January, 19th 2009

Coffee and the Inauguration

Better than Obama Bobbleheads, Zeke’s Roastery in Lauraville has come up with a great way to honor our next president—Executive Order, a blend of coffee representing Barak Obama’s heritage.

The limited-edition mix— Kenyan coffee, Sumatra Mandheling, and certified Hawaiian Kona beans—is available at Zeke’s for $15 a pound, $8 a half-pound. Sounds like a great way to wake up to our new administration.

The Zeke’s folks are also hoping to get some of the robust stuff to Obama during the Inauguration by sending a pound or two along with friends going to the ceremony. The president-elect seemed impressed with Baltimore when he visited on Saturday. Just wait till he tastes our coffee.

12:46 pm Comment Count Tags: events, local foods
January, 16th 2009

Andy Wyeth's favorite place to eat

Iconic American artist Andrew Wyeth died today at age 91. I was lucky enough to have had a brief, pleasant encounter a couple of years ago with the private painter when I was doing a newspaper story on his granddaughter Victoria Wyeth. He was very proud of her. Victoria, who was close to her grandfather, gives insightful, playful tours at the Brandywine River Museum in Chadds Ford, Pa. (about 1 ½ hours from Baltimore), where many of the Wyeth family paintings are displayed. Andy, as locals and family call him, lived nearby with his wife, Betsy.

Andy was no recluse in the area that set the scene for many of his stark, somber works in the Brandywine Valley. In fact, he could often be found at Hank’s Place near U.S. 1 and Route 100 in Pennsylvania with many of the regulars who posed for his paintings, including Helga Testorf. You may remember a bit of shock and awe when Andy’s nude paintings of Helga were discovered in the mid-1980s. But that’s history, and the family has dismissed the "scandal," Victoria told me.

I stopped by Hank’s—its motto is "Where Hungry People Eat and Friendly People Meet"—several times for a bite to eat while on various story assignments in the area. Andy could have been there, but you would never know, even though the place is small and cramped. (Everyone at the cafe was protective of him, and it was considered rude to even contemplate approaching him.) But then I’d hear, "Oh, Andy was just in here this morning," or "He’s coming back for lunch."

Hank’s is an interesting stop, and I recommend it if you’re in the area. But there are certain unwritten rules: stand politely in line at the door, don’t keep the outside door open, wait till one of the staff points to an open seat, pay in cash.

The menu is essentially really good diner food with items like eggs over easy; thick, triple-decker sandwiches; and plump, juicy burgers, many with lovely sautéed mushrooms. (After all, Kennett Square, Pa., the mushroom capital of the world, is right around the corner.) There are also platters like calves liver and veal parm.

But, in 2007, Andy also started chowing down at the nearby Brandywine Prime Seafood and Chops when the old, country inn was transformed into a spiffy dining spot. At the restaurant’s grand opening, I heard Andy was there, but it was so crowded I couldn’t maneuver around the room. I ended up being wedged next to an elegant, older woman in a fluffy, white fur hat. How pretty she is, what an interesting face, I thought. It was Helga.

3:42 pm Comment Count Tags: events
January, 15th 2009

Now, this is team spirit

I had the fortune of being invited to judge a chili cook-off at the National Aquarium on Wednesday. Don’t worry. There was no dolphin stew. But while the sharks, eels, and rays were lazily circling the waters, the crew at the Aquarium was chowing down on 12 wonderful chilis and four outstanding winter soups made by staffers. Oh, yes, many were wearing purple for the Ravens at the sixth annual in-house event held every January, though there were a few brave Pittsburgh fans in black.

But chili is a great equalizer so, instead of heated debate about Sunday’s game, there was just heated discussion about the best chili. And it was all for a good cause. Proceeds (staff members paid to sample the chili and other homemade goodies) benefited the Aquarium’s employee assistance program and animal enrichment fund, which builds toys for the animals.

I’ve never seen so many slow cookers percolating at the same time, even one with Green Bay Packers’ logos on it (though the user had a disclaimer on it that is wasn’t hers). With names like Heaven and Hell, Smokin’ Drunkin’ Vegetarian Chili, White Lightning, and Papa Tom’s World Famous Chili, there was some serious eating to do.

