January, 14th 2010

A peek inside Milan

milan1.jpgBaltimore’s newest restaurant, Milan, opens tomorrow (Jan. 15). I got an insider’s look this morning along with Jess Blumberg, who writes the magazine’s On the Town blog. (Jess will be posting about the restaurant’s bar scene soon.)

First of all, the massive, multilevel space—1000 Eastern Ave. on the edge of Harbor East and Little Italy—is stunning. The lounge level plays off a white, crimson, and espresso color scheme.

Bright white couches and tables overlook a gray marble fireplace highlighted by a fabric rose wall on top. The rose theme is picked up in cushions on the couches. The bar also goes glam with a red sparkly top and comfy white stools with backs.

As Hilary Keil, the restaurant’s assistant general manager, told us, "We wanted to create a space like no other and have guests step into Milan and step into a different world."

Local designer Meghan Hoffmann gets kudos for creating the glizy vibe. Tomorrow night, the razzle-dazzle scene will ratchet up a notch when the women servers wear glittery masks and the guys don bandit masks to celebrate opening night.

To the rear of the lounge is a sleek sushi bar featuring the restaurant’s sushi-Italiano creations, an interesting twist, with offerings like salmon with lemon caper aioli and yellowfin tuna with red-pepper oil and sea salt.

But you have to check out the upstairs fine-dining area with its giant palladian windows, white-and-silver overtones, and VIP booths with silver beads and gauzy curtains. (There are also VIP rooms with couches and flat screen TVs for rent.)

The Italian-Mediterranean fusion menu takes its cues from executive chef Stephen Carey, a Johnson and Wales culinary grad and Maryland native. Look for entrees like linguine with shrimp and lobster in a brandied garlic cream sauce ($26) and a veal porterhouse with wild mushroom risotto cakes ($30). There are appetizers, antipasti, bruschettas, flatbreads, and salads, too.

Of course, there’s a pastry chef, whipping up confections like ricotta cheesecake, tiramisu, and crème brûlée. The restaurant opens at 5 p.m. (Its website is under construction.)

It’s going to look magical at night with hundreds of votives flickering in the dark. The restaurant expects to go through 250 candles a night, 300 on weekends!

"Here at Milan, we’re all about the experience," Hilary said. Visually, we agree.

Photo: Courtesy of bmoremedia.com

January, 13th 2010

Zeke’s Coffee expands

Zeke’s is moving its retail operation into the old Grind-On spot (4607 Harford Rd.) in Lauraville in early February. Ryan Schmidt, general manager of production at Zeke’s, said the new place will be a "coffee lab" as opposed to a coffee shop.

Customers will be able to buy beans and sample coffee. For instance, organic Sumatra will be available on a regular basis. But the shop will also brew other kinds of coffee for people to taste. It won’t be a place for people to hang out and have muffins, Ryan said.

Eventually, Zeke’s hopes to have tastings there. Hours haven’t been decided yet.

Mark Tough, executive director of the Neighborhoods of Greater Lauraville Inc., is already a Zeke’s fan. He was on hand Sunday for the coffee company’s annual kopi luwak tasting.

"We're pretty thrilled that Zeke's is expanding their footprint here," Mark said in an email about the expansion. "And we expect more good news [in the Hamilton-Lauraville area] throughout the remainder of the year."

11:39 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
January, 12th 2010

Chef's tables

Volt restaurant in Frederick has booked its popular Table 21 with 21 courses through 2010! If you’d like to sample the dishes prepared by Top Chef finalist Bryan Voltaggio in his kitchen, reservations are now being taken for 2011. Talk about the power of TV.

But we’ve found several chef’s tables closer to home. Baltimore magazine contributing writer Martha Thomas has researched some fine options. We’ll have a story in our March Best Restaurants issue. In case we missed any, please let us know your favorite.

2:42 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
January, 7th 2010

More pizza in Harbor East

Until recently, there was no place to get pizza in Harbor East. Then, Bagby Pizza Co. opened in the fall. Now, it looks like the upscale neighborhood is getting two more pizza places.

When I walked by the now-closed Elevation Burger (655 Aliceanna St.), the sign out front notes that All American Deli Delicatessen and Pizzeria will open Feb. 15. I knew it was going to be a deli. The "pizzeria" is a new twist.

I also confirmed this week that another pizza shop will open in the area in the near future. The owner (who has Little Italy connections) asked me not to divulge the details until he crosses the "T"s and dots the "I"s on the lease, which should be next week. I’ll be able to give you more info soon.

January, 6th 2010

Happy 30th to Mt. Washington Tavern

To celebrate, Mt. Washington Tavern is offering a special dinner option now through Jan. 21. And it’s quite the deal.

