December, 22nd 2011

Waterfront Kitchen okay as Corks closes

“We’re fine. We’re going strong,” said Waterfront Kitchen’s chef de cuisine Levi Briggs yesterday as he was preparing for a busy dinner service. Waterfront’s consulting chef is Jerry Pellegrino, whose popular Federal Hill restaurant Corks closed last night.

Jerry will continue to work with Levi on the new restaurant’s partnership with Living Classrooms’s BUGS (Baltimore Urban Gardening with Students) program. He will also hold cooking classes that had been scheduled at Corks at Waterfront Kitchen, located on a beautiful harbor-side spot in Fells Point.

Corks closed after 14 years because of “a dispute with the landlord over facilities repairs,” a press release said. The good news for diners is that Corks gift certificates and dinner reservations will be honored at Waterfront Kitchen.

11:06 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, restaurants
December, 20th 2011

Battle of the crab meltaways

crab meltawaysRadio personality Steve Rouse may have some explaining to do. I’m making crab meltaways tonight for a holiday party, and I thought of a reader’s comments about Steve’s broiled crab puff recipe that we featured in our July issue.

At the time, Dale Doeller of Towson wrote, “While I’m not exactly questioning Steve’s ‘invention,’ I have a similar recipe that I got from a friend some 40 years ago.”

The irony is that I have the same recipe that Dale has. Evidently, a lot of us do. If you google “crab meltaways,” you get 120,000 responses.

What I like about this recipe is that it can be made ahead of time and then frozen. When you’re ready to serve the appetizer, you pop the crab triangles onto a cookie sheet and broil them for a few minutes until they’re bubbly. They’re always a hit.

But you decide. Here’s Dale’s recipe along with Steve Rouse’s. There’s not much difference. Enjoy both!

Broiled Crab Meltaways

Cook’s notes: I usually use butter instead of margarine and always double the recipe. I freeze them on cookie sheets, covered with foil, and then put them in zip bags. That way you can take out as many out as you like and broil them. These really are great!

1 package (six) English muffins
½ pound crabmeat
1 stick margarine
1 (6 ounce) jar Old English sharp cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon seasoned salt
½ teaspoon garlic salt
 
Slice English muffins in half, then cut each half into fourths, and arrange on two cookie sheets. Mix remaining ingredients well on medium speed of mixer. Spread the mixture on the English muffin quarters. Freeze them at least 30 minutes even if you plan to use them that night. They may be kept frozen for weeks. Broil until they puff up and are bubbly and slightly golden. They take just a few minutes. Serve hot.

—From Dale Doeller

Broiled Crab Puffs

Cook’s notes: “These are the most delicious things on the face of the earth," says Steve Rouse, who can also be found on his six-acre farm in Fallston when he’s not on the radio. “You have a bite-sized or two-bite-sized piece of heaven.”

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
1 (five-ounce) jar Kraft Old English sharp cheddar
4 tablespoons Hellmann's mayonnaise
1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper
4 tablespoons melted butter
2 teaspoons French's regular mustard
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
10 saltine crackers, crushed
6 English muffins

Set broiler to high. Pick over the crabmeat to remove shells. Heat the jar of cheese in the microwave until softened. Combine all ingredients except the crab and muffins, and mix well. Gently stir in the crabmeat, and spread the mix over each muffin half.

Cut each half into quarters and then place on a cookie sheet. Place the cookie sheet about six inches from the broiler, five to 10 minutes, until the tops are golden and the mixture is bubbly. Watch to make sure they don't burn (if they get too brown, they are too close to the broiler).

—From Steve Rouse

Check out other local celebrity crab-dip recipes.

Photo courtesy of tastebook.com

 

 

6:04 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
December, 20th 2011

Vote Baltimore as the tastiest town

southern livingMy Southern Living arrived yesterday with a surprise. Baltimore was named one of the top 10 tastiest towns in the South along with New Orleans and Charleston, S.C.

The blurb in the January issue, pictured, reads: “Sizzling Harbor East ’hood, crab cakes, and restaurants with a fierce sense of place.”

That’s high praise from Southern Living’s staff, who “gathered for a summit here in our Test Kitchen, pared it down to 10 nominees, and are putting it to a vote this month,” wrote M. Lindsay Bierman in his editor’s note.

We face some tough competition, but if everyone’s casts a vote, who knows, maybe we can win this food fight between the states. The winner will be announced in the magazine’s April issue, which will also include culinary information about every town on the list.

Voting starts on Friday. Go here to vote.