The Aquarium announced the winners later in the afternoon. They were: overall and best meat chili: Kenny Johnson (custodial services) for his Titan’s mix; best poultry chili: Cory Bandy (marine mammals) for White Lightning; best vegetarian chili: Ed Furlong (IT) for Bruno’s; best soup: Cortez Lewis (security) for Chicken, Chicken-Bang, Bang (gotta love the name).

Yes, I sampled them all. My favorite? They all were really good, but I did lean toward Papa’s Tom’s spicy concoction and White Lightning. But this weekend, I’ll be making my own steak and black bean version, wearing my Joe Flacco jersey. Go Ravens

January, 8th 2009

Baltimore's newest brasserie

Chef Cyrus Keefer quietly opened his pride and joy this week—Brasserie 10 South in the former Xanadu spot at 10 S. Calvert St. He’s taken over the bottom floor. (A club called Lux, separate from the restaurant, will be on the second level.)

Look for the brasserie’s menu to have classic French and new American dishes like crêpes, fennel-crusted tuna, and a terrine du jour. Offerings will change weekly based on seasonal, local products. "It’s the kind of food I wanted to do," says Cyrus.

The likable chef, who trained at Philadelphia’s Walnut Hill College Restaurant School, brings some serious cooking chops to the area. He worked at the award-winning Espuma and Nage in Rehoboth Beach, Del., before coming to Baltimore to be closer to family. He first landed at Sauté in Canton when it opened early last year but soon left to pursue other culinary endeavors.

He wants the new restaurant to have a friendly vibe, "not be uptight," he says. It’s open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and for dinner Tuesday-Saturday. For information, call 410-528-8994. A website should be up and running soon. And there's free valet parking!

Before I talked to Cyrus on the phone, he wrote me an e-mail saying, "I hope to put myself on the Baltimore map with this one." Good luck, Cyrus.

January, 7th 2009

Our other Top Chef

Don't forget about native Baltimorean Melissa Harrison, who is still hanging on in episode seven of Bravo's "Top Chef," which airs at 10 p.m. tonight.

Melissa—who grew up in Sparks, graduated from Garrison Forest School in 1998, and went to Baltimore International College for her culinary education— moved to Colorado about five years ago because she loves to ski and fell in love with the city of Boulder. But the 28-year-old hasn’t cut her ties here: "I’m a very loyal Baltimorean," she said yesterday in a phone conversation from Colorado. "I go home as much as I can."

When she visits her family here—mom Sharon Lindstrom; "Nana," her 80-year-old grandmother; and various siblings and other relatives (her dad Thomas Harrison died in 1995)—she likes to go to Bluestone in Lutherville, where she worked as a line cook. One of her other favorite restaurants is Charleston in Harbor East.

She can’t talk about the outcome of "Top Chef" (or even if they’ve shot the finale), but she says, "It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done." She laughs about the many blogs dissecting each episode. She’s been called "the blond girl with bangs" (for the record, she’s not wearing bangs anymore) and the chef who flies below the judges’ radar in the challenges and elimination rounds. "It’s not on purpose," she counters cheerfully when asked about the comments. "It happens that way." By the way, she doesn’t look at the blogs: "It’s hard to read what people are saying when they don’t know you."

For now, Melissa is excited about being the sous chef at a new Boulder restaurant called Happy Noodle, scheduled to open in early February. Stay tuned for what happens to our Baltimore girl on "Top Chef."

January, 6th 2009

Anthony Bourdain in town?

There seems to have been some sightings of acerbic, bad-boy chef Anthony Bourdain in Baltimore today. Hmm, what could the star of the Travel Channel’s "No Reservations" be doing in Charm City?

Perhaps it has to do with an item on his Sept. 1 blog about the TV projects he is planning:

"And a Detroit/Buffalo/Baltimore hybrid show which (I hope) will pay low rent homage to Curtis Hansen, Vincent Gallo and John Waters respectively (There will NOT be a Pink Flamingos finale, however)."

