August, 30th 2010

Helen's GardenI caught up with the Canton restaurant’s new owner Mark Bogosh today. He—and his partners, Thomas Welsch and Brittany Branamer—will be calling their new place Plug Ugly’s Public House after an eponymous 1850s Baltimore political gang.

“There are so many Irish and English places,” Mark said on the phone from his office at HALO Transport. “We thought it would be good to celebrate Baltimore’s history.”

But don’t make a reservation yet. Plug Ugly’s won’t be open until the beginning of December, Mark said. The owners plan to make renovations, including opening up the space.

Helen’s Garden is still going strong (though I was told by the restaurant’s bookkeeper that it would be closing by Sept. 15). The restaurant is posting regularly on its Facebook page offering menu items like braised baby back ribs, snapper with wild mushroom risotto, and grilled T-Bone with Chianti beet (cq) reduction, and the enticement, “You know you want it, come and get it!”

I asked Mark about the status of Helen’s Garden chef Annemarie Langton, who has a huge following there. “If she has an interest in staying, there’s a place for her,” he said.

While Plug Ugly’s menu hasn’t been decided yet, Mark hopes to offer cuisine similar to Helen’s Garden. “We want to keep the same clientele,” he said.

5:54 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, restaurants, what's new
August, 27th 2010

pastry chef jasonRoland Park Bagel Co. still has an assortment of fat bagels, but the display case is also filled with freshly baked, beautiful (and delicious) cupcakes, chunky cookies, fruit scones, muffins, and more, produced by the shop’s new pastry chef, Jason Hisley, pictured.

When I talked to Jason this morning, he had been at the store since 4 a.m., turning out dozens of baked goods, including the bagels, for customers. He took a few minutes to sit down and tell me about his path to Roland Park Bagel Co.

The 21-year-old Baltimore native is a graduate of Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island, where he graduated with a bachelor’s degree in baking and pastry. He was a baker at Panera Bread and for a catering company in Bethesda before landing at the bagel shop, which is owned by Eddie Dopkin, three months ago. And he’s excited about the possibilities there.

For winter, Jason is working on making bread puddings, using leftover bagels. He likes to use natural ingredients and fruits in season, he says. From what I sampled, the products hold true to that.

The peach scone is moist and, well, peachy. Jason also adds interesting touches to his cupcakes ($2.25 each), like a marshmallow on top of the s’mores one, a piece of cookie on the chocolate chip, pastel frostings on the red velvet, and fresh blueberries on the lemon-blueberry.

“My take is that pastries are a little piece of art for the senses,” he says.

And his baked goods are not just pretty, they’re yummy as well.

12:04 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, what's new
August, 24th 2010

flatbreadB&O touted on Facebook yesterday that one of chef E. Michael Reidt’s flatbread recipes was featured in the magazine’s September restaurant issue. Today, my Bon Appétit arrived in the mail and, sure enough, on page 120, there's a nod to B&O’s Flatbread with Arugula, Asparagus, and Fried Egg, pictured.

It’s one of six recipes featured in the magazine’s “Eating at the Bar” story. (I would have seen my magazine earlier, but I was enjoying an extended restaurant week meal at Tangier’s Bistro, where you get five courses, not the typical three, for $35.10.)

Back to Reidt. He’s known for coming up with interesting “market” flatbreads (as well as other dishes). They change regularly. You might find toppings like spiced sweet potato, kale, farmer’s egg and truffle cheese, for instance, or duck confit. The ones I’ve had are good.

Reidt’s food is one of the reasons we picked B&O American Brasserie as Baltimore magazine’s best new restaurant in our August issue. There’s still time to come to the Best of Baltimore party on Thursday to celebrate all the winners and also to help out a worthy cause, The Family Tree. Hope to see you there.

Photo courtesy of Bon Appétit 

 

 

 

9:01 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, restaurants, what's new
August, 20th 2010

chocolate classI like this. For the first time, Baltimore International College is offering Food Enthusiast classes, which will begin in September. An array of noncredit seminars and hands-on demos will be taught in the evening by experienced BIC chef instructors at the school’s Culinary Arts Center in Little Italy.

