October, 13th 2011

Local blogger goes to culinary school

elizabeth laseterHuffington Post reports today on a week in the life of a new culinary-school student, who just happens to be Elizabeth Laseter of The Baltimore Food Rag. You’ll smile and grimace when you read her adventures.

Elizabeth, who wants to be a food journalist, decided to go to L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, after graduating from Hopkins with a degree in writing and art history. She’s a busy woman. She also writes The D.C. Food Rag, too.

I had an opportunity to work with Elizabeth when she was an intern at Baltimore magazine. She wrote several posts for this blog while here in summer 2010. I’m pretty sure I’ll be working for her someday.

Photo of Elizabeth, courtesy of her Baltimore blog

11:15 am Comment Count Tags: bloggers
October, 12th 2011

From Pazza Luna to The Mallet

mallet restaurantChef Davide Rossi, who prepared upscale Italian dishes at Pazza Luna in Locust Point, is the consulting chef at the new The Mallet Restaurant & Crabhouse in Fallston. It seems an odd pairing.

Chef Rossi, who hails from Milan, Italy, dropped out of sight after Pazza Luna, a popular trattoria, closed suddenly last May. It had been getting positive reviews from neighbors, visitors, and the media. No word on its fate. The old phone number is not in service, though its website is up and running. Anyone know anything?

The menu at The Mallet—a location that has housed various restaurants with different names over the years—offers standard crab-shack fare (that's not a bad thing) like steamed shrimp, mussels, crab cakes, and a few steaks thrown in for meat eaters. There is also a small pasta section featuring linguine with clams, chicken Alfredo, frutti di mare, and shrimp scampi. With Rossi’s imprint, I’m sure they’re delicious.

I’m glad the chef landed somewhere locally. But I just feel like there’s more to this story.

October, 11th 2011

Under the Southern influence

sean brockI just ate my way through Charleston, SC, and was able to go to one of America’s hottest restaurants, Husk, with a menu by the media’s newest chef darling, Sean Brock, pictured. I met him, too. Nice guy, all about local Southern food.

I was in Charleston for the annual Association of Food Journalists conference and pretty much spent four days eating at some of the best restaurants the city has to offer. Even local chefs are wowed by Brock. Before I went, I talked to Chris “Squints” Becker, who will be opening TEN TEN and Fleet Street Kitchen soon with co-chef Mark Davis. He recommended I visit Brock’s other restaurant, McCrady’s, a swankier version of Husk.

To give you an idea of what Brock is doing in his kitchens, here’s my lunch menu at Husk:

fried green husk tomatoesSnacks for the table: fried green tomatoes with pimento and country ham, pictured, rattlesnake beans with guanciale vinaigrette, smoky chicken wings with peach BBQ and benne, BBQ glazed TROUT ribs (yes, trout the fish, an amazing dish), and, a crowd pleaser, Southern fried chicken skins with hot sauce and honey.

There was more.

Lunch: shrimp and grits, cornmeal-dusted catfish with cornbread purée, chicken (was the cover photo of a recent Bon Appetit magazine, and, drum roll, the most wonderful cheeseburger you may ever have. Chef Brock puts ground bacon into the beef and cooks the patties in a wood-burning oven. Only American cheese is allowed on top.

Also at the lunch was Matt Lee, back of his head pictured in the photo with the chef. He and his brother, Ted, are James Beard Award-winning cookbook authors. They were at the Baltimore Book Festival in 2010.

No dessert was offered after lunch. I didn’t need it. I was only hours away from a Madeira tasting at McCrady’s and a multi-course dinner and seven-layer coconut cake at the four-star Peninsula Grill in Charleston.

Great food. But there’s no place like home.

Photos by me

 

 

 

 

10:46 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, restaurants
October, 3rd 2011

In Love with Brisket

brisket bookStephanie “Stevie” Pierson, who grew up in Mt. Washington and Bolton Hill, has written The Brisket Book: A Love Story with Recipes, dedicated to the ultimate braised comfort food.

There’s another Baltimore tie, too. The book includes a recipe for Beef Brisket with Tangy Peaches by chef/owner John Shields of Gertrude’s, who will be hosting a book launch and dinner at the restaurant on Oct. 20 for Stevie.