But should we be worried about our culinary reputation? After all, this is the man who wrote, "Baltimore sucks. If you haven't been there, it's a fairly quaint excuse for a city," in his tell-all book "Kitchen Confidential."

Uh oh. I’m not feeling so good about his visit.

5:22 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
January, 5th 2009

Happy anniversary, Da Mimmo

Restaurants come and go, and in this economy, we may have to say goodbye to more places than we’d like. So it’s encouraging to know that Da Mimmo has stood the test of time and is celebrating its 25th anniversary with several fun events.

Proprietor Mary Ann Cricchio will kick off the celebration on Jan. 11, starting a noon, with the exact menu and prices from the 1984 menu. Mary Ann promises to wear the original dress she wore on opening day. Now, that’s impressive!

Other events include: Jan.12-16, a three-course meal, $25; Jan. 18, 25 percent of the proceeds from dinner will be donated to the Associated Italian American Charities; and Jan. 21, "Veal Chop" night features the restaurant’s signature dish for $25 (it’s usually $45). Make reservations at 410-727-6876.

January, 2nd 2009

Happy Hour starts now

Forget the JFX traffic for a while. Head to Pazo after work for $5 tapas and cocktails from 5-7 p.m., starting today. Festively called "Pazo Cinco," the happy-hour menu, offered Monday-Friday, includes chef Michael Costa’s Mediterranean-style cuisine and cocktails by sommelier/mixologist Olivia Boru.

Here’s a sampling: croquetas (crispy mashed potatoes with manchego cheese), grilled pork tenderloin pinchos (like a canapé), veal-and-pork empanadas, wood-grilled eggplant dip, and mini pizzas. To wash it all down, there are drinks like kaffir-lime-and-Thai-chili martinis, white-chocolate-and-macadamia-nut martinis, and spearmint mojitos.

Suddenly, the work week never looked so promising.

December, 31st 2008

Never too late to party

If you still don’t have plans for New Year’s Eve, stop by RA Sushi in Harbor East. There’s no cover charge, and no reservations are needed. Plus there will be a guest DJ, extended sushi bar hours, and a sake toast at midnight.

There’s no need to wrap up the party early either. The restaurant (in the Eden building, 1390 Lancaster St.) is staying open till 4 a.m. For more info, call 410-522-3200.

Happy New Year!

December, 30th 2008

Food trends for 2009

Instead of looking back, I prefer to peer into the food future, or, at least, look at what others are forecasting for the upcoming year. These lists are fun whether they pan out or not. Here are some of the predictions.

—No surprise: Organic and local foods will be in the forefront again. But they’ll get even more attention because "green can mean efficiency and cost savings," according to foodchannel.com. And who doesn’t want that in this economy?

—A return to home cooking—again a cost-saving measure, says foodchannel.com. It’s time to dust off the slow cooker, it says.

—When you do go out to eat, it will be for breakfast, says Bon Appetit magazine. Look for affordable seasonal menus with dressed-up pancakes, waffles, and eggs.

—The National Restaurant Association is all over the brunch trend, too. It predicts a leaning toward ethnic-inspired breakfast items like chorizo scrambled eggs, Asian-flavored syrups, and coconut-milk pancakes. It also mentions an increased interest in seafood breakfast items, specifically mentioning crab cakes!

—Desserts focus on the pantry-staple peanut butter, says Bon Appetit. Think peanut-butter and chocolate cheesecake swirl brownies and peanut-butter and jelly shortbread wedges, it says.

—Bite-size, mini desserts will be popular, too, the restaurant association says. Other trends: dessert flights, gelato/sorbet, drinkable desserts, and savory desserts.

—New Southern cuisine will shine. Classic country cooking gets gussied up with such ingredients as cornbread croutons and crispy country ham in beet salad and brioche-breaded fish, says Bon Appetit.

—New cuts of meat will land on our tables, like Denver steak and pork flat iron, says the restaurant association. (I found some great suggestions for one new darling, pork petite tender.)

So we’re in for some great eating in the year to come. I’ll share more trends soon like one for nutrient-rich superfruits. Goji berries, anyone? How about mangosteens?

