March, 30th 2010

Smalltimore in Sarasota

I escaped to sunny Florida over the weekend to watch the O’s play (and, yay, beat the Red Sox), soak up the rays, and eat lots of seafood. Grouper, stone crabs, red snapper. Bring it on.

And, given Baltimore’s interconnectedness, it’s probably no surprise that I ended up with a waiter who was originally from Baltimore. Meet Robert Parelhoff, McDonogh class of ’76. He’s livin’ the good life in Sarasota, he says.

I actually met Rob on my last trip about a year ago, and it was a coincidence that I ended up at his table again, eating a fat grouper sandwich and a half-dozen oysters. Rob is a server at Crab & Fin on St. Armands Circle, a shopping and restaurant destination across Sarasota Bay.

I always sit outside at Crab & Fin, so I can listen to the live piano music. It’s kitschy but fun. It’s also a great people-watching spot. (I once saw Jerry Springer walk by.) The piano player asked me where I was from, and Rob overheard me say Baltimore.

The next thing you know we were talking about the O’s and steamed crabs, which Rob says he always gets when he comes back here to visit his mother. Rob started in the hospitality industry many years ago at the Baltimore Hyatt Regency restaurant Pisces. Eventually, he transferred to Sarasota. He left the Hyatt but was hooked on his new state and stayed.

I also met a family of New Yorkers at Banana Cabana, a terrific Caribbean restaurant in nearby Bradenton Beach on Anna Maria Island. The curry ginger shrimp and cracked conch are truly terrific dishes. (It was also a favorite restaurant of Denzel Washington when he was filming the thriller Out of Time on the island in 2002.)

It’s the kind of friendly place where you start talking to your neighbors. It turns out that the teen in the family group is considering attending Hopkins and is heading to Baltimore soon. Once again, we’re talking about steamed crabs!

I imagine there will be more Baltimore interactions as the O’s become more ingrained in the community. I can’t wait until my next visit.

11:37 am Comment Count Tags: tidbits
March, 24th 2010

Don’t forget about Tavern 101

Tavern 101 in the new, green Fairfield Inn & Suites on President Street sounds like a great place to grab a bite to eat—inside and out. The courtyard is a cozy setting with a 32-foot lacrosse wall mural and a fire pit.

The menu ranges from burgers and wings to Maryland crab soup, crab cakes, and Old Bay-spiced shrimp. The executive chef is Levi Briggs, formerly of Corks in Federal Hill.

The hotel and tavern are built on the site of the former Baltimore Brewing Company, which was the home of DeGroen’s Beers for many years, according to Maureen McEnerney, who is part of the ownership group.

It makes sense that the restaurant would have happy-hour specials, too, from 3:30-7 p.m. on weekdays and 1:30-4:30 p.m. on weekends. There’s $5 valet parking. The phone number is 410-837-5000.

March, 24th 2010

Tapabar closed quietly

Tapabar in Little Italy never made a lot of noise on the culinary scene—unfortunately. Now, this small, corner restaurant on Eastern Avenue is closed.

I talked to co-owner Carolina Llaguno on the phone and she said that business had not been good. She sounded sad.

It’s hard to understand why the tiny space wasn’t able to hang on. The dining room was sleekly modern, and the tapas were creative. Just to name two: the parrilla Argentina (char-grilled steak with peppers, cod roe, chorizo, and chimichurri sauce) and the seafood paella were delicious.

It makes you wonder why some restaurants are more successful than others, especially as more tapas places are opening. Maybe it’s the location—or something I missed.

For now, adios, Carolina. I wish the best for your future.

10:34 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
March, 22nd 2010

The new Spro

Spro Coffee is now open in Hampden, as of Friday (March 19). I stopped by today to check it out and talked to owner Jay Caragay, who also operates the coffee bar at the county library in Towson.

It’s a small, charming, unadorned storefront with no Wi-Fi, no music, and no art, and that’s just the way Jay wants it. "I want people to focus on the coffee and concentrate on their friends," he says.

This isn’t your ordinary coffee bar. There are several different brew methods as well as coffees. There’s even a coffee roaster on staff. But it’s not intimidating. The baristas are friendly and helpful.

I asked Jay about his proximity to Common Ground, Hampden’s other coffee spot on The Avenue, just doors from his location. He says there’s room for both. "People will see a different approach," he says. "It’s not better or worse. It’s just different."

Spro doesn’t have a sign yet, so look for the gray-striped awning and address, 851 W. 36th St.—or maybe there won’t be a sign. "I want to remain as low-key as possible," Jay says.

When you do find the place, you don’t want to just savor the coffee. Tempting treats from Puffs & Pastries are available as well as a delicious-looking red-velvet cake made by Jay’s mom Marieta Caragay. It won a blue ribbon at the Maryland State Fair, I’m told.

And lifestyle editor Janelle, who writes our Talk Shop blog, is happy to see Mexican Coke on the menu, which her husband loves, she says.

The shop is open from 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat. and 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun. Phone is 410-243-1262.

