October, 28th 2009

Maybe Mo knows

Could the Orchard Landing Restaurant on Joppa Road in Towson become a Mo’s seafood restaurant? That’s what a recent Baltimore County liquor-license transfer would lead one to believe. However, none of the principals is talking yet.

For months, the Orchard Landing (not to be confused with the nearby Orchard Market and Cafe, which serves Persian food) has been undergoing renovations, according to a sign out front. I haven’t been inside, but the outside looks like it could use a good overhaul.

It’s come a long way from its heyday as Hersh’s Orchard Inn, a classic Baltimore special-occasion place, where charming host Hersh Pacino greeted guests by name and regaled diners with insider stories. It was a hot spot for celebs, too, like Jim Palmer and Sammy Davis Jr. When it closed in 1997, executive chef Michael Gettier took over. He eventually left to head the kitchen at Antrim 1844 Country Inn in Taneytown to continued acclaim.

The liquor license transfer to Mo’s was approved "subject to a checklist," a routine procedure of checking inspections, permits, and owners’ backgrounds. That can take 30 days. I’ll let you know what happens.

October, 27th 2009

Another Harbor East restaurant

There’s no denying that Harbor East has become a culinary destination with stalwarts like Charleston and Roy’s and newbies like Talara and Bagby Pizza Co. Even the geographical lines are starting to blur as the ritzy 'hood edges into nearby areas.

Now, a new restaurant—Milan, featuring eclectic Italian/Mediterranean cuisine—will open late this fall, according to Profiles, a media-relations agency. The new restaurant, shadowing Harbor East and Little Italy, on the corner of Eastern Avenue and Exeter Street, will feature three levels of space with a modern design and contemporary music. The main floor will house a sushi bar and a lounge surrounding a U-shaped, 30-seat bar.

In addition to Milan’s signature menu—focusing on grilled meats, hand-made pastas, bruschetta, and flatbreads—it will offer guests a selection of traditional Italian fare at an adjoining lower level cafe to be called Intermezzo.

The area's becoming positively European with a restaurant on every corner.

October, 27th 2009

The next Dogwood chapter

Okay, now the phone number at The Dogwood in Hampden has been "temporarily disconnected." It must have happened recently. I just called the restaurant a few days ago, and it rang several times, never switching to a voice mail. However, the website says it is "continuing to work to reopen." It’s been closed since July 24.

I also tried to call the nonprofit Plates Cafe and Catering in the Woman’s Industrial Exchange on North Charles Street, where chef Galen Sampson, co-owner of the Dogwood, was on the board and his wife Bridget was its acting executive director this summer. Its phone recording says that it’s closed from Oct. 12-16 for maintenance and staff training. Of course, we know today is Oct. 27.

Sadly, the whole situation isn’t looking good.

October, 26th 2009

Fine dining in Towson

Remember Blue Grotto in Towson? No? I’m not surprised. It had to be one of the most short-lived restaurants in the Baltimore County proper. One day, it was serving Mediterranean and Greek food; the next day, the owners were clearing out the property.

But the cavernous space—once a popular Sunny Surplus store—didn’t stay vacant for long. Now, it will be 7 West Bistro Grill, according to the Towson Times, a free weekly suburban paper. The liquor license transfer took place last week.

I haven’t been able to reach the new owners, but according to the newspaper, the restaurant at 7 W. Chesapeake Ave. plans to concentrate on fine dining. It could open as early as Nov. 4.

I’m not sure what the menu will be, but maybe chef Chris Patternote, who just left Taverna Corvino and was once at Towson’s VIN, is looking for a job?

October, 19th 2009

I'm back with news

Freda’s Kitchen will soon have new owners and be renamed The Falls. It’s amazing. I was out on medical leave for four weeks and I came back to a crazy quilt of restaurant news that I’ll catch up with soon. I also recently went to Volt, where Top Cheftestant Bryan Voltaggio holds court. More to come later on that experience.

But, in the meantime, I was surprised to see in the minutes of a recent Mt. Washington Improvement Association meeting that Freda’s, which has been owned by the Emmer family for about 18 months is already changing hands. Its Witness Protection sandwich (yummy corned beef, coleslaw, and Russian dressing on rye) won a "Best of Baltimore" award this year from our magazine.

When I talked to Josh Emmer today—who owns Freda’s with his parents, Linda and Martin Emmer—he said the family was ready to move on to other things. "We built a great business. We had a great time there," he said. "But our great passion is construction."

A tentative settlement date for the restaurant transfer is Oct. 30 with new owners Mike Sproge (who owned Evergreen Cafe on Cold Spring Lane from 2003 until 2007) and Tim Hofmann, whom Mike has known since they were high-school freshmen in South Jersey. Mike later went to Loyola College.

I also caught up with Mike today, who said he and Tim will close Freda’s for a couple of weeks and that they hope to reopen in mid-November. They plan to be open seven days a week, starting around 6:30 or 7 a.m., and are still determining what the menu will be as they search for a chef. It'll be light fare to start, Mike said. But what’s really important to the partners is that The Falls be a comfortable place.