11:10 am Comment Count Tags: contest, magazines
December, 19th 2011

Helping the hungry

chris fordA Food Network truck and Chris Ford, executive pastry chef at Wit & Wisdom in the new Four Seasons, will be at the Whole Foods Market in Harbor East from 4-8 p.m. today, collecting customer donations to benefit the Maryland Food Bank.

The chef, pictured, will also be shopping for nutritious pantry items and fresh foods during the event. These products are needed to help fill a shortage among Food Bank donations.

The initiative is part of a joint project involving the Food Network, Share Our Strength, and Whole Foods for a food drive in Baltimore to help alleviate childhood hunger. Food Network and Whole Foods are partners in Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign.

The Food Network is also donating thousands of items to the Maryland Food Bank, including cans of vegetables, tuna, and soup. But there’s always a need for more.

Photo courtesy of starchefs.com

11:24 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
December, 16th 2011

Morton’s Steakhouse chain to be sold

morton'sMorton’s Restaurant Group is being sold to an affiliate of Landry’s Inc., according to the Baltimore Business Journal. The Chicago-based Morton’s has two Maryland restaurants: one at the Sheraton Inner Harbor and another in Bethesda.

The Chicago Tribune reported today that the affiliate plans to revamp Morton’s and introduce new items to the menu. The transaction is expected to close in early February 2012, the paper said.

In another recent transaction, Landry’s agreed to buy McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant chain, the BBJ reported. McCormick & Schmick’s has four Maryland locations, including one at the Inner Harbor.

Landry’s owns Rainforest Cafe and Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Bubba Gump is planning to open a restaurant in May 2012 in the Harborplace spot vacated by Phillips Seafood.

I’m not sure how all this shakes down for the chain restaurants here. I’ll be keeping track of any changes.

Photo of Morton’s double cut filet, courtesy of Morton’s The Steakhouse’s website

December, 16th 2011

Last call for the farmers’ market

applesYou get one more chance this year to shop and nosh at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market under the JFX. The popular outdoor shopping venue ends its season on Sunday.

The market—with local produce, other foods, concessions, and crafts—opens at 7 a.m. and closes around noon. Some stands shut down earlier if they sell out of items.

Like a harbinger of spring, it will reopen in early April 2012.

Photo by Mark Dennis, courtesy of the Baltimore Office of Promotions and The Arts

December, 16th 2011

Restaurateur Morris Martick dies

Morris “Maurice” Martick, the eccentric restaurateur who ran Martick’s Restaurant Francais for many years in downtown Baltimore, died this morning, according to The Baltimore Sun.

The quirky restaurant on W. Mulberry Street had closed in 2008. At the time, Martick told the press he was tired. No wonder. He was 86 then.

Baltimore diners sadly said goodbye to the elegant pâté, roasted duck, and bouillabaisse that Martick prepared in a kitchen behind the dining room that had become quite worn-out over the years.

We last heard about Martick in an April 2011 Baltimore magazine profile about Henry Wong, who transformed An die Musik into one of the city’s busiest concert venues.

In the story, staff writer John Lewis wrote about an occasion where Martick, a regular guest at An die Musik, approached Wong at the end of a meal at the Chinese restaurant Zhongshan, asking him, “What’s on tap for tonight?”

It was American jazz. As Martick left the restaurant, Wong made a comment that many of us would agree with: “That man, Morris, is full of history. It’s an honor just to know him.”

Martick’s restaurant was also a regular on our annual Best Restaurants list. In 2007, we wrote:

“If you have an ounce of flexibility and sense of adventure, please go, and go often. Slurp down the sweet potato soup; wolf the house made pâté; revel in the bouillabaisse, or the scallops over jasmine rice and brandied seafood. Wash it down with copious amounts of passable red wine in tiny little wine glasses.”

It’s too late now, of course. But Martick left behind a generation of diners who will always remember the man, the food, and the chipped blue door, where you had to reach up to press the doorbell before gaining admittance to the restaurant.

3:28 pm Comment Count Tags: obit
December, 13th 2011

Werner’s luncheonette to reopen

woman's industrial kitchen interiorWerner’s, a longtime downtown restaurant that closed in April, will be reopening in March under new ownership, according to the Baltimore Business Journal. The popular lunchroom on East Redwood Street will be operated by John Smoudianis, manager of Never on Sunday in Mt. Vernon.

Smoudianis will continue to offer some of the restaurant’s favorite comfort food dishes like hot plates of turkey and roast beef, but he will also have paninis, salads, and grilled salmon on the menu, the BBJ reported today.

