Union Mill in the Hampden area. Hours are 7 a.m.-5 p.m. today and tomorrow with full service starting on Wednesday.

Allie Caran, the lead barista at Woodberry Kitchen, is the general manager. You may know her from her fun coffee cuppings at the restaurant. Soon, she'll offer the cuppings at Artifact and invite guest roasters to showcase their beans in coffee drinks.

Allie and her staff of eight baristas, working with Counter Culture Coffee, will serve seasonal, direct-trade coffee, manually brewed to order.

Artifact's changing menu, with all items under $15, includes house-made pastries; soups, salads, and sandwiches for lunch; and suppers, including homemade pastas, braised meats, and stews.

There's also free Wi-Fi. For more information, visit Artifact's website. 

July, 12th 2012

The farm behind Bagby restaurants

david smithFleet Street Kitchen, the latest venture by the Bagby Restaurant Group, is scheduled to open in late August, it was announced last night. As a preview, Bagby owners David and Jane Smith hosted a tour and dinner at their Cunningham Manor in Cockeysville.

(Baltimore magazine sent summer intern Lowen Howard to the event. Here are his impressions.)

At 5, guests were greeted at a large, stone-cobbled driveway, whisked through a Dutch-style, castle-like home, and led to a backyard verandah overlooking English gardens. Waiters weaved and glided through the small, mingling crowd, serving drinks and offering bite-size portions of cod cake with parsley, foie-gras torchon, and sweet-corn soup. Soon, the group was piled into a fleet of Gator utility vehicles and given a tour of the Smiths' grounds and farm.

David Smith, pictured, spoke briefly about the history and philosophy behind Cunningham Farms. "What we will show you is an operating farm—in its first stages of evolution—providing great food for local restaurants," he said. The 10-acre property supplies products to the Bagby restaurants: Ten Ten, Bagby Pizza Co., the soon-to-open Fleet Street Kitchen near Harbor East, and Cunningham's (in the Towson City Center).

At the farm, there are 15 species of tomatoes, 240 free-range chickens, a micro-greens sanctuary, and many other vegetables, fruits, edible flowers, and herbs.

bagby dinnerLater, guests returned to the Smiths' home and were seated at an outdoor table. Chefs Chris Becker and Omar Semidey, who cook for the Bagby restaurants, prepared a dinner menu that included salt-roasted black bass, smoked honey-brined fried chicken, and a summer vegetable gratin, pictured. Various desserts were offered, including an olive-oil lemon cake and peach-and-nectarine galette. Bettina Perry, formerly of Blue Hill Tavern, is the pastry chef.

With a food lineup like this, we're expecting great things at Fleet Street Kitchen.

Photos by Lowen Howard. 

July, 12th 2012

Maryland contender for Manliest Restaurant

waterman's crab houseWaterman's Crab House in Rock Hall is one of Men's Health's nominees for "America's Manliest Restaurant." And we get to vote.

Cast your ballot (many times) at the magazine's website until July 31.

The crab house—the only Maryland restaurant in the running—was nominated in the Best Seafood Shack category, going up against impressive places like Joe's Stone Crab in Miami and Mabel's Lobster Claw Restaurant in Kennebunkport, ME.

It was picked because of the "Maryland blue crabs by the dozen and a great view," the magazine wrote on its website.

There are 45 restaurants in nine categories vying to be America's Manliest Restaurant.

Let's support our local restaurant!

Photo of the deck at Waterman's Crab House courtesy of its Facebook page. 

July, 11th 2012

Beat the heat with a sail and dinner

lady marylandThe inaugural voyage of Waterfront Kitchen's "Dinner and a Cruise" is set for July 19 with a 90-minute sail, followed by a four-course dinner at the restaurant, hosted by chef Jerry Pellegrino.

Guests will sail on either the 50-foot Chesapeake skipjack Sigsbee or the 104-foot pungy schooner Lady Maryland, pictured, depending on which night they choose. The themed dinner cruises continue through the fall.

