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September 25th, 2008

The chef is back

You may remember Christian DeLutis as one of B-mag’s top singles. We knew him as the creative executive chef at The Wine Market in Locust Point. Christian left in early May to head to Ireland for a cooking gig. But securing a work visa proved difficult, and now he’s back in Baltimore, looking for a place to open his own restaurant.

He’s targeting Fells Point, Mount Vernon, or Piers 5 or 6. Christian says he’s taking his time to find just the right place and doesn’t expect to be in business until next spring or fall. The chef already has a concept: reinventing American classics and serving all-American wines and bourbon.

In the meantime, you can find Christian at Brasserie Tatin, where he’s doing consulting work with the kitchen and helping put together a new menu to be unveiled toward the end of October.

But back to The Wine Market, executive chef Jason Lear smoothly picked up DeLutis’s reins and has galloped forward with his own menu interpretations. I was there last night and had a wonderful fall starter among other dishes: a 12-hour braised oxtail ragout with buckwheat potato gnocchi. Simply delicious.

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