This is great news, especially coming on the heels of the reopening last week of the dining space at the Woman’s Industrial Exchange. I was there today for one of its retro lunches: chicken salad, tomato aspic, and a deviled egg ($9).

Irene Smith, pictured, who runs the restaurant now called Woman’s Industrial Kitchen, was milling around in her colorful smock apron, greeting customers and waiting on tables. The place was packed.

The room is dedicated to famous and unknown Maryland women who made a difference. I sat at a table honoring Emily Post, who was born in Baltimore. It was fun looking at the laminated photos and passages on the tabletop. The rest of the décor is also interesting and meaningful.

Irene told me that 19 family members of one of the former waitresses, Marguerite Schertle, will be dining at the restaurant on Saturday. I’m sure they’ll enjoy the walk down memory lane.

After all, the chicken salad is named after Marguerite. 

Photo by me

 

 

December, 13th 2011

Globetrotters vs. Faidley Seafood

harlem globetrottersAnd everyone’s a winner. Harlem Globetrotters Curly Neal and Handles Franklin will visit Faidley Seafood in Lexington Market tomorrow (Dec. 14) to learn about Faidley’s popular crab cakes.

The players will be there at 11 a.m. They'll  also be performing some of their Globetrotters’ magic in front of the crowd.

The event is part of a goodwill tour to promote the Globetrotters' double-header at the 1st Mariner Arena on Dec. 30.

We’re sure Curly and Handles will enjoy some Baltimore goodwill as well.

Photo of Handles Franklin with fans, courtesy of the Harlem Globetrotters website.

11:36 am Comment Count Tags: events
December, 12th 2011

Frankenfish tacos, anyone?

alewife chefSnakehead will be on the menu at the next Fresh Thoughts Dining Series dinner, along with crab, blue catfish, and more. Chad Wells, the executive chef at Alewife Baltimore and an avid angler, will be giving a cooking demo at the four-course dinner on Jan. 24 at the National Aquarium.

The menu also includes Maryland blue crab in the first course, snakehead in the Frankenfish tacos, a deconstructed paella with smoked Chesapeake gold oyster and squid-ink rice cake, seared blue catfish in chipotle aioli, and a Crispin cider doughnut.

Guests will also enjoy a cocktail reception, dinner paired with regional wine, a stroll through the Aquarium, and receive recipes and information about where to purchase sustainable seafood locally. 

Tickets for the 6:30-9 p.m. event are $79 for Aquarium members, $89 for non-members. For information, visit the Fresh Thoughts website.

Photo of chef Chad Wells, left, with a snakehead at Alewife. The other man is unidentified.

3:38 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, events
December, 8th 2011

Washington Post reviews Chameleon

chameleonThe Chameleon gets a positive nod this week from The Washington Post's esteemed restaurant critic Tom Sietsema. The dining review's headline says it all: "Good karma found at this Chameleon." Read more.

I'm glad Tom discovered Lauraville and The Chameleon, which celebrated its 10th anniversary last year. In his review he writes, "'No tourist would come here,' a son of Baltimore tells me over dinner. Their loss."

Indeed. We know its charms. We gave The Chameleon, one of our perennial Best Restaurants, a 2011 Best of Baltimore award for best farm-to-table restaurant.

Chameleon chef/co-owner Jeff Smith—a pioneer along the Harford Road corridor—deserves recognition beyond Baltimore.

Photo courtesy of The Chameleon's website 

December, 6th 2011

Riptide is ready for the next step

cyrus keeferRiptide by the Bay in Fells Point has hired a new chef, updated the menu, and will be introducing fine dining in a refurbished second-floor dining room in the spring.

"It was always a long-term goal," said general manager Meredith Rippel, whose husband Roger is a co-owner of the restaurant. "It took some time. The first step was getting our foot in the door."

When the Rippels opened Riptide four years ago, they were the "new kid on the block," Meredith said. "It wasn't easy."

But their bar food, combining West Coast and Baltimore flavors, and steamed crabs eventually drew a crowd to the outdoor breezeway and cozy first-floor dining room and bar.

They still want to attract those customers, Meredith said, but are hoping to bring in new diners with upscale cuisine in the upstairs room—which has great views of the water—when it's complete. There also will be an upper-level outdoor deck.

In the meantime, new chef Cyrus Keefer has been making changes to the current menu, adding entrees for the first time and creating "small bites." The new offerings should be available next week.

The main dishes include pan-seared scallops with cauliflower puree, seafood cioppino, braised beef short rib, and pan-roasted cod. The appetizers sound amazing, too: cheese-steak spring rolls, wild mushroom & Gruyére pot stickers, and chicken nuggets with bacon, white-cheddar dipping sauce, waffles, and maple butter ($11). Yum.