12:39 pm Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 22nd 2010

Voltaggio James Beard finalist

The results for the James Beard Foundation finalists are being tweeted from the Palace Cafe in New Orleans.

This just in:

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic: Cathal Armstrong, Jeff Michaud, Peter Pastan, Michael Solomonov, Bryan Voltaggio

A complete list of finalists will be available at noon on the James Beard Foundation website.

Bryan, of course, is the chef/owner of Volt in Frederick and the Top Chef contestant who came in second after his brother Michael in the last season of the Bravo show. The Beard chef awards will be announced May 3 in New York City. Way to go, Bryan!

10:06 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, what's new
March, 20th 2010

Anthony Bourdain in Baltimore

It’s true! Anthony Bourdain— host of TV’s No Reservations, author of Kitchen Confidential, executive chef at New York’s Les Halles, and sometimes bad boy—will be at the Hippodrome Theatre on Saturday, May 22. He’ll be joined by his friend Eric Ripert, chef/co-owner of Le Barnardin in NYC.

This event, called the Hippodrome Foodie Experience, is going to be so much fun. Bourdain and Ripert will share insider stories about what really goes on behind the kitchen doors and take questions from the audience.

Afterward, guests can join the duo for a sampling from some of Baltimore’s top restaurants as well as tasting wine and spirits. The program starts at 8 p.m. The post-show reception will be 9:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m.

Prices start at $29 for the show. For $89, you get to see Bourdain on stage and go to the reception in the theater’s pavilion. There are also VIP tickets to meet Bourdain and Ripert.

Tickets go on sale Wednesday (March 24) at the Hippodrome box office, Ticketmaster locations, and online.

Photo courtesy of the Travel Channel

11:06 am Comment Count Tags: Uncategorized
March, 19th 2010

Centro opens tomorrow

Centro Tapas Bar in Federal Hill opens at 5 p.m. tomorrow (March 20). It joins a growing number of restaurants in town offering small plates. Chef/owner George Dailey, who grew up in Venezuela, will focus on Spanish and South American tapas.

George isn’t new to the food business. He’s been operating On the Hill in Bolton Hill for five years. "We always wanted to do this," says George, about Centro and referring to his wife Jessica. "We saw the Bicycle up for lease and fell in love with it."

(Former Bicycle owners Nick Batey and his wife Saundra now run Ullswater in South Baltimore.)

George and Jessica, a Baltimore native, met in Boston before relocating here. They now have a five-year-old son named Jack. "We wanted to move closer to family," George says.

Now that Jack is older, George was ready for the challenge of another restaurant. "I’m looking forward to being hands on and getting in there," he says. "It’s exciting. That’s a good word to describe it."

March, 19th 2010

No buyer yet for Brass Elephant

Looks like the reincarnation of Mount Vernon’s elegant Brass Elephant will have to wait a little longer. The potential buyer for the restaurant, which closed in August, backed out, according to the Baltimore Business Journal.

9:47 am Comment Count Tags: restaurants
March, 18th 2010

A fish fest like no other

Wegmans in Hunt Valley is going all out for a fish-friendly weekend, showcasing varieties rarely seen in the U.S. The store is flying in an array of fish from the famed Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, considered the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world.

Uni (sea urchin), taki (prepared octopus) and masago (sweet and spicy capelin roe) are just some of the items that will be featured. Chefs will also be giving sushi, sashimi, and nigiri demonstrations. And you can also learn about nabe pots, often used for making soups.

And it’s free! The event is being held from noon-7 p.m. tomorrow (March 19) and Saturday (March 20).

8:58 am Comment Count Tags: events
March, 17th 2010

The luck of the locavores

Happy St. Patrick’s Day. America’s oldest Irish pub, Patrick’s of Pratt Street, is adding another chapter to its storied past. Chef Zu Pinsker is introducing a new menu tomorrow (March 18), focusing on seasonal, fresh, and local fare.

"It’s going to be good, hearty food at reasonable prices," said Zu, who has been busy since the restaurant, established in 1847, reopened its doors last Sunday. Owners Patrick and Anne Rowley shut down Patrick’s for about 14 months while they opened an offshoot in Frederick. "We’re still alive and well," assured Patrick.

But today, the downtown pub will offer just what you’d expect on March 17: traditional Irish fare. Look for corned beef and cabbage (of course), steak and Guinness stew, potato-leek soup, and steak and Guinness pie among other dishes.

Zu, who worked at the restaurant before its temporary closing, is excited to be back. ""It has such a great history and feel to it," she said. "I’m just happy to get it up and open again."

March, 16th 2010

Star power at Milan

Actress Vivica A. Fox was at the new Milan restaurant yesterday, according to a tweet by chef Stephen Carey. She and a guest were enjoying small-plate specials during Monday’s happy hour, including fried lobster fritters, spinach dip, crispy polenta cakes, and lobster mac ’n’ cheese.

She also had a dirty martini with blue-cheese stuffed olives—and was wearing skinny jeans. She wears her food well! I was told she is performing in a play in D.C.