3:40 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
December, 24th 2008

A holiday adventure—or not

A world traveler/gourmand convinced a friend of mine that Shula’s is the best steakhouse in town. Now, there’s a challenge a food editor can’t ignore. So I dutifully agreed to meet my friend last night at the restaurant, which is in the Sheraton City Center Hotel on West Fayette St. I made reservations and spoke to a polite woman who took my information. The visit went downhill from there.

I should have known when I couldn’t find the hotel’s garage that the evening was not getting off to a great start. At this point, I should warn you not to go there in the next couple of days. I’ll tell you why in a minute.

I circled the downtown blocks in frustrating rush-hour traffic and finally found the garage entrance on Baltimore Street. Miraculously, my friend pulled into the underground parking right behind me. It’s not the most welcoming place. Eerily empty with low ceilings and pipes, I expected to see Scrooge’s ghosts while trying to find the door to the hotel lobby.

After being innocently misdirected by a staff member to the 11th floor, we backtracked to the lobby and found the swanky steakhouse, which is next to Shula’s 2 (its sports-bar counterpart). The casual spot was lively and bright. So you can imagine my surprise when we realized the upscale restaurant next door was dark and shuttered. What? On Shula’s behalf, a pleasant manager explained that the main restaurant is closed till Tuesday. Hotel occupancy is low, another employee explained. OK, I just wish someone had told me before I made the trip there.

But that isn’t the end of the story. After getting our parking tickets validated (thank you, Andrew), we headed back to the garage, only to find that there was no attendant on duty and you needed coin tokens to exit. We were trapped. We called a mysterious person on a garage phone, explaining our dilemma. The man who later came to our rescue was skeptical of our validated tickets (Hey, we’re talking free parking versus $10!). He later relented and parted with some tokens so we could escape. I’ll go back to the restaurant—but next time, I think I’ll take a cab.

Of course, by now, we were starving. So where’d we end up? We opted for Pazo in the Harbor East-Fells Point area. I’ve never been so glad to see complimentary valet parking in my life. There is a Santa Claus.

11:53 am Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
December, 19th 2008

Goodbye, Brasserie Tatin

I just saw on Elizabeth Large’s dining blog that the current owners of Brasserie Tatin sold the restaurant to someone from the now-closed Boccaccio, who plans to open an Italian restaurant there. Tatin’s last day is Tuesday (Dec. 23).

If you can, try and visit the restaurant before it closes. I was there a few weeks ago and had a lovely meal. I was planning to run a review soon. Here’s what I wrote about my visit:

A contemporary French restaurant in the midst of vintage apartment buildings in the Homewood area is a visual surprise when you enter the front door, tucked inside the Broadview apartments. Tiny lights cascade down a wall in the sophisticated bar, black tabletops glisten in the dining room, and sleek banquettes in modern-day tangerine and turquoise hues add poufs of color. We had to agree with one diner who exclaimed, "I love these sparkly tables. I feel like I’m on Broadway." Indeed, the staff and kitchen do everything they can to put on a worthwhile show. Appetizers like succulent frog legs in garlic aioli and rich slabs of country pâté arrive quickly. Entrées live up to expectations, too—from a classic roasted chicken with marvelously crackly skin to humongous diver scallops in a fresh St. Jacques interpretation with rum and vanilla. And you must have dessert before bidding au revoir. How can you not succumb to tarte tatin, a wedge of caramelized, tender apples with crème fraîche and a tart green-apple sorbet?

Adieu, Tatin.

December, 17th 2008

A romantic holiday story

I’m sure Miss Irene (of the namesake restaurant in Fells Point) is smiling right now. Her granddaughter, Emily Gleason, and boyfriend of two years, Andrew Reymer, have added their own chapter to the family’s long history at the Thames Street location.