In an online catalog, you’ll find classes like Introduction to Cheese Making (Oct. 7, $80), Mediterranean Cooking (Oct. 14, $80), Basic Techniques to Prepare Chocolate (Sept. 30, $60), and lots of other interesting topics from basic knife skills and holiday dishes to healthy cooking.

These sessions sound like a great way to learn more about food preparation and have a great night out with fellow food lovers.

9:31 am Comments: 0 Tags: classes
August, 18th 2010

Chef Brian BostonSeveral restaurants have already decided to extend Baltimore Restaurant Week, which officially ends Sunday, according to Sara Hisamoto of Visit Baltimore, a partner in the promotion. She also expects the list to grow by the end of the week.

So far, Lebanese Taverna will continue offering prix-fixed dinner menus for $35.10 until Aug. 27; Tangier’s Bistro Bar till Aug. 29; Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano, Sept. 1; and The Prime Rib, Sept. 5.

The Baltimore Restaurant Week website will be updated with an “e” next to the restaurants who extend their days. Since dates vary with each restaurant, Sara advises diners to also call ahead to check.

In Baltimore County, The Milton Inn will lengthen its restaurant week specials through the first week of September. “We’re having great success with it,” says executive chef Brian Boston, pictured, who organized the county’s first restaurant week. He also anticipates other restaurants adding on days.

Boston said that six restaurants have asked to join the fledgling group of 15 for the winter restaurant week, which will also coincide with the city’s week. No dates have been set yet, Sara says.

4:06 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, events, restaurants
August, 13th 2010

Salt's CureChris Phelps, who trained under Mark Henry at The Oregon Grille and was a sous chef at Ixia, is officially opening his restaurant Salt’s Cure on Saturday with co-owner Zack Walters. Proud mom Kathy Alexander of Harbor East wanted to share the news.

The restaurant, which had a soft opening several weeks ago, is already getting favorable media coverage. One guest said he had an, “incredibly juicy, flavor-packed pulled pork with pickled onions on Breadbar [artisanal] rolls and a perfectly crisp BLT with the usual suspects piled atop whole grain brioche bread also from Breadbar. And then that watermelon simply adorned with honey and sea salt.”

Chris, 30, and Zack—pictured from left during the construction phase of Salt’s Cure, billed as an American restaurant/butcher shop—specialize in the meats of organically raised animals. According to Chris’s mom, he “butchers the animal, dry-aging the expensive cuts, and turning the less desirable cuts into sausage, bacon, prosciutto, pancetta, bresaola … without introducing nitrates.”

Chris isn’t the only Maryland restaurateur in Los Angeles. Frederick native Michael Voltaggio, season six Top Chef winner, is also planning to open his own restaurant there. He’s been quoted as saying that he wants “to make fine dining more accessible to more people.”

10:46 am Comments: 0 Tags: restaurants
August, 11th 2010

Towson CourthouseCrush, the fine-dining restaurant near Belvedere Square, has created a little outpost in Towson, called, appropriately, Crush Cafe. “We thought it was a good opportunity and in the right area,” said Crush’s chef/owner Daniel Chaustit by phone.

The upscale deli, at 210 W. Pennsylvania Ave., is near the Towson Courthouse, pictured, and the many law offices in the Baltimore County government seat.

It opened about a month and a half ago, but the restaurant is just starting to spread the word. You’ll find custom-made sandwiches like roasted turkey on ciabatta with Brie, apples, and honey mustard, and roast beef with arugula and farm cheese, Dan said.

The cafe also will serve Crush restaurant’s wonderful tomato soup with teeny, grilled-cheese-sandwich croutons, I’m told. It’s open from 7:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. The phone number is 410-825-3040.

Photo courtesy of baltimore-maryland.org

3:36 pm Comments: 0 Tags: restaurants
August, 11th 2010

Julia RobertsThe movie Eat Pray Love may be all about character Elizabeth Gilbert’s quest for self-fulfillment, but the “Eat” portion, set in Rome and Naples, is all about being full.