The event is open to the public, and reservations are recommended. There will be a special brisket dinner offered in addition to the regular menu. Copies of the brisket book will be available for purchase, and Stevie will be happy to sign them.

When I asked Stevie, “Why brisket?” she responded via e-mail. “I decided to write a book about brisket when I realized how passionate I was about brisket,” she said. “I realized that although brisket is in just about every cookbook, it didn't have its own cookbook. And I thought, well, that is just wrong for brisket to get so little respect and attention.”

She also added that people were enthusiastic when she was searching for recipes: “They would inevitably respond, ‘Do I have a brisket recipe?! I have the best brisket recipe ever!’”

In addition to the recipes—from the likes of chef Daniel Boulud, Joan Nathan, pit masters, and home cooks—the book features great cooking advice, chef interviews, and butcher tips. There are also chapters on side dishes and what to drink with your meal, including a recipe for a Clove’n Hoof Cocktail that sounds wicked.

The Brisket Book (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $29.99) will be released tomorrow (Oct. 4). Stevie has also written other books, including Vegetables Rock! I’m sure they’re good, but I’m glad she loves brisket as much as I do.

 

 

 

September, 30th 2011

Win a Free Cookbook/Meet the Author

cook like a rock starIt’s simple. Cook Like a Rock Star by Anne Burrell could be yours. It’s being released Oct. 4 and includes recipes plus culinary tips and secrets from Anne, a classically trained chef and Food Network personality.

We have three copies to give away. Here’s the deal: Visit our Facebook page and answer three questions about our October pizza story throughout the day. If you are the first to answer a question correctly, the book is heading your way.

You can also meet Anne in person at Williams-Sonoma Annapolis Mall at 5:30 p.m. Oct. 6. She’ll be signing copies of her new cookbook, which she wrote with food writer Suzanne Lenzer.

Tickets are required. Anne will only be signing books purchased at Williams-Sonoma that day.

Anne will also be appearing at Wegmans in Hunt Valley at noon on Oct. 7 to sign cookbooks. Info at the market’s website.

I had a chance to preview a copy of Cook Like a Rock Star (Clarkson Potter, $27.99). I have dozens of cookbooks at home. I use them for cooking. I read them like novels. So I feel comfortable saying this book is a nice addition to a home collection.

Anne makes cooking fun, whether you’re a novice or a pro. For instance, in her “A Few Words on Fancy Words,” she compiles an easy-to-understand glossary. E.g., “crud”: the delicious brown bits on the bottom of the pan that help develop deep, rich, meaty flavors, and “big fat finishing oil”: your big-money extra virgin olive oil.

And she’s definitely a proponent of mis en place: getting all your prep work done BEFORE you start cooking.

She gets a big shout out from chef Mario Batali in the book’s foreword. She and Mario have cooked together. Perhaps, you’ve seen them on a little show called Iron Chef America. Mario writes in the book, “Cook Like a Rock Star is tasty happiness.”

The cookbook is divided into chapters on Piccolini (nibbles), Firsts (appetizers), Pasta, Seconds, Sides, and Desserts. Anne offers encouraging words before each recipe and has a sound bite at the end of each one, like “super-cinchy,” “molto sexy,” and “Thanks, Mom!”

Some of the recipes that caught my eye: Hard Polenta Cakes with Taleggio (love this cheese) & Cherry Tomatoes, Pumpkin Soup with Allspice Whipped Cream & Fried Leeks, Killer Mac & Cheese with Bacon (yum), and Hazelnut Cake with Nutella Mousse.

Besides writing a cookbook, Anne also is the host of Food Network’s Secrets of a Restaurant Chef and co-host of Worst Cooks in America. But she’s more than a cute TV face. She’s got cooking creds. She graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and has worked at top restaurants in New York.

So why “Rock Star” in the title? She’s not talking about Mick Jagger or David Lee Roth wearing aprons. As Anne says in her book, “Remember, YOU are the chef of your own kitchen! Way to go, rock star!”

 

September, 28th 2011

The Manliest Restaurants

salt's cureNo, Baltimore didn’t make the list. But a former Baltimorean did. Men’s Health magazine recently named nine regional restaurants as “The Nation’s Manliest.” A finalist will be announced in its December issue.

Primanti Bros. in Pittsburgh won for the Mid-Atlantic area. What would your pick have been in Baltimore? But I digress. We do have a local connection.