But, first, a little background: Miss Irene and her husband Mr. Mike (as they were called by locals) Glyphis emigrated from Greece, landing first in Ohio and then Baltimore, living on The Alameda. Mr. Mike ran the downtown family bar, which was called The River Drive Inn. When he became too ill to work, Miss Irene, a no-nonsense, compassionate woman who spoke broken English, stepped in. The couple moved to an apartment on top of the bar (now a dining room), and the matriarch took over the operation. "It kept her going," Emily says. "She was an amazing woman."

Emily tells stories of her grandmother having Thanksgiving feasts in the bar for neighbors who had nowhere else to go and hosting her own birthday bashes on New Year’s Day. Emily now has the old bar jukebox in her home as a keepsake.

Mr. Mike died in the ’70s. Miss Irene passed in 1995. By that time, bar regulars had come to calling the place Miss Irene’s. The name was sealed when a storm in the ’90s ripped apart the River Drive sign and was replaced by one that said Miss Irene’s. When Emily’s uncle eventually sold the restaurant, the new owners asked the family if they could keep the name.

So Miss Irene’s lives on—this time transformed into a spiffy, upscale bistro instead of the rough-around-the-edges tavern it was. New memories are waiting to happen.

Flash forward to a few weeks ago. Emily, who spent much of her childhood and teen years at her grandparents’ apartment, was taking a sentimental tour of the new restaurant with Andrew. The couple had been running errands all day and had just come from Home Depot. Emily had no idea what Andrew had planned. But just before they were getting ready to leave, Andrew dropped to one knee and asked her to marry him. "He knew how much my grandparents meant to me," says Emily, touched by his thoughtfulness. And, oh, she said yes.

No wedding date is planned, perhaps next fall. But the couple is already thinking about using Miss Irene’s for their rehearsal dinner. Miss Irene and Mr. Mike will be watching, I’m sure.

12:36 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
December, 16th 2008

From Top Chef to Sotto Sopra

I just finished talking to Jill Snyder, former cheftestant on the Bravo reality show Top Chef. She was in the kitchen at Sotto Sopra, where she’s working with friend and executive chef Bill Crouse. "I hadn’t done Italian food before," she explains.

I was wondering what happened to Jill. Not long after she was told to pack up her knives in episode two of the TV show, she left Red Maple, where she had been working as the chef. For now, she’s planning to say in Baltimore.

She hasn’t been idle. Besides helping out at Sotto Sopra, she’s really excited about being one of the honorary co-chairs at the 18th annual Chocolate Affair, which benefits Health Care for the Homeless. You’ll find her amid the chocolate decadence on Feb. 5 at the M&T Bank Stadium. She’s also talking to Fox News about a possible morning cooking segment.

Jill is still under contract with Top Chef, so she really can’t say a lot about the show. But she did say the finale hasn’t been shot yet. She also says she has stayed friends with everyone on the show and keeps in touch with them by e-mail. I like her attitude. "It was just a show," she says. "I just want to keep learning and cooking and one day open a restaurant." Yeah, who needs Top Chef.

1:18 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs
December, 12th 2008

Baltimore Sandwich Challenge Tour

I’m impressed, really impressed. The 29 best sandwiches in our October food issue caught the attention of two food-addicted bloggers, Kate and Nicole, who are going to sample them all. You go, girls! Here’s what they say on their blog:

"After reading a recent article in Baltimore Magazine about the best sandwiches in Baltimore, we were both so enticed that we decided to try them all. Every other Friday (payday) we will try a new sandwich. To help maintain our girlish figures, we decided it would be best to split the sandwiches. Here, on this blog, you will follow us through our journey and find out if these truly are the best sandwiches in Baltimore."

Kate and Nicole, we await your judgments. (And welcome to my world of constant exercise and fat jeans.) The women are rating the sandwiches on a one-to-five star basis with five being the best. Each woman weighs in, so to speak, on the merits of each one.

Here’s what they’ve found so far:

Petit Louis, croque monsieur. Both gave it five stars.
On the Hill Cafe & Market, The McMechen. Both, three stars.
Ceriello Fine Italian Foods, Roma. Both, four stars.
Miss Shirley’s, bistro beef. Kate gave it four stars, although she did note that she would have added a half star if they did that; Nicole, five stars.

What do you think of their ratings to date?

12 issues for $18!