The food scenes are gorgeous (truly food porn)—icy gelatos, huge plates of spaghetti glistening with red sauce and perfectly fresh basil, platters of squash blossoms, rabbit ragù, pale-pink prosciutto with the ripest orange melon slices, spring-green stalks of asparagus, and rich, gooey pizza. You can almost smell the aromas.

I saw the move last night at a screening. (I’ll let the critics duke out its merits.) But if you’re one of author Liz Gilbert’s seven million plus fans (often called Lizbians) and head to the movie, which starts on Friday, you may want to eat first. Not only will the food scenes stir your appetite, you’ll be in the theater a while. The running time is 133 minutes (though the “Love” part is brightened considerably by the appearance of Javier Bardem).

Even before the movie opens, news reports detail the numbers of women re-tracing the footsteps of Gilbert (played by Julia Roberts) as she travels to Italy, India, and Bali—including her food stops. Evidently, Il Gelato di San Crispino is seeing an influx of single female tourists, often clutching Gilbert's memoir EPL, stopping by for a cold treat.

There’s also been a discussion about the “controversial pasta scenes”—the controversy being women and their relationship with food. The film’s director Ryan Murphy is quoted as saying, “in our culture right now, there’s so much guilt around food and appetite, so having a scene where a woman eats with unabashed joy is amazing and lovely."

Agreed.

11:43 am Comments: 0 Tags: events
August, 10th 2010

BUGS studentsFrom 12:30-2:30 p.m. today (Wednesday), several city students will share their bounty at a farm stand in front of the Living Classrooms Foundation on South Caroline Street. I stumbled upon the mini farmers’ market last week and am sorry that I didn’t discover it sooner.

With the capable help of Ayonna, 9, and Diamond, 11, pictured from left, both students at Johnson Square Elementary School—and under the guidance of educator Jason Madden—I purchased a jar of delicious blueberry jam ($7) and freshly made chili flakes ($2, great on pizza that week). The students' spread also included jars of pickles, pesto, salad dressing, and sauerkraut; dried herbs; fresh garlic; green peppers, and more.

The food was grown and canned by elementary- and middle-school students who are part of the BUGS (Baltimore Urban Gardening with Students) program, which teaches kids various skills to help increase their academic performance.   

Ayonna and Diamond were very polite and professional in their duties, writing out a receipt for my purchases and marking the transaction in an inventory book.

Tomorrow is the last day for the downtown farm stand, but the students also have a table at the Hamilton Farmers’ Market on Tuesdays, Jason said. You can check out the wares from 4-8 p.m. at 4500 Harford Rd., between the Safeway parking lot and Zeke’s Coffee—and help a really worthwhile cause.  

12:49 pm Comments: 0 Tags: events
August, 9th 2010

Pasta with Tomatoes and Goat CheeseI had a bunch of cherry tomatoes from the farmers’ market and a lot of basil growing in my garden. What to make? After searching epicurious.com, I came up with a recipe that used those ingredients plus olives, goat cheese, and pasta. I made it last night. It’s a great summer dish that I’ll be making again.

Pasta with Tomatoes and Goat Cheese

1 pound gemelli or penne
2 3/4 pound cherry tomatoes, halved
5 to 6 ounces soft mild goat cheese, crumbled
2/3 cup coarsely chopped kalamata or other brine-cured black olives
3/4 cup torn fresh basil leaves

Cook pasta in a 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until just tender, then drain. While pasta is cooking, toss tomatoes with salt to taste (I used 2 teaspoons kosher salt) in a bowl and let juices exude.