The evenings begin at 6 p.m. (unless otherwise noted) with cocktails and hors d'oeuvres on the pier next to the restaurant. Here's the schedule:

Aboard the Sigsbee

July 19: Summertime reds and grilling

July 26: Pinot Noirs from Willamette Valley

September 18: Syrah from around the world

September 20: Sonoma vs. Napa (5:30 p.m. departure)

October 10: France's Rhone Valley (5:30 p.m. departure)

Aboard Lady Maryland

August 16: Summer wines and seafood

September 11: Wines of Argentina

September 13: Pinot Noir and fall game birds

September 25: Wines of Northern Italy

The cost is $129 a person, excluding gratuity. For more information, visit Waterfront Kitchen's website.

The events are being held to support the Living Classrooms Tall Ships program. "The program needed a champion." explains Pellegrino, "And they're right in our backyard."

By Joshua Lazarus, Baltimore magazine intern

Photo courtesy of the Living Classrooms website 

July, 10th 2012

Kickoff for Summer Restaurant Week

baltimore restaurant weekGet an early taste of Summer Restaurant Week on July 25 when several restaurants face off during a "First Course—Appetizer Challenge." The audience will be able to sample and vote on their favorite dish.

I went last year, and it was a lot of fun. It's a great reminder to make early reservations for restaurant week, which runs July 27-Aug. 5. Check out participating restaurants (more than 85) and menus here.

At the kickoff event, celebrity judges—Reagan Warfield of MIX 106.5, Sheldon Duttes of WBAL-TV, and Jen Marsh of City Paper—will also weigh in on the food, picking their favorite as well as the restaurant with the "Best Use of Locally Sourced Ingredients."

The event will be held from noon-2 p.m. on the lower level of the Light Street Pavilion at Harborplace. It's sponsored by the Downtown Partnership of Baltimore, Visit Baltimore, and Harborplace & The Gallery.

During restaurant week, diners will be offered three-course, prix-fixe dinner menus for $30.12 or $20.12 per person, not including liquor, tax, or gratuity. Select restaurants will also offer a two-course lunch menu for $15.12, not including liquor, tax, or gratuity. 

Don't forget to make reservations!


July, 9th 2012

Get ready for Cherry Day

cherry recipeGertrude's at the BMA celebrates National Rainier Cherry Day on Wednesday with a recipe for Peach Cake with Rainier Cherry Ice Cream. The Baltimore restaurant was selected to be part of a national campaign, Tree-to-Table with NW Cherries, for the second year in a row.

Gertrude's executive chef Doug Wetzel created the Peach Cake recipe for last year's promotion. Enjoy!

Peach Cake with Rainier Cherry Ice Cream

Peach Topping

6 medium fresh peaches (about 4 pounds), diced into 1/2 pieces (about 4 cups prepared fruit)

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Cake

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon table salt

8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick), softened but still cool

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 large eggs at room temperature

1 egg white at room temperature

1/3 cup whole milk at room temperature

Lightly spray 9-inch round, 2-inch deep cake pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.

For the peach topping: Combine peaches and brown sugar in 10-inch skillet; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until peaches are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Pull out the peach slices and set aside in a colander and continue to cook the caramel mixture for an additional 8-10 minutes. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla; pour caramel mixture into prepared cake pan. Set aside while preparing cake.

For the cake: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl; set aside.

In bowl of standing mixer fitted with flat beater, cream butter and sugar at medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce speed to medium, add vanilla, and beat to combine; one at a time, add whole eggs, then egg white, beating well and scraping down bowl after each addition. Reduce speed to low; add about one-third of flour mixture and beat until incorporated. Add half of milk and beat until incorporated; repeat, adding half of remaining flour mixture and remaining milk, and finish with remaining flour. Give final stir with rubber spatula, scraping bottom and sides of bowl to ensure that batter is combined. Batter will be thick.