"We’re not out to reinvent the wheel or have too pretentious food," Mike said. "We’re out to build a community space."

Oh, yes, another plus, they’re keeping the corned beef sandwich!

October, 13th 2009

The Scooch situation

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Hey all, this is Jess Blumberg from On The Town, guest-blogging for Suzanne. We had a funny moment at the magazine yesterday when managing editor Max Weiss told me that I had to try The Scooch sandwich at 13.5% Wine Bar in Hampden. I asked if she meant the one at Isabella's in Little Italy. We realized that the delicious Scooch—a sandwich of capicollo, soppressata, porchetta, gouda cheese, roasted peppers, greens, and balsalmic vinagrette—is available at both places. I had to get to the bottom of this.

So I called over to 13.5 and spoke with Will Bauer, who created the wine bar's menu. He explained that he's been working in the Baltimore food industry since he was 13, starting at DiPasquale's and then opening Isabella's in 2006. Bauer says The Scooch was inspired by an old coworker Dominique (or Dominooch, hence Scooch), and was first introduced at Isabella's when it opened in 2006. Bauer left the Little Italy deli a year later and met Wayne Laing, current owner of 13.5, who asked Bauer to be in charge of the wine bar's menu.

"I bring The Scooch wherever I go," says Bauer, who explained that you can also get the famed sandwich at Sapori Di Italia in Cockeysville. But it doesn't stop at The Scooch—13.5 Wine Bar offers other selections from Isabella's, including the Tuna Diavolo (Sicilian tuna, pepper cheese, hot peppers, lettuce, tomatoes, and balsamic) and the eponymous Isabella (proscuitto di parma, soppressata, capicollo, Asiago cheese, olive spread, and olive oil).

Bauer added that the Scooch's inspiration, Dominique, just packed up yesterday to move from Baltimore to Montana with his family. While its namesake may be gone, The Scooch can still be enjoyed all over town.

3:39 pm Comment Count Tags: tidbits
September, 14th 2009

Dining out for Life

Moveable Feast’s fund-raiser on Thursday (Sept. 17) has particular meaning to me this year. First, if you’re not familiar with the nonprofit group, it delivers nutritious meals to people who are living with AIDS or breast cancer.

You can help by dining out on Thursday when many restaurants in the Baltimore area will donate at least 20 percent of their sales that day to Moveable Feast. Some restaurants, like Gertrude’s, Brewer’s Art, and Woodberry Kitchen (chef/owner Spike Gjerde is chairman of the event) are sharing a whopping 50 percent of their sales. Check out a full list of participating restaurants.

Unfortunately, I won’t be able to dine out this year because I’m having surgery for my own breast cancer tomorrow (Sept. 15). The prognosis is good, and I’m very fortunate to have many people cooking meals for me during my recovery, including my favorite chef, daughter Brigitte, who dishes up great food at Miss Shirley’s.

But I hope you’ll support Moveable Feast for all the people who don’t have access to home-cooked meals.

I’ll be back to blogging soon.

10:15 am Comment Count Tags: events, restaurants
September, 10th 2009

Jesse out, Father Leo in

Jesse Sandlin of Abacrombie was told to pack her knives on last night’s Top Chef episode. But, on Food Network, Father Leo bested Bobby Flay in a fajita throwdown. I’m proud of both of them. They put Maryland in the food spotlight.

This season’s Top Chef contestants are topnotch. Jesse hung in there for a while, but she came up in the bottom group too many times. Her days were numbered. You can get a recap of the show on managing editor Max’s excellent blog.

But don’t dismiss Jesse. She does some great cooking at Abacrombie. I’m still dreaming about a red-wine braised lamb shank she cooked at an all-female chefs dinner sponsored by the Baltimore Foodies. Check out its website for other fun food events.

Father Leo Patalinghug is no cooking slouch either. He certainly kept chef Flay on his toes last night. And he’s such a charmer. I think we’ll see more of him.

2:32 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
September, 9th 2009

New chef at Cafe Gia

Chef Gianfranco Fracassetti—originally from Bergamo, Italy—has joined the kitchen staff at the popular Little Italy restaurant. The menu at Cafe Gia will stay the same, assures owner Gia Blattermann Fugate.

But chef Gianfranco, who has worked in several high-profile Italian restaurants in the area, will showcase his cooking talents through specials and seasonal fare, she says.

10:41 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, restaurants
September, 4th 2009

And the winner is

Maryland’s Father Leo or grillmeister Bobby Flay? We’ll find out on Wednesday (Sept. 9) when the Food Network airs the episode pitting the cooking priest against the Iron Chef in Throwdown with Bobby Flay at 9 p.m.