Toss hot pasta with goat cheese in a large bowl until cheese is melted and coats pasta. Add tomatoes with juices, olives, basil, and salt and pepper to taste and toss to combine. Serves 4-6.
—From Gourmet, September 2000

Photo by Quintin Bacon, courtesy of epicurious.com

5:06 pm Comments: 0 Tags: recipes
August, 6th 2010

celie's signChef Bill Crouse, executive chef at Slainté and Woody’s Rum Bar, is leading an olive-oil tasting class on Sunday at 11 a.m. at Celie’s Waterfront Inn in Fells Point. He will offer some of the world’s finest olive oils, according to an e-mail from the restaurant and B&B owners.

The cost is $65 a person and includes the tasting, a book of recipes, a complimentary mimosa, and a surprise. For tickets, contact chef Bill.

3:42 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, events, restaurants
August, 6th 2010

chef tyler florenceGuess what? Food Network’s Tyler Florence is genuine, fun, and down-to-earth. You never know what you’ll find with these celeb chefs, who, admittedly, are very busy and often besieged by fans.

But after throwing out the first pitch at last night’s O’s game, the charming Tyler stopped by a VIP suite to hold court with several local bloggers—including Coconut and Lime and Taste of Baltimore—and me!

Flushed with heat or excitement, he shared his enthusiasm about throwing out the ball. It was his second time (the first was at a Dodgers game two weeks ago). “I threw better,” he said with his characteristic boyish grin.

He’s been making the round at ballparks to promote healthy eating with grapes in a promotion by the California Table Grape Commission. So it was no surprise that there was a big display of fresh grapes on a table and hot dogs with grape relish among other snacks. He really likes frozen grapes, he shared.

Before the game, Tyler and his crew stopped by Chaps pit beef restaurant on Pulaski Highway and were impressed by the beef sandwiches. None of the restaurant personnel recognized him, he said. Ironically, the group ate at a table near an autographed poster of Guy Fieri, another Food Network brethren, who did a segment on Chaps for his Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives show.

No time for Baltimore crabs, though. Tyler was on a whirlwind, less-than-24-hour tour and headed back to his home in northern California last night. Before he left, he patiently answered questions, while munching on grapes the whole time.

Here are some tidbits about his new wine label, a restaurant with rocker Sammy Hagar, and what he thinks of Anthony Bourdain:

Personal: The 39-year-old chef—who was born in South Carolina but lived most of his life in New York—is married with two children, ages three and one (his daughter will be two on Sunday). (He evidently has another child, but he didn't mention him.) “My wife is a saint,” he said when asked about how he handles being away from home for his many ventures. “She understands.”

New TV show: He’s host of The Great Food Truck Race, which starts Aug. 15. “It made sense,” he said. “The collapsed economy is the reason why food trucks are so big right now.”

On the Food Network: “I wouldn’t be anyone without those guys,” he said. “I really love what I do.”

On Anthony Bourdain’s disdain of the Food Network: “He can’t cook. … Les Halles [Bourdain’s former restaurant] is terrible.” (Ouch!)

New cookbook: “Family Meal: Bringing People Together Never Tasted Better” to be released Oct. 12. This book, with 250 recipes, will have about twice as many recipes as his other cookbooks. Tyler said he’s gotten better at compiling a cookbook. In the beginning, it would take him about 18 months. Now, he puts it together in about six weeks.

Wine: Yes, there will be Tyler Florence wine! He’s paired with Michael Mondavi to release four varietals soon.

Restaurants: Of course, he has restaurants. He opened three in the past year—Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco, Tyler Florence’s Rotisserie and Wine in Napa, CA, and El Paseo with partner/rocker Sammy Hagar in Mill Valley, CA.

Next food trend: “Pie will be the new cupcake,” he predicted.

I’m sure Rodney Henry of Dangerously Delicious Pies will be glad to hear that.

12:55 pm Comments: 2 Tags: chefs, events
August, 4th 2010

The Food Network is pitting the two restaurants’ crab cakes against each other this week at the Inner Harbor’s Rash Field. The taste test will be featured on a new show called Food Feuds.

Gertrude’s, considered the underdog against the powerhouse Faidley, is hoping you’ll show up for the final taping at 1:30 p.m. Friday at Rash Field. An e-mail press release pleads, “We need your help and support.” The crab-cake winner will be announced at the taping.