To bake: Working quickly, distribute cooked peaches in cake pan in even layer, gently pressing fruit into caramel. Using rubber spatula, drop mounds of batter over fruit, then spread batter over fruit and to sides of pan. Tap pan lightly against work surface to release any air bubbles. Bake until cake is golden brown and toothpick inserted into center of cake comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool 10 minutes on wire rack, then place inverted serving platter over cake pan. Invert cake pan and platter together; lift off cake pan. Cool to room temperature, about 2 hours; then cut into pieces and serve.

Cherry Ice Cream

2 cups pitted cherries

1 cup half-and-half

1/2 cup sugar

4 eggs, whisked

Take 1 cup of the pitted cherries and purée them in a blender, add the cup of cherry purée to the cup of half-and-half in a flat bottom sauce pot and place on stove top.

Add the 1/2 cup of sugar to the purée/cream mixture and over medium heat, bring to a boil.

When mixture has boiled, gradually temper the mixture into whisked eggs. Add that mixture back into the pot and cook over low heat until mixture has thickened, 3-5 minutes.

Take mixture off the stove and cool down, give the remaining 1 cup of cherries a rough chop and fold them into the ice cream mixture.

Let the mixture set up overnight and spin it the next day in an ice-cream maker. 

July, 3rd 2012

Regi's reopens with pizazz

regis logoRegi's American Bistro will be open on the Fourth of July, starting at 9 a.m. for brunch, as it celebrates its comeback after a devastating electrical fire three months ago.

The popular Federal Hill restaurant welcomed back diners this past weekend to a spruced-up space and a new chef in the kitchen.

In an e-mail, owner Alan Morstein said that the restaurant will continue to serve many of its classic dishes "as well as some exciting new additions."

The new executive chef is Audiel Vera, who has worked with chefs Cindy Wolf, Jesse Sandlin, and Pat Morrow, Alan said.

Regi's is currently serving a light-fare menu. A full menu will be introduced July 12. 

July, 2nd 2012

What Woody Ate

woody harrelsonSo what did actor Woody Harrelson eat at the raw-foods dinner at the Inn at The Black Olive on Saturday? Here's the menu:

Guacamole with avocado and mango

Mushroom ceviche on endive leaves

Watermelon and tomato gazpacho

Microgreen and kohlrabi salad, pictured

Butternut squash lasagna

Strawberry and rhubarb ice cream

But Woody almost didn't make it to the dinner.

Guests started gathering at 6 p.m. at The Inn at The Black Olive's rooftop restaurant Olive Room for a kick-off event to introduce a new social group that focuses on healthy foods and yoga.

After a few hours, people were beginning to wonder if the actor would show up. You can only drink so much "green gorilla" juice (spinach, pineapple, orange, and banana), though cocktails and organic wines were also available and became increasingly popular as the night progressed.

But Woody didn't let Black Olive co-owner Dimitris Spiliadis down. He finally arrived at 8:40 p.m. after experiencing heat-related travel woes on Amtrak, claiming "divine intervention" finally got him there.

After settling in, a relaxed, charming Woody, wearing a New York Yankees cap, addressed the group. "I'm honored to be here," he said. "Raw food is where it's at."

The dinner gave the new social group called blend + flo at the Black Olive an opportunity to showcase the innovative ways that raw foods can be prepared.

salad raw foods"I'm proud we are making progress in Baltimore in helping people understand raw foods," Dimitris told the 40 some diners. "Woody put this in perspective for me. It's the way he lives."

Woody stayed at Inn for seven weeks when he was filming Game Change for HBO. "You treated me so great," Woody told Dimitris at the dinner. "More importantly, you are a great friend."

Dimitris has partnered with Stacey Vandiver and Ann Marie Barbour, who run Soul Body at Bare Hill Racquet & Fitness Club, to offer monthly events, including yoga sessions.

Woody attended a yoga class at the Inn on Sunday before heading back to New York, where he's directing an off-Broadway show, Bullet for Adolf, which opens July 19, Of course, he invited us all to stop by.

Photos by me