I wrote about the fajita cook-off earlier this summer. Now, the day of reckoning is almost here. To show support for Father Leo Patalinghug— who is director of pastoral field education at Mt. St. Mary’s Seminary in Emmitsburg—a free event is being held from 8-10 p.m. in Little Italy at DaMimmo’s parking lot, where guests can watch the show on a big TV screen.

Father Leo, who grew up in Brooklyn Park, will be there, too. He wants to spread the word about his program, Grace Before Meals, which encourages people to share meals. He has a website and a book with recipes to promote the endeavor.

I talked to Father Leo on the phone this week. The 39-year-old priest still remembers how nervous he was during the competition with chef Flay. "My hands were shaking," he said. "He’s the king of grilling."

If nothing else, we’re pretty sure Father Leo has God on his side

3:46 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
September, 2nd 2009

More on the burger wagon

Look for margaritas on the go next. Kooper’s Chowhound Burger Wagon has been on the road for a week now, and already owners Bill Irvin and Patrick Russell are looking ahead to having more burger wagons. They also envision re-creating a Woody’s Rum Bar—another place they own in Fells Point besides Kooper’s Tavern and Slainte— on wheels.

They’ve got all the licenses in place, said Patrick, who’s 40 and has been working in Fells Point since he was a 21-year-old bartender. I talked to him this morning on the phone before he headed out with the truck.

Currently, he contracts with businesses and office parks to park the burger wagon at predetermined locations. Today, Tide Point. Tomorrow, Johns Hopkins. For locations, check Twitter updates @BRGRwagon or the Chowhound Burger website.

This Saturday (Sept. 5), you’ll find the burger wagon, representing Maryland, at the sixth annual Hamburg-er Festival in historic Hamburg, PA, about two hours from Baltimore. It’ll be pitting its burgers against 20 other vendors. Patrick said they plan on serving about 500 burgers.

One of the reasons behind the mobile burgers is to spread the word about Kooper’s Tavern, he said. The wagon was in Hunt Valley recently, and many people weren’t familiar with the restaurant or its burgers. He said he and his partners are also exploring the possibility of opening a Kooper’s Tavern in the Baltimore County area.

Patrick also said the wagon—which has hot water and refrigeration—provides access to people who aren’t able to get to Fells Point that often. But perhaps the biggest plus, he said, is, "What we’re offering is not only safe food, but restaurant quality food on the road."

September, 1st 2009

Have Burgers Will Travel

Kooper’s Tavern now has its Chowhound Burger Wagon on the road. Look for it tomorrow (Wednesday) between 10 a.m.-2 p.m. in the 1000 block of Hull Street.

I’ve seen the distinctive beige-and-brown truck in Fells Point lately, but wasn’t sure what it was. Then, today, it was parked at Lancaster and South Caroline streets near the Living Classroom Foundation, serving up some great-looking burgers.

For $7.95, you can build your own burger—choice of 100 percent Angus beef, turkey, veggie, or bison, and add cheese, three toppings, and three sauces. There are specialty burger combos, too, plus fries and beverages available. You can sign up for Twitter updates @BRGRwagon or check its website to find out the wagon's current location and the full menu.

September, 1st 2009

Where Yankees eat

After last night’s game at Camden Yards, Yankees Derek Jeter and catcher Jorge Posada headed to Sullivan’s Steakhouse for a victory celebration, I guess. (The O’s bowed to the Yankees, 5-1, in the first of a three-game series.)

The duo downed cowboy rib-eyes, lobster tails, and margaritas, according to Andrea Kunicky of Maroon PR. I hope they enjoyed their meal, but, hopefully, we’ll make them lose their appetites tonight.

2:47 pm Comment Count Tags: tidbits
September, 1st 2009

Tapabar to serve brunch

Brunch must be the new dinner. I’m just finishing up a roundup of 35 top places for brunch and breakfast for our October issue and was surprised by how many restaurants are serving brunch these days. Narrowing the field was tough.

And now I find out on Patti Neumann’s CITYPEEK blog that Tapabar in Little Italy has joined the ranks of those offering early-day meals. I caught up with Tapabar owner Carolina Llaguno today, and she said the tapas restaurant will begin serving Sunday brunch on Sept. 13.

In case you’ve forgotten about the year-old Tapabar, it serves authentic Spanish and South American tapas. I visited the cozy restaurant recently and will have a review in our October issue. Let’s just say that I’m looking forward to returning soon.

August, 31st 2009

Two more restaurant goodbyes

Add Blue Sea Grill to the sad list of our Best Restaurants ’09 closings. Its last day was Saturday (Aug. 29). It was No. 20 (out of 50) in our rankings.

Babalu Grill—also run by the Big Steaks Management group—will be closing, too, according to a press release received today. Its last day will be Saturday (Sept. 6).

The restaurant group will focus on its Ruth’s Chris Steak House locations and the privately owned Havana Club, according to the release. In good news, the majority of Blue Sea Grill and Babalu Grill employees will be absorbed into positions at Ruth’s Chris and the Havana Club.

9:18 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
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