The offer is $30 for two (yes, two people!) and includes a shared appetizer, two entrees, and two glasses of wine. The promotion is good Sundays-Thursdays in the dining room areas only.

The menu includes appetizers like jumbo lump crab dip and bacon-wrapped sea scallops and entrees like prime rib and salmon filet. Sounds like a great way for diners to commemorate the restaurant’s three decades in business.

11:57 am Comment Count Tags: events, restaurants
January, 4th 2010

Drink rare coffee

Zeke’s Coffee is hosting its third annual kopi luwak tasting on the hour from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Jan. 10 at its Lauraville store. This is a coffee unlike any other you’ve probably had.

The Asian palm civet, or luwak, is a small weasel-like mammal found on the islands of Sumatra, Java, and Sulawesi, according to a press release. It eats the native coffee (kopi) berries whole and excretes the pit, or coffee bean. The feces is harvested, washed (that’s an important part. I'd say), and sold for upward of $600 per pound because it’s so rare.

On Sunday, you can sample kopi luwak at Zeke’s for $10 a cup. The tasting event is usually a sellout, but tickets are available now. See you there.

January, 4th 2010

Make reservations now

Baltimore Winter Restaurant Week is a must-do in the doldrums of winter. This year, it’s Jan. 22-Feb. 7.

The key, though, is to make reservations at your favorite place now before the restaurant is booked. This time, a three-course dinner is $35.10; a three-course lunch, $20.10. Parking specials are $3.

There are more than 90 restaurants on the list, including some new ones like Tapas Adela, Alizée, and Maisy’s. With so many choices, please share favorite restaurants you’ve visited in the past during restaurant week.

December, 31st 2009

Year of the anti-foodie

The coming year’s focus will be on the food, not the sexy chef or competitive cook on TV who is using food just as a background, predicts Phil Lempert on supermarketguru.com. There will be a move back to substance over glitz, he asserts.

When someone says there will be "death to the foodie—and the rise of the anti-foodie," I have to pay attention. Lempert claims we’re tired of the pretty face and hunky bod on TV who’s gushing about the perfect truffle or an over-priced wine.

It’s time for food to be the star, he says. I agree food should be the star, but I don’t think I can give up watching Top Chef, Bobby Flay, or Giada. What do you think of Lempert’s New Year’s prediction?

December, 30th 2009

Last meal at Fells Point DuClaw

The DuClaw Brewing Company restaurant in Fells Point was surprisingly busy for a holiday week. But the servers put on a happy face, and if you didn’t know that the restaurant was closing today (Dec. 30), none would be the wiser.

I skipped a beer tribute and had a Cuban sandwich with the Misfit house-made chips and an iced tea. It was an adequate lunch, but nothing I will miss.

But, then, DuClaw was never known for its food. It offered acceptable pub grub but was mostly known as a great place to meet up with friends for drinks, especially when the weather was nice.

My cheerful waitress Mandy said the staff was told on Monday that DuClaw was closing, but was given no reason. She has two other jobs, she said, so she’s okay. But "It is sad," she said, looking around at her co-workers.

Back in the office, I talked to David Benfield, president of DuClaw, who emphasized that the Fells Point location is the only store that is closing. It was a financial decision.

Benfield said the landlord, Bond St. Wharf LLC, offered DuClaw a buyout of its lease. Since the brewing company was coming on to five years in that location, it accepted the offer.

He said the company took into consideration an expected increase in real-estate taxes and fees and the fact the restaurant was located on the outskirts of Fells Point and not quite in Harbor East. "The store was not a great performer," he said. "We were missing the critical mass."

For now, DuClaw is focusing on its other locations (a soon-to-open franchise will be at BWI) and its bottle launch in liquor stores in Maryland, DC, and soon Virginia and Pennsylvania.

Still, I'm going to miss the warm breezes, water view, outdoor patio, and its excellent ales in Fells Point.

December, 30th 2009

Reports of Fells Point DuClaw closing

According to several tweets, the Fells Point DuClaw Brewing Company restaurant is closing today.

When I called, the staff referred me to its corporate office. But the person at corporate who can address the subject is out of the office. I left a message.

In the meantime, I’ll stroll down to the restaurant and see if I can find out what’s up.

December, 30th 2009

New Jasmine Asian Bistro

The Quarry Lake restaurant and sushi bar has opened another location in Timonium, next to the new Giant on York Road. Our customers asked for it, said manager John Phang.