Gertrude’s will be bringing drinks and snacks for supporters, too.

The showdown should be interesting. The Faidley crab cake—which won our Best of Baltimore throwdown against G&M—is a fat lump patty to reckon with.

A Food Network representative told me weeks ago that G&M didn’t want to be part of the show. Hmmm, are they afraid?

Photo of Faidley’s crab cake courtesy of roadfood.com

12:12 pm Comments: 0 Tags: events, restaurants
August, 4th 2010

Who won the crab competition at B&O American Brasserie, which was supporting a good cause and celebrating its first anniversary last night? Read on to find out the winner.

I had the honor of being a guest judge at the Crab Bash along with other food-loving folks: Jamie Costello of WMAR, Reagan Warfield of Mix 106.5, and blogger Dara Bunjon. Our delicious task was not easy.

The dishes from seven local and visiting chefs were great. Here’s a rundown:

Jason Ambrose, Salt: sriracha sauce, avocado crab ball with corn and tomato salad.

E. Michael Reidt, B&O American Brasserie: smoked crab cake with creamed corn and tomato and liquid ravioli.

Jay Silva, Bambara, Cambridge, MA: sweet corn and crab ravioli with chorizo chips and basil oil.

Christian deLutis, formerly of Alizée and The Dogwood: sweet corn and crab salad with plantain polenta and diced guacamole.

Guillermo Tellez, Square 1682, Philadelphia: blue crab salad with heirloom tomatoes, pickled beets, and candy fennel.

Paul Healey, Domaso, Arlington, VA: crab spanakopita with charred red pepper aioli and micro basil.

Dave Newman, The Brewer’s Art: Maryland crab cake, popcorn sauce, and beer.

The 200 guests, who were keeping score, too, for people’s choice awards, spread out among the restaurant’s two floors sampling the food, while also enjoying a complimentary drink—back-porch lemonade with citrus vodka—created by B&O head bartender Brendan Dorr. It was quite the spread for $10 a person.

All the money went to charity. The sold-out event raised about $2,000 for Great Kids Farm, which helps city school students learn about food—from seed to table.

Finally, Jamie, Reagan, Dara, and I compared notes and reached a consensus—though we really thought all the dishes were winners.

The results: overall winner, The Brewer’s Art; honorable mention for presentation, Salt; honorable mention for flavor, Square 1682; and honorable mention for creativity, Christian deLutis.

Congratulations to all. The best part? B&O will do it again next year.

11:03 am Comments: 0 Tags: events, restaurants
August, 3rd 2010

chef tyler florenceFood Network chef and cookbook author Tyler Florence will throw out the first pitch at Camden Yards on Thursday as the O’s take on the Angels. That should create some excitement at the game besides new manager Buck Showalter.

The chef will be here as part of an initiative by the California Table Grape Commission to promote healthy ballpark food using grapes. (See recipe below.) Fans will also be able to purchase fresh grapes at the concession stand and get their picture taken with a colorful bunch of grape mascots­—if they’re so inclined.

After Tyler Florence finishes with his official ball duties, he¹ll head to a VIP suite to discuss food and grapes with invited guests. I am one of them!

I’ll write more about the event on Friday. Meanwhile, enjoy this recipe from the grape group.

Ballpark Dogs with Tangy Grape Relish

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: about 5 to 7 minutes

Tangy Grape Relish

1/2 cup each: diced red and green California seedless grapes

1/4 cup diced red onion

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon mustard seed

1 clove garlic, minced

Ballpark Dogs

8 turkey franks

Whole-wheat hot-dog buns

Honey mustard

Tangy Grape Relish: Stir together first 6 ingredients (through garlic); set

aside.

Ballpark Dogs: Grill franks over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes, turning occasionally, or until nicely charred and heated through. Place buns on grill, cut side down, and cook for a minute or so to toast. Place franks in buns and drizzle with honey mustard. Using a slotted spoon, top with grape relish. 

 

8:31 pm Comments: 0 Tags: chefs, events