The winner of the Los Angeles region is Salt’s Cure, co-owned by Dulaney High School grad Chris Phelps. When Chris was in Baltimore, he trained under Mark Henry at The Oregon Grille and was a sous chef at the now closed Ixia.

His proud mom, Kathy Alexander, who lives in Harbor East, shared the good news. Salt’s Cure, located in West Hollywood, has been receiving great reviews from the local and national press. It’s been billed as an American restaurant/butcher shop focusing on ingredients grown and raised in California. Maybe Chris should open an East Coast branch.

5:19 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
September, 28th 2011

A Gino Marchetti meet and greet

gino marchettiPro football great and former Baltimore Colts player Gino Marchetti will be signing autographs and memorabilia at Gino's Burgers and Chicken in Towson from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m. on Sunday, Oct. 9.

When the franchise opened in August, Gino was unable to attend the ribbon-cutting since he had been hospitalized earlier for pneumonia. I'm glad he's better and is able to be part of the restaurant's "Fan Appreciation Day."

After all, Gino's is named after him. He was one of the founders of the popular Baltimore eatery that closed in the early '90s. This first franchise in the Baltimore area features burgers, chicken sandwiches, fries, onion rings, real ice-cream shakes, and salads. And, yes, the Gino Giant!

More Gino's locations are planned in Maryland and other states. 

Photo of Gino Marchetti at his induction into the Pro Football Hall of Fame 


September, 26th 2011

Mondays at Corner BYOB

corner byobNo corkage fee on Mondays for one thing! The Hampden restaurant is also offering a three-course, prix-fixe dinner menu for $25 to "those who despise cooking on Mondays, to those who can't find any restaurant open, to those 'in the biz,' who are scheduled off after a busy weekend," according to an e-mail by Corner BYOB owner Cecille Fenix.

The menu, prepared by chefs Bernard Dehaene and Zeke 'Paulus" Altenbernd, includes appetizers like fried mussels and bacon potato soup, entrees like pork loin and grilled salmon, and desserts like profiterole and a three cheese-plate.

It's BYOB, so the choice of wine is up to you. 

September, 23rd 2011

Fun Fall Food Events

Update: VOLT benefit. Coming up: The Farmer and the Chef, Fresh Thoughts dinner at the Aquarium, and Ryleigh's Oyster Fest. Here are the details.

Monday (Sept. 26): "The Farmer and the Chef." Baltimore's top chefs and farmers will partner to create recipes using local foods. The dishes will be judged by a panel of celebrity judges. Guests will also be able to savor the fare. Tickets, $75 inclusive. Presented by the American Institute of Wine & Food to benefit Days of Taste, a program that teaches children about food and its origins. 6 p.m. at the Maryland Science Center.

Tuesday (Sept. 27): "Fresh Thoughts." The National Aquarium's sustainable seafood dining series continues with a cooking demonstration by chef Galen Sampson of The Dogwood with a focus on oysters. Guests will also enjoy wine and local artisan cheese. Tickets, $89. 6:30 p.m. at the National Aquarium.

Tuesday (Sept. 27): Benefit Dinner. Former Top Chef contestant Bryan Voltaggio of VOLT restaurant and some of the country's top chefs will create a multi-course menu paired with wines to benefit Share Our Strength's efforts to end childhood hunger. Guest chefs include Charlie Palmer, Cathal Armstrong, our own Spike Gjerde, and Matt Hill. Tickets, $500 for dinner, $125 for the reception, other options. 6 p.m. at VOLT in Frederick. 

Oct. 6-9: Ryleigh's Oyster's fifth annual Oyster Fest. The events benefit the Chesapeake Bay Foundation and Maryland's Oyster Recovery Partnership.

Oct. 6: "The Moet Oyster Ball." The fundraiser features Champagne, vodka cocktails, beer, seafood, and oysters. Tickets, $60. 7 p.m. at Ryleigh's Oyster.

Oct. 8: "Baltimore Oyster Shucking Championship." Oyster shuckers will compete for a $500 cash prize at this event that's opened to the public. Just-shucked oysters and wine will be shared with guests. Donation, $10. 5 p.m. inside and outside Ryleigh's Oyster.

