New gastropub Of Love and Regret, located in Brewer’s Hill, opened in March and is a collaboration between Stillwater Artinsal Ale’s Brian Strumke and Ted Stelzenmuller of Jack’s Bistro. We just had to try the winning combo of local beer and food powerhouses.
Located across the street from the Natty Boh Tower, the space once housed by Canton Station has an unassuming black door that leads into the pub’s long, narrow bar and dining room. Gleaming dark woods, brick walls, and tables lit by candles in mason jars contribute to the hip atmosphere—very Pacific Northwest. This place gets the vibe right without trying too hard.
A long chalkboard to one end of the room lists the 23 beers on tap, which include Stillwater Artisanal brews, imports, and other local beers like Sublimation by Brewer’s Art. Ranging from $7-9 for a 12-ounce poor, this place is on the higher end for Baltimore pubs, but the crowded bar proves patrons are happy to pay the price. Another note: We asked to sample one of the beers, but were told we could only purchase 6-ounce pours if we wanted to try them. Offering samples would be a great way for patrons to experiment before deciding on a particular brew.
But, Of Love and Regret’s knowledgeable bar and wait staff, all clad in black, did help us navigate the long tap list. The Baltimore-brewed Oliver’s Channel Crossing v5 was a refreshing U.K.- and Belgian-inspired golden mild ale served in a goblet. The stronger Emelisse Holland Oats, brewed in the Netherlands, was a smooth amber with hints of toasted oats and applestroop.
For $18, select picks off of the draft list are available to share in a 36-ounce pitcher. As our waitress delivered the carafe of locally brewed Cellar Door, a white sage infused wheat beer, she described it as “a step up from Blue Moon.” A complex and unique mix of spices, it was, as my friend put it, an “elevator ride” from the grocery store Belgian-style witbier, and the perfect summer drink.
We also tried a couple of the pub’s signature cocktails, our favorite being their rendition of a Boris Karloff cocktail (gin, elderflower liqueur, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white) garnished with lime zest and black pepper. This gin fizz was executed perfectly, light and fruity with a foamy top.
Straying from drinks for a second, all of our food was delicious. Most unique, The Golden Burger, as the menu warns, actually is gold. Edible spray paint is used to achieve the effect, our waitress explained. (A full food review will appear in an upcoming issue).
We’ll be back soon to taste more of the constantly changing drafts, and maybe—if we dare—venture into the list of 30 bottles, which are separated into dry and crisp, sweet and sour, and strong and dark sections.
—Rebecca Kirkman, Baltimore magazine intern
[Image: courtesy of Of Love and Regret]