What’s really cool is that the new Jasmine, which opened Dec. 14, has two tatami rooms (traditional Japanese dining rooms), where diners remove their shoes and sit on floor cushions, sliding their feet under a low table. That should add to the experience.

Jasmine was originally located on York Road in Towson until owner Andy Chan sold that spot, eventually ending up in Quarry Lake. The restaurant might expand again if the right setting can be found, Phang said.

Besides sushi, the menu features Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai cuisines. When I ate at the Quarry Lake storefront about a year ago, I praised the crispy roast duck with Thai spicy and sour sauce, though I noted it wasn’t as "hot" flavor-wise as I would have liked.

The service that night was frantic because of the crowd. I can only imagine that the new restaurant will also draw a number of suburban diners, who should be able to count on pretty, large-portion plates and the freshest of sushi.

The website hasn’t added the new location. It’s at 2141 York Rd., (adjacent to the fairgrounds), Timonium. Phone: 410-252-5672.

December, 29th 2009

3 area restaurants make the list

Washingtonian names its "100 Very Best Restaurants" in its January issue, and I was happy to see three that we can claim as ours in the rankings: Volt in Frederick, Sushi Sono in Columbia, and Hell Point Seafood in Annapolis.

It’s great that Volt got the No. 29 spot, but I’m not sure that I agree with the magazine that it’s "arguably Maryland’s best restaurant." What do you think? I had a nice meal there, but it wasn’t flawless. Still, kudos to chef/co-owner Bryan Voltaggio for his culinary vision.

The magazine placed Sushi Sono at No. 40, saying it was the "toughest reservation in Columbia." Hell Point Seafood ranked at No. 84 with the comment that "the restaurant has found its groove."

I’m working on our own best restaurants issue for March, and I know how tough it is to settle on a numeric order. But maybe that’s the point. Lists create discussion and reflection.

I can give you one hint about this year’s rankings in Baltimore magazine. They’ll be different than last year’s.

2:57 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
December, 28th 2009

Mad Men food

jon-hamm.jpgFood from the 1960s is back, thanks in large part to AMC’s award-winning show Mad Men—and is predicted to be one of the top food trends of 2010. Don Draper would be so proud.

I don’t think these iconic brands have ever gone away, but, according to one pundit, they’ll be nutritionally improved and have more flavor. That’s probably a good thing.

The trend seems to tie into our back-to-basics economy, though it also has to do with the 76 million baby boomers who grew up during that time, says Phil Lempert, who tracks consumer interests on supermarketguru.com. He cites Eight-O-Clock Coffee as an example of a product becoming hip again.

Too bad prices won’t roll back, too. In the ’60s, we paid 89 cents for six cans of Campbell’s soup, 25 cents for a box of Cheerios, 67 cents for a pound of Land O’Lakes butter, and 49 cents for a Swanson chicken TV dinner. I guess the good ol' days are never the same.

Photo courtesy of AMCTV

3:53 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
December, 22nd 2009

Chili for the holidays

Merry recipe to you. As the days tick down to Christmas and then New Year’s, dinners seem to be made on the fly. And you can only eat so much delivery pizza. Here’s an easy slow-cooker recipe that can be thrown together quickly in the morning, providing a hearty meal when everyone is clamoring for dinner. It's one of my favorite comfort foods. Enjoy!

Steak and Black Bean Chili

2 pounds beef cubes for stew
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 large onion (for 1 cup chopped)
1 large green pepper (for 1 ½ cups chopped)
2 cans (15 ounces each) black beans
2 cans (14 ½ ounces each) chili-style chopped tomatoes
1 teaspoon sugar
1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
Salt and pepper to taste
Sour cream, optional garnish
Shredded cheddar cheese, optional garnish

Cut beef into 1-inch cubes. Place beef cubes in a slow cooker and turn it on the low setting. Sprinkle the chili powder, garlic powder, and cumin over the meat.

Peel and chop the onion, adding it to the slow cooker as you chop. Seed and chop the green pepper, adding it to the cooker as you chop.

Drain and rinse the beans and add them to the cooker. Add the tomatoes and sugar. Cover and cook on low for 8-10 hours.

Uncover and stir in the tomato paste. Season with salt and pepper, and stir well. Serve, garnishing with sour cream and cheese if desired. Makes 8 servings.

—From "Desperation Dinners," a syndicated newspaper column by Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross

6:25 pm Comment Count Tags: recipes
December, 21st 2009

And the answer is

If you made chocolate chip cookies with half the chips called for in the recipe, how many calories would you save per cookie?

The answer is 22 calories.

In full disclosure, I only got five answers correct out of 12 in the holiday food test. Not good!

6:15 pm Comment Count Tags: holidays