Oct. 9. "Bull & Oyster Roast." A block party on East Cross Street with drink and food specials, including pit beef, shrimp, steamed and raw oysters, and more, and a money wheel to benefit the above-mentioned charities.

Photo by Tina Phillips/FreeDigitalPhotos.net 

12:57 pm Comment Count Tags: events
September, 21st 2011

Dining Out for Life

dining out logoWhere are you eating out tomorrow? Dozens of Baltimore area restaurants are participating in Moveable Feast's annual Dining Out for Life, which raises money to feed those with HIV/AIDS and other life-challenging conditions like breast cancer.

While most restaurants are donating 20 percent of their sales to the cause—a wonderful thing—the following places are giving 50 percent: Alonso's, The Brewer's Art, Clementine, Gertrude's at the BMA, Loco Hombre, Miguel's Cocina y Cantina, and Woodberry Kitchen.

Check out the complete list. Some are serving lunch, too. No matter where you go, you'll be helping a worthwhile organization. 

September, 21st 2011

Baltimore chef on a new TV show

Baltimore Burger BarCongratulations, Anisha Jagtap. The chef/owner of Baltimore Burger Bar in Hampden is a contestant on Food Network's "Sweet Genius," which premieres tomorrow (Sept. 22) at 10 p.m.

Before she transitioned to making gourmet burgers, Anisha was turning out delicious cakes, cookies, and other treats at Puffs & Pastries in the same location on The Avenue. When I asked her earlier this summer, why the switch? She explained that she trained as a chef and wanted to take her skills in another direction.

Anisha started out her career in a much different field. She was studying bio-medical engineering at Hopkins but then left to pursue her interest in cooking. That background should come in handy in the science of baking.

Another Marylander is also competing on the show: Paula Shoyer, a pastry chef and owner of Paula's Parisian Pastries Cooking School in Chevy Chase.

Each chef will be given three pastry challenges with surprise ingredients. Ron Ben-Israel, who owns an eponymous fancy cake shop in NYC, is the judge. He will determine who will win the $10,000 cash prize. 

Photo of Baltimore Burger Bar

2:09 pm Comment Count Tags: chefs, TV
September, 21st 2011

The latest on the Hollywood Diner

hollywood dinerUPDATE: No takers yet for Hollywood Diner. With all the news about the movie "Diner" being made into a Broadway show, I wondered what was going on at Baltimore's Hollywood Diner, which was used in Barry Levinson's 1982 acclaimed film.

Sadly, the cafe part of the diner will be closing this week, said Cheryl Townsend, owner of Red Springs Cafe and Catering, which is running the food operation. But it will be open from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. through Friday if you want to get a taste of Cheryl's Southern soul food in the classic diner.

"We're not getting the business," she said. "We're competing with the food trucks."

Cheryl will still be continuing her catering business and perhaps relocating elsewhere, she said.

The diner, at 400 E. Saratoga St., is owned by the city and has been a vocational training ground for students through the Chesapeake Center for Youth Development.

Ivan Leshinsky, executive director of CCYD, said the organization is actively looking for another operator or partner to run Hollywood Diner. Until then, the training program is on hold.

“We’ve used the building for 20 years,” he said. “The biggest challenge is to make the diner a profitable restaurant.”

He said the structure and restaurant equipment need a major overhaul. "It will take a sizeable investment," on the part of the next proprietor, he said.

Hopefully, this isn’t Hollywood Diner’s final scene.

Photo courtesy of welcometobaltimorehon.com

9:54 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
September, 20th 2011

Dine Out for No Kid Hungry

chazz signSeveral local restaurants are participating in Share Our Strength's Dine Out for No Kid Hungry this week, which continues through Saturday. Chazz: A Bronx Original and Aldo's are two of the restaurants.

They will be donating five percent of their sales to help end childhood hunger in America. Share Our Strength hopes to achieve this goal by 2015, according to its website.

For a complete list of participating restaurants—which also includes Clementine in Hamilton—check SOS's website. 

September, 20th 2011

Lineup of Food/Drink Authors

baltimore book festivalThe Food for Thought Stage at the Baltimore Book Festival will be cookin' with some great visiting authors and local chefs this weekend, Sept. 23-25. I think I'm just going to camp out there the whole time. Here's the schedule:

Friday

Noon-2 p.m. Chefs from Sascha's 527, McCormick & Schmick's, and Cazbar demonstrate their signature dishes.