March, 16th 2010

Farmers’ Market news

The Baltimore Farmers’ Market and Bazaar will open an hour earlier this year, at 7 a.m., which should please all you early birds. I just got an e-mail from Carole Simon, manager of special projects for the Baltimore Office of Promotion and the Arts, who shared the update.

And, honestly, if you go to the Sunday market under the JFX viaduct, you need to get there early to get the best produce and avoid the masses, who gather as the morning progresses.

The seasonal city market starts May 2 and continues until Dec. 19 this year. Can’t wait.

9:14 am Comment Count Tags: what's new
March, 15th 2010

Volt’s Table 21 expands

The chef’s table at Volt in Frederick has to be one of the most coveted seats in town. Demand was so great that it was booked through 2010. Now, there’s room for more.

The table, which offers 21 courses to the lucky diners who shell out big bucks for the privilege of sitting in the kitchen, has been expanded to seat eight now, according to the restaurant’s blog. The reservations have changed, too. Diners can book Table 21 at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m. every night of the week.

Volt’s chef/owner Bryan Voltaggio may have come in second in Bravo’s Top Chef last season, but he’s got the magic touch. He’s also a 2010 James Beard Awards semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic along with Baltimore’s Spike Gjerde, chef/owner of Woodberry Kitchen among other chefs.

But the old Table 21, which sat four, isn’t gone, says Hilda Staples, Voltaggio’s business partner who pens the Volt blog. It will live to see another day, "somewhere, somehow," she writes.

10:59 am Comment Count Tags: chefs, restaurants
March, 12th 2010

Never too many crabs

Local crabs rule, of course. But McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant is showcasing a special menu from now until the end of April that tempts diners to "Discover America’s Crab!"

The à-la-carte choices include: California sushi roll with Dungeness crab, lobster ravioli with blue crab, crab cakes (Maryland style, pictured, $22.95)), 1 1/2-pound king-crab leg dinner, and a create-your-own crab surf and turf dinner (includes a 6-ounce filet mignon). Sounds like a great way to prepare our palates for our own steamed crabs, coming soon.

4:37 pm Comment Count Tags: restaurants
March, 10th 2010

Dangerously Delicious Pie Guy vs. Bobby Flay

Bobby Flay was in town yesterday (March 9) for another Throwdown show. You may remember that the Food Network cooking star was here not too long ago filming an episode with our local cooking priest Father Leo Patalinghug. This time, we find out that real men do eat quiche.

Here’s senior editor Evan Serpick’s experience at yesterday’s cook-off:

Late last week, Food Network producers asked me to come to Luckie’s Tavern on Tuesday morning for a new show they were filming called Rock n’ Kitchen, about chefs who also play in bands. They said they were doing a segment on Baltimore’s own Rodney Henry, the founder of Federal Hill’s Dangerously Delicious Pies who also plays in his own rockabilly band, the Glenmont Popes. It wasn’t entirely clear what my role would be—especially since my food expertise doesn’t go much further than Pepe’s vs. Papa John’s (totally Pepe’s, btw)—but it seemed to have more to do with my previous job as a music writer at Rolling Stone.

It seemed like an odd concept for a show—are there that many chefs who also play in bands?—but I checked on Luckie’s website, and there was a call for people interested in watching a taping of Rock ‘n Kitchen to come to Luckie’s at 9 on Tuesday morning.

When I got there, the place was filled with about 100 people, many of them heavily tattooed friends or fans of Rodney’s band. Also, there was Bobby Flay—my first clue that something was amiss. With all of the people and the production lights, it was pretty hot, but Flay and Henry were both working away on quiches: Flay’s had broccoli and jalapeños, while Henry’s "cowboy quiche" was filled with potatoes and bacon, among other ingredients, (he called it his "kitchen-sink quiche").

Finally, slices were passed around, and, I’m sorry to say, it was night and day: Flay’s quiche had a delicious, creamy texture and just the right amount of heat—I could’ve easily downed another slice or two. Rodney’s quiche wasn’t terrible—a bit bland with a more solid texture—but it truly suffered by comparison. To ask the assembled to try our local boy’s fare after giving them a taste of Flay’s masterpiece seemed downright unfair.

I was interviewed briefly about the Flay quiche—luckily, this was before I tried Rodney’s, so I didn’t have to compare them. Then, the crew began setting up for a judging table, including our local food celebrity Cindy Wolf. I was told that they might want to interview me again after the judging, but that it would likely be a while—maybe a couple hours—and at this point, I still wasn’t sure what show they were filming. I don’t watch the Food Network and I’ve never heard of Throwdown with Bobby Flay, but I’ve since learned that it’s a show where Flay faces off with local chefs. The network has since confirmed to me that that’s, in fact, what they were filming. In any case, I was full of quiche and way behind on work, so I left.

I’m not sure why all the subterfuge was necessary, but it was a great boon for Baltimore and for one of our more colorful local chefs.