Cyrus—who trained at Philadelphia's Walnut Hill College Restaurant School—is no stranger to Baltimore kitchens. He was previously at Maisy's and, this summer, won the People's Choice award at the annual Crab Bash at B&O American Brasserie for his "Blue Crab and White Corn Raviolini."

He also headed the kitchen at the short-lived Brasserie 10 South on South Calvert Street, which received 3 ½ stars from The Sun's previous reviewer Elizabeth Large in 2009.

But Cyrus, pictured right with sous chef Adam Scanlon, is happy to be at Riptide with the Rippels. "I have a vision. They have a vision," he said. "We're going to go somewhere special."

Photo by me 

December, 5th 2011

Open Tues.: Woman's Industrial Kitchen

woman's industrial kitchenOn the menu, chicken salad, tomato aspic, meatloaf, and more. Chef Tina Perry, formerly a sous chef at The Chameleon in Lauraville, will be re-creating these familiar dishes that were once served in the Woman's Industrial Exchange restaurant space that has variously been called the Lunch Room and Tea Room in the past.

Whirlwind entrepreneur Irene Smith—also known for her Souper Freak food truck—is the force behind the new enterprise, now called Woman's Industrial Kitchen. She recently raised more than $10,000 in a seven-day kickstarter.com campaign for the restaurant.

"We wanted to create the idea that home cooking has value," she said on the phone today. "It's a version of love. This food reminds you of the best dishes you've had."

The décor also honors Maryland women, with dining-room tables named after well-known and unsung residents, like Billie Holiday, Harriet Tubman, Zelda Fitzgerald, and Dr. Eugenie Clark (a shark expert). Irene has also decorated the walls with photos of women taken by famous photographer A. Aubrey Bodine that she bought at auction.

Besides celebrating local women, Irene also hopes the new restaurant—enter through the Woman's Industrial Exchange and head toward the back of the room, though you may want to shop for homemade items first—will lure people to the 300 block of North Charles Street.

"We want to bring it back," she said of the area. "We want to rebuild the heart of Baltimore."

A website with a menu is coming soon, maybe even tonight. In the meantime, you can find out about the Woman's Industrial Kitchen on Twitter. The restaurant will be open from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues.-Sun.

December, 5th 2011

Bel Air bakery wins Cupcake Wars

jason hisleyAnd their next challenge is to open a bakery in Cockeysville. Now that Flavor Cupcakery won last night's episode of Food Network's Cupcake Wars, owner Shelley Stannard is eyeing a second location in Baltimore County in 2012, according to a press release.

The bakery's lead pastry chef is Jason Hisley, pictured. As soon as I found out Jason's last name, I realized that I knew him. I had talked to him in August 2010 when he was the pastry chef at Roland Park Bagel Co.

At the time, Jason told me he was a graduate of Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island, where he graduated with a bachelor's degree in baking and pastry. He had worked at Panera Bread and a catering company in Bethesda before landing at the bagel shop and now Flavor Cupcakery.

For the TV competition, Jason had to bake cupcakes pegged to "The Nutcracker" ballet.

The bakery's winning episode will air again at 8 p.m. Tuesday if you missed it. A viewing party was held last night at the Dark Horse Saloon in Bel Air. Check out photos from the party on Flavor Cupcakery's Facebook page.

Photo by me, taken in 2010 

12:18 pm Comment Count Tags: cupcakes, TV
December, 5th 2011

Would you say no to Robert DeNiro?

chazz deniroEvidently, actor Robert DeNiro was so impressed with his visit to Chazz: A Bronx Original this past Saturday that he told his friend Chazz Palminteri, a restaurant partner, that he wanted him to consider opening his next restaurant in New York City.

I'm not sure what Chazz's answer was, but when I talked to him this summer before the Harbor East restaurant was even open, he said that he was already considering opening six or seven Chazz restaurants throughout the country. He mentioned Las Vegas and Atlantic City as possible future spots.

I guess he better think about NYC, too.

DeNiro and Chazz, pictured at the restaurant, have been friends since DeNiro made his directorial debut in the movie A Bronx Tale (1993), which starred Chazz.

For lunch on Saturday, DeNiro's group enjoyed the veal meatball appetizer with fresh whipped ricotta cheese, a pizza made with burrata cheese, a caprese salad, penne with blackened chicken, and a few of the homemade desserts.

DeNiro was on his way to the Kennedy Center Honors program in D.C.

Photo courtesy of Edith Williams of Diamond Digital Portraits 

11:09 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
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