5 p.m.: James Waller is a writer, editor, and author of Drinkology, Drinkology Wine and his latest, Drinkology Beer. Join him during happy hour at the festival to learn about—and sample—some of his favorite beers.

6 p.m.: Johnny Mo "The Musical Chef" is the chef/owner of Mallards Restaurants, Catering & Entertainment located on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, lead guitarist and singer for the band Quadpod, and author of Rock The Kitchen. His newest cookbook and CD, Rock The Party, features fun recipes and original music.

7 p.m.: With See Mix Drink, Brian Murphy has compiled a cocktail book that offers instruction through info-graphics, so you can make the drinks you love at home.

Saturday

Noon: Husband-and-wife team Jon and Robin Robertson demonstrate how to make meatless, dairy-free, and egg-free recipes from their cookbooks, Vegan Fire and Spice and Vegan Unplugged: A Pantry Cuisine Cookbook and Survival Guide.

1:30 p.m.: Fr. Leo Patalinghug's book, Grace Before Meals: Recipes and Inspiration for Family Meals and Family Life, provides a blend of food, family, faith, and fun. This book showcases the best food for body, mind, and spirit.

3 p.m.: Food writer Maria Speck's passion for propelling Old World staples such as farro, barley, polenta, and wheat berries to the forefront of New American cooking is presented in Ancient Grains for Modern Meals. Speck draws on food traditions from across the Mediterranean and northern Europe to reveal how versatile, flavorful, and sophisticated whole grains can be.

4 p.m.: Sarah Huck and Jaimee Young are professional recipe developers, editors, and adventurers. Their book, Campfire Cookery: Adventuresome Recipes and Other Curiosities for the Great Outdoors, is a food and activity guide that helps readers of all ages rethink the possibilities of what can be savored over the oldest cooking tool known to man—the open flame.

5:30 p.m.: Food Network chef Daisy Martinez shows you how to bring your family together with everyday Latin dishes in Daisy: Morning, Noon and Night.

7 p.m.: One of television's fastest-rising personalities, Aaron McCargo Jr. won the fourth season of The Next Food Network Star and now stars in his own Food Network show, Big Daddy's House. In his new cookbook, Simply Done, Well Done, McCargo shares his passion for big, bold flavors and family cooking.

Sunday

Noon: The Broke Guy Stir Fry cookbook by Douglas Wilburn is for anyone who is tired of the same old fast food or ramen noodle routine. This is your opportunity to impress your friends with great meals while simultaneously mastering the most versatile piece of cookware on the planet—the wok.

1 p.m.: In The Vegan Slow Cooker, Kathy Hester shows you how to create nourishing cuisine in just two simple steps, using all the healthiest produce, whole grains, and vegan-friendly ingredients found at your local market or farm stand (or home garden).

2 p.m.: On her Food Network show, Mexican Made Easy, Marcela Valladolid shows how simple it is to create dishes bursting with Mexican flavors. With 100 make-at-home recipes and 80 color photographs, Mexican Made Easy: Everyday Ingredients, Extraordinary Flavor brings all of the fresh flavors of Marcela's popular show into your home.

3:30 p.m.: "Simple Cooking with Heart" is a new program of the American Heart Association focused on building healthier lives with a specific focus on improving nutrition. This session features heart-healthy tips and a cooking demonstration by chef Casey Jenkins of Darker Than Blue Café.

4:30 p.m.: From Washington Post food editor Joe Yonan, Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One is a celebration of eating solo, with more than 100 easy-to-follow and globally inspired recipes for the food-loving single.

5:30 p.m.: In The Casserole Queens Cookbook: Put Some Lovin' in Your Oven with 100 Easy One-Dish Recipes, Sandy Pollock and Crystal Cook share their updated, from-scratch recipes for traditional dishes. 

September, 16th 2011

Sunday's Tomato Festival

tomato festivalCalling all tomatoes—nicest, ugliest, and tastiest. The Manor Tavern in Monkton wants you for a neighborhood challenge at its first Tomato Festival.

The scenic property is the setting for the event from 1-5 p.m. on Sunday. There will be live music, children's activities, artisanal cheese producers, local wineries, and microbreweries.

Under new ownership, the longtime restaurant is beginning the next chapter of its history.